August 2008

Plenty of Fabric

Okay, I got a little carried away. There were so many pretty batik patterns I got a few more than I needed. It's okay. I ALWAYS can come up with ways to use them. I enjoyed making the treasure pouch so much I think I'll make a few to put in our store.

FREE Pattern of the Month

Each month we will offer a FREE special pattern. All you need to do to participate is complete the free registration. We invite everyone to complete the current Project of the Month and enter our monthly contest.

Each month there will be a drawing for a FREE Craft Kit. To participate you must be a registered user who has completed the FREE Pattern of the Month during the current month. Once completed, post a comment on the FREE Pattern of the Month page, with a link to photos of your completed project. (If you don't have a blog consider using Flickr or Photobucket). All comments and pictures need to be posted by 9pm EST on the last day of the month. We will then compile a list of members who completed the project and select a member at random. The winner will recieve a FREE Craft Kit and chance to entry again and again!

FREE Patterns

Coming soon!

We will be uploading some of our favorite patterns. Stayed tuned. In the meantime check out our Pattern of the Month Club.

Terms of Use

Thanks for your interest in Wee Folk Art. Please review our About Us and Licensing Agreement pages for more information about our terms of use.

Patterns shared on this site are available and free to use for your own personal use. We do have a Cottage Industry License for small businesses who would like to hand-make our patterns to sell.

We do not allow anyone to copy or reproduce our patterns, directions, or photos for any type of distribution, electronic or print without our consent.

Copyright © Wee Folk Art, LLC 2008-2012. All rights reserved. Please do not reproduce our text, images or patterns without prior written consent.

SHOP

We stock our store with a limited number of homemade goodies and craft kits. Quantities are limited and many of these items will be one of a kind.

Nubbie Doll

$14.00

These are an adorable first dolly or chew toy for babies based on an old fashion handkerchief doll. Nubbies have everything a baby loves; satin blanket binding to rub between their fingers, nubbie hands that are perfect for chewing on, a soft cotton flannel body for snuggling, and they are small enough to carry everywhere! Moms love them because they are machine wash and dryable, with a loop to attach to stroller, high chair or baby sling. Our 2 – 5 year olds have a basket full of them, and they still enjoy playing with them. They also look great when used instead of a bow on baby gifts. Homemade by Kim.

Your choice of Girl, Boy or Neutral colors.
Fabrics may vary from photo.

Color:


Nubbie Doll KIT
$8.00

Make your own Nubbie Doll.

Kit includes:
100% Cotton Flannel
Grosgrain Ribbon
Blanket Binding
Fiberfill
Directions
All you need is coordinating thread.

Your choice of Girl, Boy or Neutral colors.
Fabrics may vary from photo.

Color:

Completed Treasure Pouches

I just finished Bug's and Fairy's treasure pouches. The kids love them. It was fun creating designs to match their personal tastes and they really were quick to throw together. I will now work on a tutorial and will hopefully get it posted soon!

 

These will definitely be useful on their next walkabout!

 


August Pattern of the Month

Nuby Doll

 

Color:

size:


Felted Wool Marble Pattern
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If you love Wee Folk Art and have your own blog, why not share our site with your readers? Pick one of our spiffy buttons, copy it to your computer, upload to your site and provide a direct link back to Wee Folk Art or include us in your list of favorite websites. We love getting new readers and a link back to us is the nicest way to say "Thank You" for the free patterns we provide!
 


 

 

  


 

 

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2008 Wee Folk Art Club Patterns

Because I have nothing else to do

Today I was making a quick trip to my local craft store to buy crafting glue. I swear that is all I planned to buy. My pile of to do, already started, and near completion projects is stack precariously high in my sewing room. I’m well aware that one more project could topple the already shaky edifice. So, you have to believe that there were circumstances beyond my control, like a table of absolutely gorgeous prints that unfairly beckoned to me, causing my self control to vanish! I came home with corduroy and fabulous prints that will be made up into jumpers for Fairy and Pixie! Given everything else I have to do, I figure I’ll have to make these in my 1 a.m. to 4 a.m. time slot. Who needs sleep when there’s sewing to be done!

Material for Fairy's new fall jumper.

Material for Pixie's new Fall jumper.

Nubbie Doll Pattern

 


We created the Nubbie Doll with babies and mommies in mind. Nubbies have everything a baby loves; satin blanket binding to rub between their fingers, nubbie hands that are perfect for chewing on, and soft cotton flannel body for snuggling and they are small enough to carry everywhere! For moms we made them machine washable and dryer safe, and attached a loop to attach to stroller, high chair or baby sling. Our 2 - 5 year olds have a basket full of them, and they still enjoy playing with them. They also look great when used instead of a bow on baby gifts.

Directions for making Nubbie Dolls.

Material List:
16” x 16” square of light to medium weight flannel
16” contrasting blanket binding
12” grosgrain ribbon for tie
4” grosgrain ribbon for loop
Small amount of fiberfill

Cut one square of flannel 16” x 16”. Cut 1 piece of satin blanket binding 16” long. Cut one 12” grosgrain ribbon. Cut one 4” grosgrain ribbon for loop.

Pin blanket binding to lower edge of flannel square. Using a contrasting colored thread, sew close to the binding edge using a straight, zigzag or decorative stitch. Trim threads.

Turn a side edge 1/4 inch toward the wrong side. Steam iron it flat.

Turn this edge over another 1/4 inch to conceal all raw edges. Steam iron it flat. It helps to place 2 pins near the binding so it does not unroll.

Do steps 3 and 4 to the other side edge.

