April 2009

Materials:
3 colors wool felt pieces – one should be green for leaves
6 strand embroidery floss
People turnings (wooden pegs) - We buy our wood turnings from Casey' Wood
Adults 2 3/8" x 7/8"
Children 1 11/16" x 5/8"
Craft glue
Pattern for Flower Fairies
Pattern for Flower Bud Fairies

Please Note: People turnings are not all created equal. Even turnings bought from the same company can be slightly different. I highly suggest you make a copy of the pattern, cut it out of paper, and “try it on” your wooden pegs. Make adjusts to the paper pattern before cutting out your felt.

Cut out felt as follows:
Flower Fairy
Color A – petal
Color B – hat, body tube
Color C (green) – leaf
Flower Bud Fairy
Color A – body tube, cap
Color C – leaf

Directions:
1] Make copy of patterns and cut out felt as stated above. Using the pattern as a guide, embroider detail on hat and cap.

2] Place craft glue on people turnings and glue body tubes to pegs. The seam will be the back of the fairies.

Flower Fairy
3] Sew a running stitch along the upper edge of the petal piece.

4] Gently gather the stitches until the petals fit around the fairy’s neck. Tie off the thread and tack the petal to the body tube near the neck. This will prevent the petals from turning.

5] Use a whip stitch to sew the “a” edge of the petal strip to the “be” edge.

6] Repeat steps 3-5 with the leaf strip.

7] Using the pattern as a guide, mark the inner circle on the hat. Using a running stitch, sew around the circle.

8] Gently gather the stitches. Try the hat on and adjust gathers so the hat fits. Tie off the thread.

9] Place crafting glue on the inside of the hat along the gathering line.

10] Place the hat so it tilts backwards with the low end centered on the Fairy’s back. Careful squeeze the hat to make sure it is securely position. Allow to dry completely.

Flower Bud Fairy
11] Repeat steps 3 – 5 to sew leaf strip to bud.

12] Using a running stitch, sew around the outer edge of the cap.

13] Repeat steps 8 – 10.

Now, give your fairies names and send them off to play with the gnomes!

Here is a little pattern to make crocheted rugs that have the look of braided rugs. They are crocheted with felting yarn, then felted to give the dense, thick look of braided rugs. Make one or many. Your gnomes will love the feel of them under their little feet!

Please Note: I am not a seasoned crocheter. Although I love how the rugs turned out, I'm not sure my directions are written in "crocheter's lingo"! I do apologize in advance, and hope my feeble attempt at sharing this pattern makes sense. If anyone IS a true crocheter, and would be willing to look over my directions, I would gladly change terminology or directions to make them more clear. You can email me at weefolkart@yahoo.com or just post a comment in the directions. Otherwise, I'll keep my figures crossed and hope it all makes sense!

Materials:
3 colors 100% wool yarn suitable for felt
Crochet hook – size I 5.50

Directions:
1] With color A chain 13.

2] First round: Double crochet in 12 chains. Clip thread

3] Second round: Starting in the middle of one side, add color B. Chain 3. This will be your first double crochet on this round.

4] Continue double crocheting to the end of the row.

5] Double crochet 6 times in last stitch.

7] Double crochet 6 times in last stitch.
8] Double crochet down the side until you reach your 1st double crocheted chain.
9] Slip stitch through the 3rd chain in that 1st double crochet. Clip thread.

10] Third Round: Starting in the middle of one side, add color C. Chain 3. This will be your first double crochet on this round.

11] Double crochet down the side until you get to the stitch before you began your 6 double crochets on the previous round.

12] *Double crochet in the next stitch twice*. This will give you 1 increased stitch. Repeat the increases between the *s until you've increased a total of 6 stitches. There are now 12 stitches on the curved end.

13] Double crochet down the other side until you get to the stitch before you began your 6 double crochets on the previous round.

14] Repeat step 12.

15] Double crochet down the side until you reach your 1st double crocheted chain.

16] Slip stitch through the 3rd chain in that 1st double crochet. Clip thread.

NOTE: For each additional round you will be increasing by 6 stitches on either end. Follow the general pattern above adding to each end as follows:

17] Fourth Round: Color A *Double crochet twice (one increase) in the stitch before your 1st increase on the prior round, double crochet in the next stitch.* Repeat the stitches between the *s until you’ve increased 6 stitches. There are now 18 stitches on the curved end.

18] Fifth Round: Color B *Double crochet twice (one increase) in the stitch before your 1st increase on the prior round, double crochet in the next 2 stitches.* Repeat the stitches between the *s until you’ve increased 6 stitches. There are now 24 stitches on the curved end.

19] Sixth Round: Color C *Double crochet twice (one increase) in the stitch before your 1st increase on the prior round, double crochet in the next 3 stitches.* Repeat the stitches between the *s until you’ve increased 6 stitches. There are now 30 stitches on the curved end.

