March 2009

The Vine Crooked House Pillow - Part 1

Early last week I shared a photo of The Crook House banner I made. In the next few weeks I will be sharing directions for making the three blocks and the banner. I thought it might be fun to show some other ways you could use these blocks. I have turned the first block, The Vine Crooked House into a 18" pillow. Today I am sharing the pattern and directions for making this first block. Later in the week I'll include the directions for making the pillow.

This pillow was made for Pixie and Fairy's room. There was some dispute over whose pillow it was, so I'll probably be making a second one soon! Check out the directions in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!

The Vine Crooked House Block Directions

Please Note: Throughout this project you will find many hints. They will help you complete the project.

Important: The pattern pieces DO NOT have a seam allowance included. You MUST add a 1/4” seam allowance BEFORE you cut out the pattern pieces.

Materials:
Fabric scraps – 5 colors, light to medium weight cotton or cotton blends
Felt scraps – white and second color (Note: If you plan to wash this project do not use wool felt as it will shrink and the color may bleed. Chose instead a high quality synthetic felt.)
Embroidery floss for quilting
Buttons – 1 for the doorknob, 1for the flower center, and 1 cat button for the window.
Eyelet Lace - for the flower head
Thread – for sewing machine or hand sewing
Pattern
(You will need a thin batting and backing but the size will depend on how you plan to finish the block. Wee Folk Art will include patterns for a pillow, a tote bag and a banner. Fabric and batting requirements necessary to complete those projects will be included in those patterns.)

Note: Because there are many little pieces in this pattern, exact measurements are necessary.

Directions:

Preparing the pattern:
1] Make copies of the pattern pieces. (Hint: It is helpful to print the pattern on card stock since these will be used as templates and the heavier weight will make it easier to trace.

2] Cut out the pattern pieces, your templates, carefully. You will use these to trace the pattern on your fabric.

Cutting out your fabric:
3] Turn your fabric so the wrong side is showing. Place templates right side down on the fabric for tracing. (You should be looking at the back of the fabric and the back of a template.)

4] Trace your template on the back of the fabric. Make sure you mark the fabric using a pencil or marker that is colorfast or especially designed to “disappear” over time, and does not show through to the front of the fabric. Make sure the template does not move. You want your trace to be accurate.

5] After you are done tracing a piece you MUST add a seam allowance. Traditionally, quilters use a 1/4" seam allowance. (Hint: Special tools are designed to make this easier. I use a Quilt Seam Guide which is a 12” long acrylic 1/4" square rod which you can lay along a seam and mark a perfect 1/4" seam. A must have for quilters!) Mark a 1/4" seam allowance on all edges. This will be used as your cutting line, and the template marks will be used as your stitching lines.

6] Cut out the pieces as follows:
Color A (sky) – 1, 3, 4, 10
Color B (house) – 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14
Color C (grass) – 15
Color D (roof) – 2
Color E (windows and door) – 6, 8, 13
White felt (cloud) - 16
Felt (flower center) - 17
Eyelet Lace - 8"

7] Following the Basic Layout in your pattern, layout the pieces.

 


Piecing the block – Refer to Basic Layout on Pattern
(Hint: When sewing the pieces together it is imperative to maintain accurate seams. I found this trick to work for me: (Refer to illustrations on your pattern.)
Step 1: Place right sides together. Begin at an outside corner. Stick a pin through the front fabric corner (illustration 1a) then make sure it goes exactly through the corner of the back fabric (illustration 1b).
Step 2: Do the same for the other corner. (illustration 2)
Step 3: When placing the rest of the pins, go through the seam line on the front fabric making sure it goes through the line on the back fabric. If necessary, gently ease the fabric to fit between the 2 corners. (illustration 3)
Step 4: When you sew the seam, start at the edge of the fabric, not the corner, and sew off the outer edge. (illustration 4)
This should help ensure accuracy throughout the piecing.)

Row 1:
8] With right sides together sew piece 1 to piece 2. (Note: There are circles with numbers in them on each template which indicates which pattern piece, or pieces, that seam is meant to attach to. (Note: the placement of the numbers does not necessarily line up with the actual pattern pieces. It's just used to denote which pieces should be touching.) 

9] Iron seam. (Note: When quilting, seams should not be ironed opened but rather ironed to one side together. This helps make the piece stronger.)

10] Attach to piece 3 and iron seam.

Row 2:
11] Sew pieces together as follows:
House Row 1:
5 to 6, 6 to 7, 7 to 8, 8 to 9. Press seams
House Row 2:
Piece 11 does not attach to anything at this point
House Row 3:
12 to 13, 13 to 14. Press seams

12] Sew House Row 1 to House Row 2, then House Row 2 to House Row 3. Press seams.