Fold the 4” piece of grosgrain ribbon in half. On either side edge, 3” from the bottom, place the folded ribbon in the seam so the 2 ends are tucked in the side edge, and the ribbon is perpendicular to the edge. Pin in place.

Sew 1 side edge near the inside edge. Do the same for the other side edge. Trim threads.

Turn the top edge over 1/4 inch toward the wrong side. Steam iron it flat.
 
Turn this edge over another 1/4 inch to conceal all raw edges. Steam iron it flat. It helps to pin the corners so they do not unroll.

Sew the top edge near the inside edge. Trim threads.

Turn down the top edge 4”. It doesn’t matter which way you turn it. Both ways look cute. See the completed pictures below to decide which way you would like to finish the doll. In the example the material is folded so the right sides are together. This means the doll’s head and bodice will be created from the wrong side of the fabric.
 
Find the center of the fold and place a marker thread. This spot will be the top of the dolls head and will be used to aid in the creation of the head.

Take some fiberfill, about the size of a baseball, and position it on the inside of the dolls head, making sure the marker thread remains on top.

Compress the fiberfill until it is ping pong ball size, making sure you keep the marker thread on top and the gathers are equally distributed around the doll’s body.

Using a double strand of thread the same color as the ribbon that will be tied around the doll’s neck, secure the fiberfill in the head by knotting thread and going through the neck. Tightly wind thread 5 times around the neck keeping gathers even and the thread marker on top of the head.

Tie off the thread in the middle of the back of the neck. DO NOT cut thread.
 
Mark the middle of the 12” grosgrain ribbon. Position the ribbon over the thread securing the neck matching the center of the ribbon with center of the back of the neck. Use the attached thread to securely attach the ribbon in place. DO NOT cut thread.
 
Turn doll over and tie ribbon in a bow. Clip ribbons on an angle to prevent fraying.

Bring the needle and thread through the dolls neck and secure bow so it cannot come untied. Clip thread and remove thread marker from doll’s head.

To make hands accordion pleat a corner. The more pleats you put in, the easier it will be to knot the hands.

Now tie a single knot near the end. It is rather bulk and will require some pulling to insure a small solid knot. Do the same to the other hand.
 
Completed dolls showing variations depending on how you fold the fabric in step 11.

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible! 

 www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.

Books

Mini Christmas Stocking

Whether you’re using these stockings for ornaments, gift wrapping, or silverware holders, they are simple to make and allow for tons of self expression. Use the main pattern for the stocking base and decorate with the shapes included. Or, express yourself and decorate to suit your fancy.
 
Supplies:
Assorted colors of felt
Embroidery floss and needle
Buttons and other doodads
Pattern
 
Directions:
  1. Copy pattern. Use the copy to cut out pattern pieces.
  2. Cut out 2 stocking patterns. For best results cut out the 2 pieces at the same time.

  3. Decide on a design for your stocking. Use one of the cut outs with your pattern or design your own. Cut out 2 designs from contrasting felt.
  4. Using the blanket stitch sew the 2 cutouts together. Use 3 strands of contrasting embroidery floss.
  5. Slip stitch completed cutout to front piece of stocking. Do not go all the way to the edges. You want it to maintain a 3-D look. The top part of the stocking will fold down and hide part of the stocking. When positioning your cutout, place it in a location that will look balanced after the stocking has been folded down. A blanket stitch will join the front of the stocking to the back so don’t place your cutout too close to the edges.

  6. Randomly place coordinating buttons on the stocking. Sew on using 6 strands of contrasting embroidery thread. You may wish to tie the buttons on leaving enough floss to tie a bow or know. When placing buttons, remember the top of the stocking will be folded down and a blanket stitch will join the front of the stocking to the back.
  7. Place the front of the stocking on the back stocking. Using 3 strands of embroidery floss blanket stitch the 2 pieces together, starting and ending at the fold line.
  8. Using a back stitch sew up the 2 side seams along stitching lines.
  9. Fold the cuff over along fold line.
  10. Using the blanket stitch finish the edge of the cuff.
  11. If using as an ornament make a finger chain from 6 strands of embroidery floss 6 inches long.
  12. Tack finger chain to stocking inside the cuff on the heel side of the stocking.

VARIATIONS

Retro Flower

 
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Copyright © KM Projects 2008. All rights reserved.

A Jumper with Panache!

So, I told myself I wasn’t going to start a new project until I finished a few ongoing ones. I didn’t listen. The new fabric I bought for the girls’ jumpers called to me. I got Fairy’s made up last night using Simplicity pattern 5936. Looking at it today I decided it needed a little panache. I loved the rolled roses I had seen on Portabellopixie’s website. I went to her tutorial and ta dah! Perfect! I’m going to have to wait a few days to get to Pixie’s, because we have a weekend guest that’s calling the sewing room home! Have to remember to warn him about wayward straight pins!

Felted Wool Marbles

To get more information and photos of this project, click HERE.

Recently, I’ve been totally obsessed with felting, especially knit felting. I’ve been making purses, bowls and various children’s toys. Every time I finished a skein, I’d roll the left over yarn into a small ball and put it in a jar. The grandbabies were fascinated with these balls. With all the other toys available to them, they were always asking for the jar of yarn balls. Then I had a Eureka moment. Why not felt the left over yarn balls and turn them into…well, felted balls? I’ve used roving to make balls, but this just seemed an ecologically sound way of using up what might otherwise turn into trash.

The kids loved them! When I was a young girl, we use to while away summer hours playing marbles. These wool balls make great marbles if you use them on a hard floor. Check out Land of Marbles to learn different marble games

They are easy to make and children will enjoy helping out.