20] Seventh Round: Color A *Double crochet twice (one increase) in the stitch before your 1st increase on the prior round, double crochet in the next 4 stitches.* Repeat the stitches between the *s until you’ve increased 6 stitches. There are now 36 stitches on the curved end.

21] To finish rug, weave threads into rug and clip close to rug. If your original increase of 6 stitches in steps 5 and 7 created a hole, from the wrong side of the rug, loosely sew the hole closed.

22] Use your favorite method to felt the circles. I have a front loading machine with a sanitize setting which uses very hot water. I add detergent, along with the old snow boots Bug wore when he was two years old (all Velcro and “snaggy” pieces removed) and let it run its cycle. I then take them out, shape if necessary, and allow to air dry completely.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

Materials:

Scraps of wool felt
Embroidery floss
Pattern

Cutting out felt:
1] Make copy of pattern.
2] For each flower cut out 1 flower, 1 center and 2 leaves. (Note: the pattern has many flowers, centers and leaves. For a real quick cut out, tape individual flower pattern to felt. This keeps the pattern flat instead of pinning. Each pattern can be reused a couple of times, then just grab a new pattern piece, taping and cutting.) Also, remember that all flowers in nature are different so you needn’t be overly precise when you are cutting out the pieces.

Refer to the pattern for assembly:
1] Overlap one leaf over the other.

2] Center a flower over the leaves.

3] Center the center on the flower.

4] Using 6 strands of floss sew the pieces together my making an “X” on the flower center. Be certain that you are going through all 4 layers of felt. (Center, flower and 2 leaves) Make as many flowers as you’d like.

5] To assemble the garland, overlap the leaf of one flower over the leaf of another flower. Using 2 stands of floss, tack the 2 leaves together. Continue adding flowers until you reached the desired length.

Now, go decorate the house of your favorite wee folk!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved. All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights. All projects, patterns and directions are meant for your personal use and neither the patterns nor completed projects may be used for personal gain.

This tea cozy can be made in two sizes: small (11" x 9") and large (12 1/2" x 10")

Materials:
Materials are the same for the small and large tea cozy.
1/3 yard red prequilted material
1/3 yard green fabric
Wonder Under (optional)
Small piece brown or black felt
Embroidery floss to match felt
Green sewing thread
Copy of pattern:
     Small Tea Cozy
     Large Tea Cozy Page 1
     Large Tea Cozy Page 2

1] Copy pattern.

2] Cut out pattern as follows:
Red prequilted fabric:
      2 melon pieces for outside
Green fabric:
      2 melon pieces for lining
      2 rinds
      1 rectangle 3” x 4” for tab
Wonder Under or other fusible mesh (optional)
      2 rinds
Black or brown felt
      13 seeds per side (approximately)

Note: Wonder Under is used if you wish to fuse the rind to the melon, then machine zigzag the edge. If you are not using a fusible mesh, you will be turning the inner edge under 1/4" and slip stitching it in place.

Melon:
If using Wonder Under
3] Fuse Wonder Under to wrong side of rinds.

4] Fuse rinds to front and back pieces of the melon.

5] Using a wide zigzag stitch, zigzag on the inside arch of the rind, close to the edge.

Optional: If not using Wonder Under (Not pictured since I did use Wonder Under)
6] Turn under the inside edge of the rind pieces 1/4”.
7] Position the rinds on the melon pieces and attach them using a slip stitch.

8] Fold the rectangular tab lengthwise with right sides together.
9] Using a 1/2" seam, sew the length of the tab.

10] Trim seam to 1/4", turn right side out, and iron so seam is in the middle of the back.

11] Fold tab in half so seam is on the inside. Pin to the top of the front section of melon, with the seam matching the top arch edge of the melon.

12] With right sides together pin the front and back melon pieces together. Sew the arch together using a 1/2" seam.

13] Trim seam to 1/4".

14] Turn right side out and finger press the arch.

Lining:
15] With right sides together pin the front and back melon pieces together. Sew the arch together using a 1/2" seam. Trim seam to 1/4". Turn right side out and finger press the arch.

Attaching lining to melon:
16] With right sides together, pin lining to melon, matching side seams.

17] Using a 1/2" seam, stitch lining to melon leaving a 3” opening for turning.

Finishing:
18] Turn melon right side out.

19] Push lining into melon and slip stitch closed the 3" opening.

20] Using a straight or decorative stitch, top stitch the bottom 1/4" from the edge.

21] Making sure the lining is lying smoothly, pin on seeds in any pattern you want, going through the seed, melon, and lining. (This will hold the lining in place.) I placed my seeds 1” away from the inner arch. (See pic)

22] Attach seeds with 3 strands of floss with a small running stitch or by making a “t” on the seed. (Sew one straight stitch from the point of the seed to the back, then one straight stitch widthwise across the seed, making a “t”.) Sew seeds on both sides to hold lining in place.