13] Sew pieces 4 and 10 to house. Press seams.

Row 3:
14] Row 3 is a single piece.

15] Sew Row 1 to Row 2 and Row 2 to Row 3. Press seams.

16] Your block is now pieced. It should measure 12 1/2" x 12 1/2".


Embellishments

Vine:
17] Using the pattern as a guide transfer the vine to the house. Embroider as follows:
Stem – stem stitch using 6 strands floss
Leaf – disconnected stem stitch using 6 strands floss
Flowers – lazy daisy stitch using 6 strands floss
Buds – French stitch using 6 strands floss


Flower:

18] Turn under both edges of eyelet lace 1/2" and iron.

19] Using a small running stitch close to the unfinished edge, sew across the top.

20] Pull thread tightly to gather lace. Tie off so the lace stays tightly gathered. Do not cut the thread. Using a blind stitch sew the 2 edges of the lace together to make a circle.

21] Using the pattern as a guide, stem stitch the stem using 6 strands of floss and add leaves using a detached chain stitch.

22] Using the pattern as a guide, place eyelet flower on stem with right side up. Place the round flower center on the flower, and position a button in the middle. Securely sew the button on going through the round flower center and the eyelet flower.

Cloud:
23] Using the pattern piece #3 as a guide, position the cloud in the sky and pin in place. Blanket stitch the cloud to the sky using 6 strands of floss.


Buttons:

The button on the door and the cat button will be sewn on after you have quilted your piece. Refer to pattern for placement.

Quilting the Block:
Decide on how you wish to finish your block. Wee Folk Art will have instructions for setting the Crooked House blocks in a pillow, a tote bag and a banner. You may decide to finish it in a different way. But the quilting of the block will remain the same. You will need your finished block, a thin batting (I use an organic cotton batting) and a backing. Exact sizes will vary depending on how you finish the block.

I have included an illustration of how I quilted my block, but the choice is yours. Because the block is “busy”, I wanted my quilting to be subtle. To quilt I used 3 strands of floss in colors that matched my material. This gave the block dimension without creating extra detail. But have fun with your choices and make it uniquely your own!

CAUTION: If you are making this for a child under 3 years old, do not use buttons. They are a choke hazard. Instead, embroider or appliqué the doorknob, flower center and cat.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

 

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008-2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

Tree Stump Applique Block

 
 

Well, it finally happened... I've begun to yearn for spring. And, of course, with spring comes flowers! My mind has been meandering through the woods and my gardens. So, after designing the tree stump, I needed to surround it with flowers! While going through various embroidery stitches, I came upon a woven spider's wheel stitch that is new to me. I'm in love with this stitch. If you "weave" it enough, it takes on a lovely 3 dimensional look. It has the look of a tightly packed peony or rose. Very cute and tons of fun to make! (I'm sure you'll be seeing a lot more of this stitch!)

If you haven't checked it out lately, Michelle has been adding stitches to our glossary. Our glossary is NOT a how-to, per se, but rather a pictorial representation of the stitches. I love the large illustrations she has been doing. So hopefully in the future, when we introduce a new stitch, it will be available in our glossary.

Hope you like our new applique and find many uses for it. As always, it was designed on a 6" x 6" block but can be enlarged or reduced to meet your needs. The pattern is available in our FREE Applique Data Base and you can get it here. Enjoy!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

The Vine Crooked House Pillow Directions

This pillow is made using The Vine Crooked House Block, but it can be used with any 12 1/2" center block. This is a pillow cover that is Velcroed together and can be taken off the pillow form for washing purposes.

Materials:
1 – 12 1/2" center block (The Vine Crooked House is used for this pillow.)
30” of 44” fabric for back and outside border
6” fabric for thin border
22” square thin batting (I used organic cotton)
22” muslin or light scrap fabric for backing (will be inside the pillow and not seen)
18” square pillow form
Sewing machine thread
18” – 3/4" Velcro (both loops and hooks)
Pattern for layout

Please Note: 1/2" seam allowance used throughout this project

Directions:

Cutting out fabric:
1] Cut out fabric as described below:
Back and outside border
1 – 12 ½” x 19 1/2"
1 – 12” x 19 1/2"
2 – 3 1/2" x 14 1/2"
2 3 1/2" x 19 1/2"
Thin border
2 – 2” x 12 1/2"
2 – 2” x 14 1/2"
Batting
1 – 22” x 22”
Quilt Backing
1 – 22” x 22”

Piecing Top:
2] Sew the two 2” x 12 1/2” thin border pieces to the two sides of your center block piece. Press seams open.

3] Sew the two 2” x 14 1/2" thin border pieces to the top and bottom of your center block piece. Press seams open.