 

1.      Loosely roll the yarn into a ball. Do not wind the yarn tight. It must be loose enough so there is room to agitate the fibers, causing felting. Tuck in the loose end or thread a yarn needle and weave the end into the ball. Balls should be around the size of a ping pong ball, but I’ve made smaller ones if I only had a small amount of yarn.

 

 

2.      The first felted balls I made were one color. I started embellishing them with other yarns wrapped around them, or using a yarn needle to create designs. Just remember to keep the yarns loose enough so you ball contracts when you give it a squeeze.

 

3.      The ball is now ready to felt. Thoroughly soak it in hot tap water. (The water should be hot but not too hot for your hands!) Squirt the ball with liquid dishwashing soap. This helps create the reaction that will felt the wool.

 

 

4.      Now the fun part! Begin squeezing the ball to cause agitation. If you’re making more than one at a time, you can do this first step with several balls. You will be squishing the balls out of shape, but try to keep them as spherical as possible.

 

5.      Continue agitating until the wool begins to felt. This will usually take between 5 and 10 minutes. Rewet the ball with hot water if it begins to feel like it is drying out. When the wool begins to felt, it will feel more solid. Also, when looking at the ball, the yarns will begin to have a “fuzzy” appearance. At this point you should only work one ball at a time.

 

 

6.      Roll the ball between the palms of your hands applying a lot of pressure. As you are doing this pay attention to the shape of the ball. The rolling action should create a round ball, but occasionally you may need to squeeze the ball into shape. Continue rolling the ball in your palms until the yarns become rigid and there is very little “squeeze” left.

 

 

7.      Rinse the ball in cold water until all the soap is removed. The cold water will help set the fibers in the yarn and maintain its felted shape.

 

 

8.      Check the ball to make sure it is very round. At this stage you can still roll it in your palm or squeeze it slightly to guarantee a perfectly, well almost perfectly, round ball.

 

9.      Allow the balls to dry completely before they are used. This will take 1 – 2 days.

 

 

10. Use the balls to play with, string together to make necklaces and bracelets, or as an intriguing decoration.

 

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!  

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.

 

Pixie's Panache Jumper Complete

          Our house guest has gone so I was able to get back in the sewing room and make Pixie's jumper. I made just a little change on the border location on the skirt, but I'm pleased with both of them! Unfortunately, this is doing nothing to squelch my anxiousness for Fall! It's still a tad bit warm for the girls to don corduroy, so I'll have to be patient for a few more weeks!

Fall Living Crafts Magazine

I'm very excited. Just got in my new copy of the fall Living Crafts magazine. Our friend, Tina, at Squirrel Acorns blog, introduced us to it last spring. The magazine premiered last winter, and yes, I did buy the back issue, and since that time I've devoured each issue. I have stopped dog earring crafts I want to make, because it seemed I was turning down every page! In this month's issue there are crowns and caps, acorns and pumpkins that are begging to be made. There is an especially adorable elf cap that I think I'll throw together for Pixie's September birthday, and cute gnome caps that I think will be a "must have" for our dress up chest! Also, I've wanted to make tree branch buttons, and the article about them in this issue is the inspiration I need to get on them. Anyway, if you haven't been introduced to the magazine as of yet, check it out!

Shhh... Don't Tell (Fall is Sneaking In)

Harvest Wreath

Last week we had a few days that gave us a taste of fall. They were cool days requiring long sleeves. The air was damp and in general I got the feeling that a hearty meal of Vegetable Beef Stew, Corn Bread and Hot Cider would soon be our meal of choice over our current Lite Grilled Chicken and Steamed Veggies from the garden.

The kids must have had the same feeling. As we entered the craft store their eyes lite up with excitement. HALLOWEEN was everywhere. The warm colors, the spicey scents and the "little bit spooky" fun.

I'm trying not to cross over yet. My October Project cd is still safely tucked away. I know we still have several more weeks of serious summer left. But just as the yard is looking spent, so was my Nature Wreath that hangs above the kids Nature Table. It needed some attention and so I gave in. A little splash of fall that makes me smile. I still have my summer Stars and Stripes up most places but the Nature Table is ready for the warmth of fall colors.

Not familiar with October Project? Something about their haunting music seems to make the perfect companion to a cool, damp fall night with a fire in the fire place.

Catalog

We stock our store with a limited number of homemade goodies and craft kits. Quantities are limited and many of these items will be one of a kind.

Nubbie Doll

$14.00

These are an adorable first dolly or chew toy for babies based on an old fashion handkerchief doll. Homemade by Kim.

Your choice of Girl, Boy or Neutral colors.
Fabrics may vary from photo.

Color:


Nubbie Doll KIT
$8.00

Make your own Nubbie Doll.

Kit includes:
100% Cotton Flannel
Grosgrain Ribbon
Blanket Binding
Fiberfill
Directions
All you need is coordinating thread.

Your choice of Girl, Boy or Neutral colors.
Fabrics may vary from photo.

Color:

Vintage Apron


Pixie has her second birthday coming up in September. She loves domestic play. Dolls are her life! She also loves tea parties, her kitchen set, playing in her doll house and Gammy’s gnome house. For her birthday, Tim and I bought her The Child’s Cleaning Set from Magic Cabin. So, naturally, I figured she needed an apron to enhance play. From my stash I pulled out some vintage fabric I’ve been waiting to use, and made her an apron any homemaker would be proud to wear! (BTW Fairy saw the completed apron and requested one for her birthday in October. Shocker!) Since I can’t have Pixie model the apron for me until her birthday, I found a tree that was willing to help me out! I believe the tree to be a little wider around the middle than Pixie, but you get the idea. Next up, a matching bandana! Hopefully, this evening, or certainly by Monday, I’ll include a free pattern. If you whip one up, be sure to share your finished product with us! 

 

  

Puppy in Progress

Knit Puppy Toy

I had been eyeing the book "Knitted Toys" by Zoe Mellor for some time. When the latest KnitPicks catalog came out they featured several toys made up from the book including the Floppy Dog done up in blue. It made me think of Blue's Clues and my 23mo old loves her Pickaboo Blue Book. So I finally got the book and the recommended yarn which is sooo soft. I have been knitting away while watching the Olympics the last few evenings. I'm almost done now with just the ears and tail to attach and the face to complete. The hardest part will be putting it away until Christmas. I'm letting Bug and Fairy each pick out one toy for Christmas too. It looks like I will be making a Robot and a Pink Snake as well.

Vintage Apron Directions

Back when I was a child, the half apron was all the rage. Although not as efficient as a full cobbler style apron, it did offer some protection, and the women made lovely aprons to wear while entertaining. These were also useful while cleaning, because they had extra pockets for storing wayward items! I made this apron for Pixie's birthday. Since her birthday isn't for another month, the tree modeled for me! (BTW I was having major setting problems with my camera. I think it's all been fixed so asap I'll get a second apron made with better pics!)

To get more information and photos of this project, click HERE and HERE

Sizes:

The pattern comes in two sizes; toddlers, which fits most children 2T - 4T and children, which fits most children 5 - 10.

Materials: 
     Toddlers:
          Main fabric: 3/4 yard
          Contrasting fabric: 3/8 yard
          Wide Rick Rack: 36"

     Children:
          Main fabric: 7/8 yard
          Contrasting fabric: 1/2 yard
          Wide Rick Rack: 40"
 

Cutting:

You will be cutting 6 pieces.

(1) skirt – main fabric

(1) pocket – main fabric

(1) wide rick rack

(1) waistband – contrasting fabric

(2) ties – contrasting fabric

 

Skirt:
     Toddler: Cut (1) 16" x 34"
     Children: Cut (1) 20" x 40"

 

Pocket:

     Toddler: Cut (1) 8" x 34"
     Children: Cut (1) 9" x 40"

 

Wide Rick Rack: 
     Toddler: Cut (1) 34"
     Children: Cut (1) 40"

 

Waistband and Ties:
     Toddler: Cut (3) 4 1/2" x 22"
     Children: Cut (3) 5 1/2" x 25"

  

Directions: Directions are for toddlers and children unless otherwise stated.

 

Pocket:

  1. 1) Turn under the top of the pocket ¼” toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold the “turned under” seam under another ¼” and press. This will hide the raw edges.

  2. 2) On the right side of the fabric pin and sew the wide rick rack to the top of the pocket.

  3. 3) Pin the wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the apron skirt lining up the raw edges of the bottoms and sides.

  4. 4) Treating the pocket and skirt as one piece turn under the bottom of the pocket and skirt 1/2” toward the wrong side of the apron. Press. Fold the “turned under” seam under another 1/2” and press. This will hide the raw edges and create the hem.

  5. 5) Remove pocket pins and carefully fold pocket to the wrong side of the skirt keeping the folded edge in place. (This will prevent you from sewing through the pocket while hemming the apron.) From the wrong side of the skirt pin the hem in place. Sew hem to wrong side of skirt close to the open edge.

  6. 6) Flip pocket back to the right side and pin sides.

  7. 7) Treating the pocket and skirt as one piece, turn under the sides of the skirt ¼” toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold the “turned under” seams under another ¼” and press. This will hide the raw edges. 
     

  8. 8) Sew the “turned under” seams close to the open edge. (Note: there will be several thicknesses of fabric on the pocket. You may need a heavy duty needle to get through the multiple layers of fabric.)

  9. 9) On the front of the skirt divide the pocket in quarters. (Fold in half to mark middle. Then fold each half toward the middle to find quarters.) Mark the middle and quarters and draw a line using a water soluble marker from the top of the pocket to the bottom of the hem.

  10. 10) Stitch along these 3 lines to create 4 pockets. Reinforce your stitching at the top of the pocket to make sure your pockets are securely attached to the skirt.

Waistband:

  1. 1) With right sides together, sew waistband to ties using 5/8” seam allowance. (We will refer to middle section as the waistband.) Press seams open.

  2. 2) Mark the center of the waistband. Then, for toddlers, make a mark 7 1/2" on either side of the center mark. For children, make a mark 9" on either side of the center mark. This will give you the placement of the apron skirt. There will now be 15" on the toddler's waistband and 18" on the children's waistband marked for skirt placement, which will be referred to as finished skirt width.

  3. 3) Fold the joined waistband and tie pieces in half lengthwise with right sides together. Pin in place. Leave open the finished skirt width you just marked plus 2” more on either side. (There will be a 19" opening on the toddler waistband and a 22" opening on the children's waistband.) 
     

  4. 4) You will want to create an angle on the tie ends. To do this, from each tie end place a mark on the raw edge 2 1/4” for toddlers and 2 3/4" for children from the tie end. Draw a line from the fold edge of the tie end to the mark. Cut along these lines. You should now have two angled ends.

  5. 5) Sew the two ties using 5/8” seam allowance. Start by sewing the angled section, pivot at the corner and sew until you reached the marked opening. Repeat for the other tie. 
     

  6. 6) Trim back seam allowance at points. Turn ties inside out and iron.

  7. 7) Turn under one side of the open section 5/8”. Iron.