4] Sew the two 3 1/2" x 14 1/2" wide border pieces to the two sides of your block. Press seams.

5] Sew the two 3 1/2" x 19 1/2” wider border pieces to the top and bottom of your block. Press seams.


Quilting Top:
(Quilt the pillow top as desired or follow the suggestions below.)
6] Lay out the quilt backing. Place the batting on top of it. Then place the finished front on top of the batting, right side showing.

7] Pin in place before quilting.

8] Quilt your center block piece. (Refer to The Crooked Vine Block for suggestions on how to quilt that piece.)

9] Quilt a 1/4" away from the seam that attaches the thin border thecenter block and the thin border to the wide border.

10] Add buttons or other embellishments now.

11] Trim away excess backing and batting.

Pillow Back:
12] Fold a 19 1/2” edge of one of the pillow back pieces under 2” to the wrong side and iron. Do the same for the other back piece.

13] On one of the pillow back pieces, position the Velcro loops 1/4" from a folded edge. This should be on the back of the fabric. Sew close to the Velcro edge around all 4 sides of the Velcro.

14] On the other pillow back piece, position the Velcro hooks 1/4" from the folded edge. This should be on the frong of the fabric. Sew close to the Velcro edge around all 4 sides of the Velcro.

15] Carefully attach the 2 sides by sticking the Velcro together. Your pillow back should measure exactly 19 1/2" x 19 1/2". Reposition the Velcro pieces if necessary until you achieve the 19 1/2" square.

16] With right sides together, pin the pillow back to the pillow front. Sew the 4 edges. Turn the pillow right side out.

17] Insert the 18” pillow form and Velcro shut.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

 

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008-2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.
 

The Vine Crooked House Pillow

The pattern for turning our 12 1/2" Vine Crooked House Block into a pillow is done and available in FREE Open Patterns. Although I'm using the Vine Crooked House Block to complete this pillow, you could substitute any other block of your design, as long as the finished measurement of the block is 12 1/2". Just a little note... I made this for the girl's room, but Pixie has called dibs on it already. She refuses to sleep without it and it has become her pillow of choice. I now wish that I didn't use buttons but instead had embroidered the cat in the window and the center of the flower. Just something you might want to consider if is going to be used for sleeping. Check out the pattern here. Enjoy!

The Crooked Bush House Block

 

Please Note: Throughout this project you will find many hints. They will help you complete the project.
 
Important: The pattern pieces DO NOT have a seam allowance included. You MUST add a 1/4” seam allowance BEFORE you cut out the pattern pieces.
 
Materials:
Fabric scraps – 5 colors, light to medium weight cotton or cotton blends
Felt scraps – white and green (Note: If you plan to wash this project do not use wool felt as it will shrink and the color may bleed. Chose instead a high quality synthetic felt.)
Embroidery floss for quilting
Buttons – 1 for the doorknob, 1 cat button, 2 1 1/4” for front straps, and buttons for the roof (I used 5 star buttons but use any buttons you find pleasing!)
Thread – for sewing machine or hand sewing
Pattern
(You will need a thin batting and backing but the size will depend on how you plan to finish the block. Wee Folk Art will include patterns for a pillow, a tote bag and a banner. Fabric and batting requirements necessary to complete those projects will be included in those patterns.)
 
Note: You will be using The Crooked Vine House Block instructions for making this block, however, MAKE SURE TO USE THIS PATTERN, LINKED TO ON THIS PAGE! Because the instructions are almost identical (changes are listed below in green) you can use the previously posted instructions for The Vine Crooked House to construct The Bush Crooked House Pattern. 
 

IMPORTANT: Refer to The Crooked Vine House Block for general directions for Preparing the Pattern, Cutting out your Fabric and Piecing the Block with the following exceptions:
 
Preparing the Pattern – Step 6
Cut out the pieces as follows:
     Color A (sky) – 1, 3, 4, 10
     Color B (house) – 5, 7, 9, 11, 12, 14
     Color C (grass) – 15
     Color D (roof) – 2
     Color E (windows and door) – 6, 8, 13
     White felt (cloud) – 16
     Green felt (bush) – 17
 
Piecing the block – Row 1 – Steps 7, 9, and 15.
(In steps 7 and 9 the order of how you attach the pieces is different.
7] With right sides together sew piece 3 to piece 2. (Note: There are circles with numbers in them on each template which indicates which pattern piece, or pieces, that seam is meant to attach to.
9] Attach to piece 1 and iron seam.
 
Continue piecing the block together following steps 10 – 14
 
15] When you have finished your block, trim your block so it measures 12 1/2" x 12 1/2". (You will be cutting away approximately 1/2” around the entire block. This allows for slight imperfections while piecing the block together.) 