Attaching Skirt to waistband:

1) Using a basting setting on your sewing machine, sew 2 gathering stitches ½” and ¼” from raw edge of skirt.
 

2) Gather the skirt to fit between the finished skirt edge marks.
 

3) Pin skirt with right sides together to unturned edge of the waistband between the finished skirt edge marks and sew in place.

4) Tuck the skirt edge into the waistband and pin the turned under edge of the waistband to the skirt.

5) To sew the waistband close, hand stitch the waistband closed using a blind stitch. Make sure to sew closed the extra 2 inches left open on either side of the finished skirt edge.

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!  
 

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.


 

Waiting for Inspiration


We went to visit my mom and dad yesterday. (Hereafter known as Nana and Papa.) My mom brought out two jumpers she bought for Pixie and Fairy. She got them at the senior center where she plays bridge. Seems the senior women’s club was running a fund raiser, and she scored these simple jumpers for $2.00 a piece! What a deal! Anyway, Michelle handed them off to me with a request to “cuten” them up. I’ll have to leave them lounging about for a bit to become inspired. The green and brown one screams nature and trees, while the light blue one seems to suggest romance and fancy. Hmmm…. 

Freezer Paper Leaf Shirts

Freezer Paper Leaf Shirts

This week's Unplugged Challenge theme was Trees. I had been wanting to try the Freezer Paper Stencil T-shirts for awhile now and leaves seemed like a fun inspiration for the design.

We started by going on a leaf scavenger hunt. Each of the kids gathered 5 leaves with completely different shapes. Once we had all our leaves we compared their shapes and colors. They each picked one leaf for their shirt design. I cut the freezer paper into 8.5"x11" sheets to fit in our printer.

Then we photo copied each leaf onto a sheet of freezer paper. I cut out the shapes and ironed them on the tee shirts.

I helped each of the kids stencil their shirt. We used a sponge style stencil brush and it was not the best for the project. I will try something else in the future. It left a bubble like texture in the paint. But in general the kids and I were pretty happy with our results. (Remember to put a piece of card board inside the shirt so the paint doesn't bleed through).

A couple days later the kids modeled their new shirts outside under the trees. Here they are trying to do a yoga 'Tree Pose.' Very cute!

Little Treasures

Just a little sunny shot of Fairy enjoying her Treasure Pouch. She used it today on our Annual Family Girl Trip. She got to tuck some wonderful treasures in it including a jar full of purple shoe shaped beads (not sure why she filled a whole jar with shoe shaped beads when there were hundreds to choose from but obviously she liked them).

BTW, her shirt is made from the Simplicity Pattern 9786 (not sure if it is current - I didn't see it on their site but it did look like it was floating around eBay).

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Vintage Apron Pattern

Finally had a chance to finish the vintage apron tutorial. Had a wee bit of trouble with my camera and the quality of the pictures leaves a little to be desired. I assumed my camera was broken. Tim assumed I hadn't read the manual. He was right! It's amazing the things you can learn in manuals! As it is, the pics are adequate, but the next time I make this apron, which will be for Fairy's birthday next month, I'll retake pictures. The apron can be whipped up in one child free afternoon!  

Vintage Cherry Half Apron

Back when I was a child, the half apron was all the rage. Although not as efficient as a full cobbler style apron, it did offer some protection, and the women made lovely aprons to wear while entertaining. These were also useful while cleaning, because they had extra pockets for storing wayward items! I made this apron for Pixie's birthday. Since her birthday isn't for another month, the tree modeled for me! (BTW I was having major setting problems with my camera. I think it's all been fixed so asap I'll get a second apron made with better pics!)

To get more information and photos of this project, click HERE and HERE .

Sizes:
The pattern comes in two sizes; toddlers, which fits most children 2T - 4T and children, which fits most children 5 - 10.

Materials:
Toddlers:
Main fabric: 3/4 yard
Contrasting fabric: 3/8 yard
Wide Rick Rack: 36"

Children:
Main fabric: 7/8 yard
Contrasting fabric: 1/2 yard
Wide Rick Rack: 40"

Cutting:
You will be cutting 6 pieces.
(1) skirt – main fabric
(1) pocket – main fabric
(1) wide rick rack
(1) waistband – contrasting fabric
(2) ties – contrasting fabric

Skirt:
Toddler: Cut (1) 16" x 34"
Children: Cut (1) 20" x 40"

Pocket:
Toddler: Cut (1) 8" x 34"
Children: Cut (1) 9" x 40"

Wide Rick Rack:
Toddler: Cut (1) 34"
Children: Cut (1) 40"

Waistband and Ties:
Toddler: Cut (3) 4 1/2" x 22"
Children: Cut (3) 5 1/2" x 25"

Directions: Directions are for toddlers and children unless otherwise stated.

Pocket:

  1. 1) Turn under the top of the pocket ¼” toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold the “turned under” seam under another ¼” and press. This will hide the raw edges.
  2. 2) On the right side of the fabric pin and sew the wide rick rack to the top of the pocket.
  3. 3) Pin the wrong side of the pocket to the right side of the apron skirt lining up the raw edges of the bottoms and sides.
  4. 4) Treating the pocket and skirt as one piece turn under the bottom of the pocket and skirt 1/2” toward the wrong side of the apron. Press. Fold the “turned under” seam under another 1/2” and press. This will hide the raw edges and create the hem.
  5. 5) Remove pocket pins and carefully fold pocket to the wrong side of the skirt keeping the folded edge in place. (This will prevent you from sewing through the pocket while hemming the apron.) From the wrong side of the skirt pin the hem in place. Sew hem to wrong side of skirt close to the open edge.


  6. 6) Flip pocket back to the right side and pin sides.