 
AFTER USING THE VINE HOUSE INSTRUCTIONS FOR PIECING THE BUSH HOUSE, RETURN HERE FOR INSTRUCTIONS TO FINISH THE BUSH HOUSE. 

 
Bush:
16] Using the pattern as a guide, embroider the bush as follows:
    Flowers – lazy daisy stitch using 6 strands floss
     Buds – French stitch using 6 strands floss
17] Using the pattern as a guide, position the bush and pin in place. Blanket stitch the bush to the house using 6 strands of floss.

 

Cloud:
18] Because the cloud over extends the block, you will need to wait until you have added borders before you applique your cloud on.
 
Buttons:
All buttons will be sewn on after you have finished quilting. Refer to pattern for placement.
 
Quilting the Block:
Decide on how you wish to finish your block. Wee Folk Art has instructions for setting the Crooked House blocks in a pillow, a tote bag and a banner. You may decide to finish it in a different way. But the quilting of the block will remain the same. You will need your finished block, a thin batting (I use an organic cotton batting) and a backing. Exact sizes will vary depending on how you finish the block.
 
I have included an illustration of how I quilted my block, but the choice is yours. Because the block is “busy”, I wanted my quilting to be subtle. To quilt I used 3 strands of floss in colors that matched my material. This gave the block dimension without creating extra detail. But have fun with your choices and make it uniquely your own!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

The Crooked Bush House Tote Bag - Part 1

Over the weekend I finished the second project using a block from The Crooked House Banner. I'm not sure pictures do this justice, but I LOVE IT! This is so me. Green and red are my favorite colors and this tote has such a rich, warm feel to it. Often when I make something, I give it away. Not this puppy! I'll tuck my latest take-along project in it, and when not in use, I'll hang it on a hook in my family room for decoration.

Just like last week's pillow, you can use any complete 12 1/2" square in the center of the tote bag. Today, I'm including the directions for making The Crooked Bush House Block. Since the assembly is virtually the same as The Crooked Vine House Block, I've referenced those directions and just included the changes in these directions. Later in the week I'll provide instructions for making the tote bag. In the mean time, I'm including some close ups of some the the bag's detail. If you're interested in making the bag, start with the center block. The directions are available in the FREE Open Pattern section. Enjoy!

EDIT: With a number of other projects in the works, I haven't gotten around to writing up the directions for the tote bag yet. I EVENTUALLY will. Sorry if you're waiting on them!

Walking Bunny Finger Puppets

9” x 18” piece of felt
Scrap felt for heart
Embroidery floss
15” of 3/8” grosgrain ribbon
Stuffing – Polyfil or wool
 
1] Make copy of pattern.
 
2] Cut out felt as follows:
     2 – full bodies
     1 – leg piece (this will be used for putting fingers into)
     1 heart
3] Embroider face as follows:
     Eyes – Woven Spider Wheel – 6 strands
     Whiskers – Stem Stitch – 6 strands
     Nose – Satin Stitch – 6 strands
     Lips – Stem Stitch – 6 strands
4] Using 6 strands of floss, blanket stitch across the upper edge of the leg piece.
5] Using the pattern as a guide, attach heart to the bunny front using 3 strands of floss and a running stitch.
6] To stitch the bunny together, the 3 body pieces should be stacked in the following manner:
     Bunny front with right side out
     Bunny back
     Bunny legs with right side out
 
7] Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch the front, back and legs together. Leave one arm open for stuffing.
8] Stuff the bunny. Lightly stuff the legs. (Note: When the bunny is done you will need to slide your fingers down the bunny’s legs and if you overstuff the legs there won’t be room for fingers!)
9] Finishing stitching the arm, filling it with stuffing as you go along.
10] Tie a bow and clip the ends on an angle. If you would like the bow to be permanent, using matching floss to tack the bow through the knot, preventing it from coming untied.

11] Slide your fingers down the bunny’s legs and take it for a walk!  

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

  

Walking Felt Bunny Finger Puppet

Time flies! Seems we were just rushing to finish a few Christmas stocking stuffers, and now it's time to get a few "tuck-ins" made for the Easter basket! I have 3 or 4 little gifts I'll be whipping up. Today I'd like to share a trio of cuties I made for the grandbabies. These three were a breeze to throw together and with the little addition of a pocket on the back for 2 fingers to slide in, these little puppets will provide hours of imaginative fun!

I used wool felt for durability, although if you're concerned about wash-ability, go with one of the high quality synthetics. You can also make this out of cotton. I love the Woven Spider Wheel stitch for the eyes. (I told you I'd be using this stitch a lot! Check out the glossary for a quick look at how to make this stitch.) Because there are no buttons on this, it's a perfect friend for all ages.

So, sew one or a basket full. I should warn you, they are rather addictive and satisfying to make! The pattern is featured in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!

Beehive Applique Block

 


Last week Tiptoe Mom requested an applique of a beehive, so tah dah, here it is. It is my plan to add at least 1 applique a week to the blog, hopefully building an impressive collection for many different crafters. If there is an applique you would like to see included... sooner rather than later... just leave us a comment or email us and we'll gladly give it a try.

In the meantime, here is our beehive with 3 very busy bees. Of course it would also be cute to add bumble bee buttons instead of the felt ones. And, you can always use woven fabric instead of the felt. If you do, add 1/4" around the outside of the design before cutting out the fabric. You will then be able to turn under the fabric before appliqueing it to your project.

This applique was designed for a 6" x 6" block but can be reduced or enlarged to meet your needs. The pattern is available here. Enjoy!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

Felted Eggs Directions

Materials:
Wool roving - I used Alpaca wool roving
Form – real, plastic, styroform, or wooden eggs
Dish soap
Agitator – wash board, sushi mat, or griddle (optional)
 
1] Prepare a bowl of hot, soapy water. I use 1/4 cup of dish soap to 2 – 3 cups of water.
 
2] Begin by loosely wrapping 4 – 5 layers of batting around egg form. The secret is to get the roving evenly spread over the form.
 
3] Dunk the egg in the bowl of soapy water. (Throughout the felting process, periodically dip your egg back in the soapy water.)
 
4] Begin by slowly squeezing the egg while retaining the egg shape. In the beginning you need to be gentle so you do not slide the roving off the egg. I find gently squeeze while turning the egg works fine. Caution: If using a snap together plastic egg or real egg, be careful not to squeeze too hard.
 
5] After about 5 minutes the feel of the fibers will change. The surface becomes more rigid and you can now become more aggressive with the felting.
 
6] You can continue to felt by rolling and squeezing the egg or to speed things up you can rub the egg against your agitating surface. Remember to turn egg for a consistent felting.
 
7] When the roving has transformed into a dense felt, stop.
 
8] Thoroughly rinse the egg until all soap is removed.
 
9] Roll the egg in a towel to remove access water.
 
10] Set the egg on a rack and allow to dry completely. Depending on weather this can take several hours to a couple of days.
 
11] You can either leave the form in the egg or remove the form. If you would like to remove the form, cut the egg open using sharp scissors or an Exacto knife. This can either be a straight cut or zigzag to represent a cracked shell.
 
12] You can leave the edge as is or if you prefer, you can use 6 strands of embroidery floss and blanket stitch the edge. This is desirable if the eggs are going to be played with. It helps prevent the edge from fraying.
 
Variations:
*At step 2 you can mix different colors together. If you mix colors, make sure all colors are visible. If you bury a color so you can’t see, it won’t be visible after felting.
*At step 2 you can wrap 100% felting yarn around the egg to create a design. The yarn will move around so your finished design will be fairly random.
*After the egg is dried you can embroider on the egg adding a design or words.
*After the egg is dried you can needle felt a design on the egg.
*When you are all done you can stuff the egg shell with felted chicks, stickers or a felt fried egg. (Directions for felt fried eggs and bacon will be available in our FREE Patterns.)
Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

 

Felted Eggs

 

This week I have a few "eggstravagant" crafts to share that can be tucked in an Easter basket or added to the play kitchen. We'll begin with a felted egg. Basically, wrap roving around a form, add warm water, soap and agitation and tah dah, you've got yourself a felted egg. More detailed directions can be found in our FREE Open Patterns. I used a plastic egg to make one egg, but since I wanted to make a few, and I only had one plastic egg, I used real eggs. Fortunately, I buy organic eggs that are tough shelled, and they worked great. After I finished felting the egg and rinsing it, I was concerned about leaving them unrefrigerated to dry. So... I popped them in cold water, and boiled them for twenty minutes, and I had hard boiled eggs. Later in the day, when the eggs were dried, I had my felted eggs and a delicious egg salad sandwich!

The directions for The Felted Eggs has suggestions for other uses for the eggs including stuffing them with various prizes, or stuffing them with additional roving, and sewing them up. Later in the week I'll share a different method for making painted felt eggs, and the pattern for fried eggs and bacon toy food. Enjoy!

Felt Fried Eggs and Bacon

It's egg week. Next up... Fried Eggs and Bacon. What could be more fun than some yummy eggs and bacon in your child's play kitchen? (Well, maybe toast and jam, but that will be featured in another blog.) These are easy to make and fast. I'm talking nap time fast! To make play more fun, make a Felted Egg in white or brown, and "stuff" the fried egg inside. Then, children can "crack" the egg open, and fry it up in a pan! This pattern is available in the FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!  