  7. 7) Treating the pocket and skirt as one piece, turn under the sides of the skirt ¼” toward the wrong side of the fabric. Press. Fold the “turned under” seams under another ¼” and press. This will hide the raw edges.
  8. 8) Sew the “turned under” seams close to the open edge. (Note: there will be several thicknesses of fabric on the pocket. You may need a heavy duty needle to get through the multiple layers of fabric.)
  9. 9) On the front of the skirt divide the pocket in quarters. (Fold in half to mark middle. Then fold each half toward the middle to find quarters.) Mark the middle and quarters and draw a line using a water soluble marker from the top of the pocket to the bottom of the hem.
  10. 10) Stitch along these 3 lines to create 4 pockets. Reinforce your stitching at the top of the pocket to make sure your pockets are securely attached to the skirt.

Waistband:

  1. 1) With right sides together, sew waistband to ties using 5/8” seam allowance. (We will refer to middle section as the waistband.) Press seams open.
  2. 2) Mark the center of the waistband. Then, for toddlers, make a mark 7 1/2" on either side of the center mark. For children, make a mark 9" on either side of the center mark. This will give you the placement of the apron skirt. There will now be 15" on the toddler's waistband and 18" on the children's waistband marked for skirt placement, which will be referred to as finished skirt width.
  3. 3) Fold the joined waistband and tie pieces in half lengthwise with right sides together. Pin in place. Leave open the finished skirt width you just marked plus 2” more on either side. (There will be a 19" opening on the toddler waistband and a 22" opening on the children's waistband.)
  4. 4) You will want to create an angle on the tie ends. To do this, from each tie end place a mark on the raw edge 2 1/4” for toddlers and 2 3/4" for children from the tie end. Draw a line from the fold edge of the tie end to the mark. Cut along these lines. You should now have two angled ends.
  5. 5) Sew the two ties using 5/8” seam allowance. Start by sewing the angled section, pivot at the corner and sew until you reached the marked opening. Repeat for the other tie.
  6. 6) Trim back seam allowance at points. Turn ties inside out and iron.
  7. 7) Turn under one side of the open section 5/8”. Iron.

Attaching Skirt to waistband:
1) Using a basting setting on your sewing machine, sew 2 gathering stitches ½” and ¼” from raw edge of skirt.

2) Gather the skirt to fit between the finished skirt edge marks.

3) Pin skirt with right sides together to unturned edge of the waistband between the finished skirt edge marks and sew in place.

4) Tuck the skirt edge into the waistband and pin the turned under edge of the waistband to the skirt.

5) To sew the waistband close, hand stitch the waistband closed using a blind stitch. Make sure to sew closed the extra 2 inches left open on either side of the finished skirt edge.

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.

Felting Wool Marbles

To get more information and photos of this project, click HERE.

Recently, I’ve been totally obsessed with felting, especially knit felting. I’ve been making purses, bowls and various children’s toys. Every time I finished a skein, I’d roll the left over yarn into a small ball and put it in a jar. The grandbabies were fascinated with these balls. With all the other toys available to them, they were always asking for the jar of yarn balls. Then I had a Eureka moment. Why not felt the left over yarn balls and turn them into…well, felted balls? I’ve used roving to make balls, but this just seemed an ecologically sound way of using up what might otherwise turn into trash.

The kids loved them! When I was a young girl, we use to while away summer hours playing marbles. These wool balls make great marbles if you use them on a hard floor. Check out Land of Marbles to learn different marble games

They are easy to make and children will enjoy helping out.

 

1. Loosely roll the yarn into a ball. Do not wind the yarn tight. It must be loose enough so there is room to agitate the fibers, causing felting. Tuck in the loose end or thread a yarn needle and weave the end into the ball. Balls should be around the size of a ping pong ball, but I’ve made smaller ones if I only had a small amount of yarn.

 

 

2. The first felted balls I made were one color. I started embellishing them with other yarns wrapped around them, or using a yarn needle to create designs. Just remember to keep the yarns loose enough so you ball contracts when you give it a squeeze.

 

3. The ball is now ready to felt. Thoroughly soak it in hot tap water. (The water should be hot but not too hot for your hands!) Squirt the ball with liquid dishwashing soap. This helps create the reaction that will felt the wool.

 

 

4. Now the fun part! Begin squeezing the ball to cause agitation. If you’re making more than one at a time, you can do this first step with several balls. You will be squishing the balls out of shape, but try to keep them as spherical as possible.

 

5. Continue agitating until the wool begins to felt. This will usually take between 5 and 10 minutes. Rewet the ball with hot water if it begins to feel like it is drying out. When the wool begins to felt, it will feel more solid. Also, when looking at the ball, the yarns will begin to have a “fuzzy” appearance. At this point you should only work one ball at a time.

 

 

6. Roll the ball between the palms of your hands applying a lot of pressure. As you are doing this pay attention to the shape of the ball. The rolling action should create a round ball, but occasionally you may need to squeeze the ball into shape. Continue rolling the ball in your palms until the yarns become rigid and there is very little “squeeze” left.

 

 

7. Rinse the ball in cold water until all the soap is removed. The cold water will help set the fibers in the yarn and maintain its felted shape.

 

 

8. Check the ball to make sure it is very round. At this stage you can still roll it in your palm or squeeze it slightly to guarantee a perfectly, well almost perfectly, round ball.

9. Allow the balls to dry completely before they are used. This will take 1 – 2 days.

 

 

10. Use the balls to play with, string together to make necklaces and bracelets, or as an intriguing decoration.

 

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.