Felt Fried Eggs and Bacon Directions

Materials:
     eggs
          white felt
          yellow felt
          embroidery floss
          stuffing
     bacon
          brown felt
          beige felt
          6 1/2" pipe cleaner
          embroidery floss
     Pattern

Directions:

Eggs:
1] Copy pattern and cut out 2 whites and 1 yolk for each egg. (Two different eggs are featured.)

2] Position yolk and blanket stitch around 3/4 of the yolk using 3 strands of embroidery floss. Stuff the yolk so it creates a mound without pulling up the sides of the whites. Blanket stitch around the remainder of the yolk.

3] Pin the top of the egg to the bottom of the egg. Pin in place. Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch the 2 pieces together.

Bacon:
1] Copy pattern and cut out 2 rectangular "meat" strips and 2 "fat" strips for each piece of bacon.

2] Position 1 piece of fat down the center of 1 rectangular meat strip. Refer to the pattern and using a running stitch and 3 strands of floss, attach the fat. Do the same to the other piece.

3] Turn one piece of bacon over. Place the pipe cleaner down the center of the rectangle making sure it is also centered length wise. Whip stitch the pipe cleaner to the bacon, making sure your stitches do not go all the way through to the front side.

4] Put the wrong sides of the bacon together and pin in place. Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch around all four edges of the bacon.

5} Crinkle the bacon by bending the pipe cleaners to give a realistic look to the bacon.

 
Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

Fried Egg Block Applique


In the realm of "why the heck not?" I'm including a Fried Egg Applique Block, because... you never know when you might need one??? Anyway, since there are eggs all over the place this week, I decided I may as well include one in our FREE Applique Database. If you are new to embroidery or appliqueing, you just can't get an easier project then this. As always this was designed for a 6" x 6" block but you can enlarge or reduce its size to meet your needs.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

Our House Applique Block


As a young woman back in the 70s, Crosby Stills Nash and Young were one of my favs. And "Our House" was one of my all time favorite songs. Every time I hear this song I'm back on the campus at Michigan State University. Today's Our House Applique Block is a tribute to that song and that time in my life. Hmmm... note to self... a whole collection of applique blocks dedicated to my youth... Joni MItchell's Big Yellow Taxi, Neil Diamond's Cherry Cherry, John Denver's Sunshine on My Shoulders. Wonder what I could do for Queen's Bohemian Rhapsody? Ah, but I digress... back to today's applique block!

To quote the song..."Our House, is a very, very very fine house, with 2 cats in the yard, life use to be so hard, but everything is easy cuz of you..." this block depicts a house full of life and love. From the 2 cats in the yard to flowers on the sill. I made it for our 6" x 6" blocks but it can be changed to meet your needs. Also, you can use a cotton fabric. Simply add 1/4" to all edges, turn the edges under, and use the stitches provided or a simple blind stitch. The pattern is available in the FREE Applique Data Base. Enjoy! 

(BTW... The version of Our House I found on You Tube is Crosby Stills and Nash now... but their harmony still remains, and although they may have aged, I'm still 19 years old when I listen to it!)

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
 
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

Praising the Shank

In the mid 70s I was in college majoring in Home Economics. No, actually, Michigan State University was on the cutting edge, and it was no longer called Home Economics but rather Human Ecology. They prided themselves on NOT being a college content with simply teaching “stitchin’ and stirrin’” but instead asked you to question the value of baking a loaf of bread, over buying a loaf of bread. Not that they didn’t teach you how to bake bread, they just wanted you to be sure that you considered the components like cost, time, nutrition, taste, etc. before embarking on the actual act of baking bread. In another words… to be more philosophical about homemaking. (A bit of an aside... Perhaps as a sign of the times, this past year Michigan State closed their College of Human Ecology. The building is gone and a parking structure has taken its place. A small tear was shed!)

Still, we learned many things about being efficient, capable and creative. When I look back on it now, I suppose many things were rather antiquated. I remember a rite of passage in textiles was being able to set in a gusset! Uh, how many of you even know what a gusset is much less ever found the need to set one in? FYI… a gusset is a diamond shaped piece of fabric placed in the underarm of a garment to allow greater ease of movement and less likelihood of ripping underarm seams. You can still find them in some high end clothes. Often rugby shirts will have gussets. So, now you know! But there were many wonderful things I learned that I continue to use on a daily basis.

Today, I want to share how to make a “shank”. I’m not talking about a cut of meat, but rather an extension on the back of a button that holds the button away from the garment. These are especially helpful when you are working with thick fabrics. Creating a shank also makes the button much stronger and is great to use on buttons that receive a lot of stress, like on a waistband. (I use a shank on almost every button I sew on unless it’s being used for decorative purposes only.) Some buttons have shanks built in. These are often used on decorative buttons so there are no button holes on the surface of the button or on coats where the materials used are quite thick.