Playing Marbles

Today we taught the kids a new marble game. It didn't take long before they were making up their own games! Pixie saw it as a new twist on "put and take"! Watching them play convinced me of one thing...we need more marbles! Fortunately, I'm working on a few projects right now that are giving me plenty of wool yarn scraps. If you'd like to make some of your own, check out the directions in our FREE patterns.

Coloring Capes


A couple days ago Bug asked me for some fabric. His Lego Knights needed capes. So we went to the scrape pile and pulled out some natural muslin and he set to work dressing them up.

I love it when the kids come to me with their own craft in mind. He knew what he wanted and proceeded to spend the rest of the morning making capes for all of his knights. What is a Knight without a Cape and Sword?

Turn A Square Cap


About this time each year, I begin to fill a basket with homemade Christmas gift items. While making them, I don't have a particular recipient in mind. They are usually things I can make in an evening or two, and ultimately they find their way into stockings or as a last minute gift for an unexpected visitor. There are hats and mittens, socks and small toys. I am always thrilled when I find a new gift basket contender. 

Last week I was checking out the brooklyntweed blog and came upon one of Jared's creations, a wonderfully shaped, quick knit cap. I'm in love with this pattern! I've already given a couple as gifts, but am starting to stockpile them. The hat's called Turn A Square and it is a totally fun design to knit...also pretty much a no brainer. After getting it started, I can easily let my thoughts run amuck! I would rate its difficulty at intermediate only because you need to use double pointed needles. I'm having fun dinking with colors and patterns. I will undoubtly play with the pattern a bit to scale down the size for my smallest gift receipents!

This weekend I'm going to help Tim's daughter learn to sew. She wants to make a messenger's bag. Ambitious lady!  Have a great weekend all!

 

A Pixie Peasant Skirt

Note: Tutorial for the peasant skirt can be found HERE.

It seems like lately everything I make for Pixie turns out too big and ends up in Fairy's possesion. I think, in part, this is a fear of making something too small with no one else to hand it down to, but it also has a lot to do with funky pattern sizing (I swear I follow the directions).

This weekend Pixie was wearing her "cutened up" jumper (mentioned previously) and multiple people commented that it looked like a potato sack. I thought it was time to try it on Fairy. Oh, the tears. I was quite literally taking the shirt off her back! I must say it did in fact fit Fairy much better... and actually looked kind of cute on her (it did look like a potato sack on Pixie), but we quickly gave it back to Pixie. Poor girl.

So yesterday I was determined to make Pixie something, anything, cute that fit! I threw aside all patterns...figuring I couldn't do any worse winging it! I rumaged around and came up with some scrapes that matched an Elf Hat I've been knitting for her.

A Peasant Skirt seemed like a great idea and definitely something I could just make on the fly. I managed to whip one up during nap time. The girls were up at the end, eagarly awaiting the finished product.

She was a very happy girl!

It wasn't until later that I realised all the scraps I grabbed were left over from her baby blanket. It really was the perfect fit for Pixie!

I am working on typing up the pattern. Actually, I have it typed up... I just need to test it on a couple different sizes. Look for it shortly.

Can't make a silk purse...


There's an old maxim...You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. I'd now like to start a new one...you can't make a drop dead gorgeous outfit out of a potato sack! When Michelle asked me to "cuten up" a couple of plain jumpers, I tried, I really tried! But the outcome was not one of my finest hours!

Couple of problems, really. First...fabric content. Both jumpers had obscene quantities of polyester. I'm just not a polyester kind of gal. I like working with natural fibers like cotton, wool, linen. Second, neither jumper fit the girls well. In the pictures, we slipped the jumpers over the girls' play clothes just to check for size. Fairy's fit fairly well, put Pixie's was...hmmm...let's just say she looked like an extra on the set of Annie! 

I actually liked the embellishments. Fairy's has a traditional Dresden Plate appliqued on her dress with an embroidered stem and curly leaves. Pixie's has a flower and leaves from felt, blanket stitched on, with a meandering embroidered stem. But the designs and jumpers just didn't play nicely together!

But, clothes are clothes, and the girls will wear the jumpers...perhaps not in public...but they will be used! And besides, Fairy and Pixie think they are beautiful! Yesterday Michelle mentioned how Pixie had a melt down when Michelle tried her dress on Fairy. So, big or not big, tacky or not tacky, the girls will wear their jumpers...proudly.  And, hey, they only cost $2.00 a piece!  

Froggie Fun

I just finished one of Pixie's Birthday gifts last night, a sack full of froggies!

I fell in love with some of the cute free Amigurumi toy patterns on the Lion Brand site, namely the frog. Of course they were all crocheted so I decided it was time to embrace the hook and give it a shot. I a am knitter by 'trade' and my crocheting has been limited to attaching a decorative edging to knit items. So this was my first fully crocheted project. The first frog turned out so cute that I decided to make a whole froggie family. I can't keep the older kiddos away from them... so I'm taking that as a good sign.

Not for girls only!

Looking at our blog to date, it seems we've offered very little for boys. Our apologies to all the wee men out there! Believe me, Bug has not been overlooked over the years, however, we've been rather fixated on girl projects the past few weeks. For all of you crafters out there with boys, thought we'd give you a rundown on some of our projects in the works. Over the next few weeks you can expect patterns for capes and tabards, scabbards and belts! Bug is anxiously awaiting his tabard...think that will be the first thing on the list!

Getting Hooked


It’s not a shocker that both Michelle and I would embrace the same craft at the same time. We seem to travel in pairs, so we’re exposed to the same things, at the same time. I happened to be born with a pair of knitting needles in my hand, which I’m sure made for an interesting delivery! But Grandma Pearl, my crafting muse, was a knitter, so it was a skill I learned early, and I adopted Grandma Pearl’s attitude that crocheting was a Johnny Come Lately craft that only people who couldn't handle two needles, were drawn to! (BTW...Grandma was a closet crocheter and could turn out a toilet roll cover with the best of them. She just viewed the craft as plebeian and chose not to share it with me!)

 

Lately, I’ve been seeing more and more things that are crocheted that I’d like to make, so sorry Grandma Pearl, I’ve taken up the hook! I picked up Debbie Stoller’s book, Stitch ‘N Bitch Crochet: The Happy Hooker, and what a hoot to read! She gives great directions and makes you smile at the same time. Sign of a good teacher! Anyway, I started out with a simple One-Skein Scarf. I made it with a super soft Comfort yarn by Berroco. Its fiber content is 50% super fine nylon and 50% super fine acrylic in variegated blue which will look great with jeans! I wound up using a smaller needle than they called for and made a couple extra rows, but I’m loving it! It goes together super quick, and I’ve now found another craft to throw into the ol’ Christmas gift basket!

Be safe and have a great holiday weekend all!

Peasant Skirt Directions

 

 

Please read all directions before starting. If you have any questions, please contact us at weefolkart@yahoo.com.

 

Unless otherwise stated, seams are 1/2 inch.

 

Before beginning make all necessary calculations to insure a proper fit.

 

Materials:

          Fabric: There are 4 tiers to this skirt. You may choose to use 1, 2, 3 or 4 different fabrics. For that reason we cannot give specific fabric requirements. Calculate the correct size and pick your fabrics.  Determine fabric needs based on your selections.

 

          Elastic: 1 inch wide elastic equal to your child’s waist.

 

          Thread: Matching or contrasting.

 

          Optional embellishments: Rick rack, lace, etc.

 

Cutting:

          Make the following calculations to determine correct cutting size. Round to the nearest 1/2 inch. You will need to cut two (2) for each tier.

 

          Body Width (BW): The largest measurement around your waist or hips.

          Total Length (TL): The length you want the skirt to be from waist to hem PLUS 7 inches. (Example: The desired length is 17”. The Total Length is 17 + 7 = 24”.)

 

          Tier A (cut 2):

                   Height: TL x 25% (TL x .25)

                   Width: BW x 80% (BW x .80)

 

          Tier B (cut 2):

                   Height: TL x 20% (TL x .20)

                   Width: BW x 100% (TL x 1)

 

          Tier C (cut 2):

                   Height: TL x 25% (TL x .25)

                   Width: BW x 120% (BW x 1.20)

 

          Tier D (cut 2)

                   Height: TL x 30% (TL x .30)

                   Width: BW x 140% (BW x 1.40)

 

Directions:

 

Skirt construction:

  1. Use the guide above to determine measurements for each tier. Round each number to the nearest 1/2 inch.

     

  2. Cut out all 8 pieces (2 for each tier.

  3. (Optional) Serge or finish the top and bottom edges of each piece to prevent fraying.

     

  4. With right sides together, stitch the side seams of each tier. You will now have 4 circles of fabric. Press seams open.

  5. Without backstitching, run a basting stitch (the longest stitch setting on your machine) along the top of tier B, C and D. This should be 3/8 inch from the edge.

  6. Gently pull the basting stitch to lightly gather the tier. Gather the tier enough so it is the same size as the tier above it. (Example: If tier A is 36 inches, gather the top of tier B so it is 36 inches.) Space gathers evenly around tier.

     

  7. Line up the bottom of tier A with the top of tier B, with right sides together.

     

  8. Pin the tiers together matching side seams.

     

  9. Stitch the two tiers together.

  10.  Iron the seam up. (Optional: You can use a fun decoration stitch or top stitch if you would like or add rick racks, ribbons, etc.)

  11. Repeat steps 7 – 10 with the additional two tiers; top of tier C to the bottom of tier B, the top of tier D to the bottom of tier C.

Waistband construction:

1.     Fold the top edge of tier A over 1 1/2 inches to the wrong side of the skirt. (Note: If you did not serge or finish the edges of your seams turn under and iron the top edge 1/4 inch. THEN fold the top edge of tier A over 1 1/2 inch. This will hide the raw edge on the waistband.)

 

2.     Iron and pin to hold the waistband in place.
 

3.     Stitch the waistband to the skirt 1/4 inch from open edge. Leave a 2 inch opening by a side seam (to later insert elastic). Be careful to maintain a full inch width in the waistband so your elastic will slide through nicely.

4.     Cut 1 inch wide elastic the child’s waist measurement. (You may need to cut it a little large if there is a big difference between waist and hip measurement. You may want to leave the elastic a little long and wait to cut it to size after you try it on your child.)
 

5.     Pin a safety pin to one end of the elastic. Thread your elastic through the waistband. (If you are sizing it on your child, do so now.)

6.     Overlap the elastic 1 inch so it lays flat (not like a side seam) and sew the edges together. Make a square (up, over, down, over) so the elastic will not give inside the waistband.

7.     Slide the elastic into the waistband and sew up the opening making sure not to sew through the elastic.

Hemming:

1.     Fold the bottom edge of tier D up 1/2 inch to the wrong side of the skirt. (Note: If you did not serge or finish the edges of your seams, turn under and iron the bottom edge 1/4 inch. THEN fold the bottom edge of tier D over 1/2 inch. This will hide the raw edge on the hem.)

2.     Iron and pin to hold the hem in place.
 

3.     Hem using a straight or decorative stitch.

Notes about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!  

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008. All rights reserved.