BTW… I didn’t wake up this morning with a burning desire to teach the world how to make a shank. The next project I’m sharing calls for a shank. I thought I’d add a “how to” make a shank before the other directions come out. Okay, this isn’t “cutesy” or romantic, and it’s not a project in and of itself, BUT I think once you sew a button on using a shank, you may never sew one on flat again! Maybe this is more than you ever wanted to know about shanks, but if you’re interested in learning the technique, check it out in our FREE Open Patterns.

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Making a Button Shank

A shank is a metal, plastic or thread column used to hold a button away from an item, making the button loose and easier to button. It also strengthens the button making it a great choice for buttons that take a lot of stress, like at a waistline. This is directions for creating your own shank on a flat button.

1] Using 2 strands of floss or thread bring the needle up through the material where you want your button positioned.

2] Make 1 small secure stitch.

3] Position the button in place. Place 1,2 or 3 toothpicks over the button. (This depends on how long you want your shank. The thicker the material you are using, the longer you want your shank.

4] Sew the button in place going over the toothpicks on top of the button.

5] When the button is secured DO NOT cut the thread. Remove the toothpicks.

6] Position your needle so it is between the button and the fabric.

7] While holding the button away from the fabric, tightly wrap the thread around the shank (the loose threads) 3 or 4 times.

8] Tie off the thread and clip.

9] The button is now secured to the fabric with a thread shank.

Doll Purse A.K.A Cell Phone Holder

 

Okay... The other day I got this incredibly beautiful cell phone. It's so pretty. It's purple and has these cute little flowers on it! (I swear that's not the only reason I bought it!) But I am so excited. Finally, a keyboard for texting (God help my children) and GPS. And, the mother of all delights... internet! Yeah, yeah, yeah, it also plays music, BUT, to have unlimited internet access... no matter where I am... euphoric!

The only draw back with the LG Lotus, and I really don't consider it a draw back because it's as cute as a bug's ear, is its odd shape. It looks more like a square compact than a phone. Because of that, none of the standard holders... hold it. Hey, not a problem, right? I have a cupboard full of felt. I'll throw something together, and it did. And I must say, it's every bit as cut as my phone. Attach a carabiner and whalah... off ya go. Dangle it from a belt loop, hang it off your back pack, or attach it to just about anything.

One small problem... Pixie came in the house, saw it, said, "Oh, pretty", and promptly gave it to her dolly as a purse. Guess what guys? I lost my cute cell phone holder and it became a doll purse! I can live with that. Hey, I'm all about multifunctional items! But since I won't be getting this one back, I'll be making a new one for myself this week.

 

I didn't plan on sharing this pattern since it is so tailored to the LG Lotus, BUT as it turns out... I guess I made a doll purse which just so happens can be used as a Lotus holder!  I hope you find a use for it. I do know the little "dolls" in your life, will thank you!  You can find the pattern here in the FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!

Doll Purse A.K.A. Cell Phone Holder

Please note: This cell phone holder was made for the LG Lotus. IT WILL NOT FIT MOST PHONES! I've included the directions because my grandbabies turned it into a doll's purse, which will fit any doll :)

CAUTION: It you are making this as a doll's purse for children under three years of age do not use a button since it can be a choke hazard. Instead, use snaps or velcro to close the purse and make a felt flower to blanket stitch on.

Materials:

Color A: felt for lining
Color B: felt for outside
Color C: felt for leaves and strap
1” button
5/8” button
Embroidery thread
Pattern

Directions:
1] Copy pattern and cut out felt pieces as follows:
Color A: 1 front, 1 back
Color B: 1 front, 1 back
Color C: 2 leaves, 1 strap

2] Place lining back on outside back. Transfer running stitch line to outside. Pin along line. Using a running stitch and 3 strands of floss sew outside to lining.


 

3] Place outside front on lining front. Pin in place and blanket stitch across upper straight edge using 3 strands of floss.

4] Place the front on top of the back with linings together lining up bottom and sides. Pin in place. Blanket stitch front to back using 3 strands of floss. Go all the way around the whole outside edge. This will attach the front to the back and sew the remaining back outside to the back lining. (At the bottom you will be going through 4 layers of felt. Make sure your needle goes straight down through the material to keep your stitches even on the back. Make sure your stitches are firm but not tight enough to start puckering the material. Also, it’s a good idea to reinforce the last blanket stitch on either side where the front edges attach to the back. (See pattern.) This is a stress point when placing things in the pouch and the reinforced stitch will help keep it together.

5] Using the pattern for placement and sharp scissors, cut a 1” slit (or the size of your largest button) for the button hole. You will be cutting through the outside and the lining together.

6] Using small and close blanket stitches, stitch around the entire button hole, including 1 stitch at the ends of the hole. Make sure your needle goes straight down through both layers of material so the button hole looks the same on the lining and outside sides.

7] Using the pattern as a guide, pin leaves around the button hole. Use 3 strands of floss to blanket stitch the leaves in place. (Note: Be careful not to sew the pouch together on the inside while adding the leaves.)

8] Mark button placement. Sew buttons on together with the smaller button on top of the larger button. It is a good idea to sew the button on using a shank. Check out the directions for making a shank here.

9] To make the handle overlap the 2 ends of the handle into a ring, being careful not to twist the fabric, and using 3 strands of floss blanket stitch the ends together.

10] Fold the handle in thirds with the outer edge running down the center of the handle. Pin. Whip stitch the edge closed.

11] Using 3 strands of floss, sew a running stitch around the entire loop.

12] Using the pattern as a guide, position the handle on the purse. The handle’s seam should be centered inside the purse. Make sure the whipped stitched side of the handle is against the purse.

13] Using 3 strands of floss, whip stitch or blind stitch the handle to the purse on either side of the handle.

Now you can decide if this is meant for a cell phone or as a doll's purse!

 

 Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

www.WeeFolkArt.com

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008-2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. KM Projects retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.
 

 

Contour Clip Barrette Cover Directions

Once you get started making barrette covers, you'll be addicted! You can sew them by hand or machine. In some cases you can applique before you sew fronts and backs together, in other cases you'll have to wait until the barrettes are attached. Go wild or just leave them plain, the choice is yours.

Materials:

Felt scraps
Bling – ribbons, buttons, appliqués, lace, etc.
Embroidery floss
Contour clip barrettes
Pattern

NOTE: The pattern included in the directions is for the Goody contour clip barrettes. They measure approximately 2” x 5/8”. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU MAKE YOUR OWN PATTERN SINCE EVEN A SLIGHT VARIATION WILL AFFECT HOW WELL THE BARRETTE CASING FITS THE BARRETTE. DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING YOUR OWN PATTERN ARE INCLUDED BELOW.

1] Copy the pattern.

2] If you are using a different size barrette you will need to make 2 patterns. First, close the barrette and trace it on paper. This will be your stitching line. Then add 1/8” around the shape. This will be your cutting line. Cut 2 pieces of felt for each barrette.

3] Next, clip the barrette to the edge of the paper as far as you can. Trace. This will be used as a guide later.

4] If using the 2” Goody contour barrettes cut out 2 pieces for each barrette.

HAND SEWING

5] Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch the 2 pieces together. You may prefer to use a running stitch. If you do, use 3 strands of floss and make a close running stitch along the stitching line.

6] On one side lay the pattern guide on the seam line. Mark the upper edge. This will be used as your cutting line.

7] Using very sharp, pointy scissors, cut along the line. CAUTION: be care to only cut through the back piece of felt.

 

8] Open the barrette and slip the front all the way down into the pocket you created. The back clip and the top of the barrette will be visible.


9] Careful stretch the “hood” over the top of the barrette.

10] Whip stitch the slit closed.

11] The barrette is now ready to wear plain or to be decorated.

MACHINE SEWING

12] Make the same as above except sew on the machine. If you are adding lace or ribbons sew them on before you stitch the 2 pieces together.

13] If you would like to use pinking or scalloped shears, cut your barrettes out slightly bigger. Mark the stitching line.

14] Now use your pinking shears to cut off the access material leaving a uniform edge around the barrette.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

Contour Clip Barrette Covers

I am notorious for losing, oh, let's call it misplacing, things. My son has a Montblanc pen. He's had it forever. NEVER give me anything of value unless it is screwed to my person. I go through pens and pencils like they were kleenex. I have no idea what I do with them... they just disappear. I'm also awful with hair clips. Pairs of barrettes soon become solos. So I can hardly get upset with young children for losing their hair clips. For that reason, when making barrettes for Pixie and Fairy, I wanted some that were super quick and easy to make, so when they inevitably get lost, it's no big deal.

Today, I'm sharing apattern for felt covered contour barrettes. They are cheap to buy, quick to stitch up, and cute as can be. The thing I like about my design is the "hood" in the back. Unlike barrette covers that can slide out of the cover, this design will keep the barrette snug as a bug in a rug! I plan to make a mountain more, but I did want to get the pattern on pdq in case anyone would like to make a few for Easter basket tuck ins. Because they are so fast to make, they also would be great to give as party favors, or put together a little basket with 4 or 5 pairs for a special gift. The directions can be found in our FREE Open patterns, but this is just a start. Let your imagination run wild! Enjoy!