September 2009

Straightening Fabric Grain


When doing any craft, there are some things we have to do that are more a groan than a pleasure. That's how I feel about straightening the grain of fabric. To be honest, I don't do it for most projects, but there are times when it is imperative that the fabric grain is true, and for those times, here are the steps to take to ensure your fabric is on grain.

On woven fabrics, the warp threads in the lengthwise grain are stretched on a loom. The weft threads in the crosswise grain are then woven back and forth the length of the warp threads. In a perfect world, these should be perpendicular to one another. This is called on-grain. If they are not perpendicular to one another, it is called off-grain, and it can cause completed projects to stretch out of shape or natural fringed edges to be uneven. To check grain, you will need to make a straight edge on one of the crosswise grain edges. There are three ways to do this.

How to create a straight crosswise grain edge:

1] Rip fabric. (See Rip and Tear Napkins for this How To.)

2] Cut along a line. To do this find a line near the crosswise edge that touches both selvages. Carefully cut along this line. NOTE: If using a true plaid or stripe, meaning one that has been woven with different colored threads, looking the same on both sides of the fabric, you can cut along one of the threads. If a plaid or stripe has been printed on the fabric, DO NOT cut along a line. The printing could be off-grain. Use methods 1 or 3 for printed fabrics.

3] Pull a thread. (See below.)

How to create a straight edge using Pull a Thread:

1] Begin by laying out the fabric and looking at a crosswise grain edge. Look at the weft threads going back and forth. Chances are the fabric was not cut evenly along a weft thread. Try to find the first weft thread that stretches from selvage to selvage. Follow that thread to either selvage, and make a snip in the fabric about 1/2" below that weft thread. Your snip should cut through the selvage. (The selvages are the tightly woven strips of the fabric that run along the 2 outer edges of the lengthwise grain.)

2] Remove one of the weft threads which will create a visible line that you can cut along, creating a straight edge. To do this, find one of the weft threads and begin gently pulling on it.
This will make your fabric start to gather.
Gently slide the gathers to the opposite selvage.
As the thread is pulled, it will create a line in your fabric.
If your weft thread breaks, simply cut along the line you are creating until you get to the broken thread, then grab the thread and continue.

3] When the weft thread has been removed, cut along the now visible line. You have created a straight edge along the crosswise grain.

Checking for grain:

1] Fold the fabric in half lengthwise, matching the selvages.

2] Look at the straight edge you created by ripping the fabric, cutting along a line, or pulling a thread. If the straight edge lines up evenly, then your fabric is on grain and you can proceed with your project.

3] If the straight edge is not aligned, there are 2 different methods for getting your fabric on-grain.

First, if only slightly off, you can iron your fabric to help straighten the grain. Do this by lining up the straight edge. Pin the selvage together. Smooth out the fabric so it lays flat. (Your fabric should still be folded in half lengthwise.) Iron your fabric. Your fabric should now be on-grain.

Second, if your grain is considerably off, firmly hold the short corner of the fabric then follow the bias (the diagonal line) to the other selvage. Gently tug on the fabric. The fabric will stretch on the bias. If you have a long length of fabric, move farther down the fabric and again tug on the bias.

Recheck the grain by folding the fabric in half lengthwise and checking to see if the straight edge is aligned. If not, pull along the bias again. Once the straight edge is aligned, you should be on-grain, and ready to start your project.

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 09/01/2009 - 09:09
in

Straightening Fabric Grain


I took my first home economics class when I was in 7th grade. It was mandatory for all FEMALES. Boys couldn't even take the class. (Yes, back in the Dark Ages!) Eventually, I would earn a degree in Human Ecology from Michigan State University, but back in 7th grade, I got my first exposure to many domestic skills from this exceedingly old and old fashioned teacher... she was probably, oh, 50. Here name was Mrs. Milliche. Mrs. Milliche was a stickler for details. Before we could touch fabric, we spent a week (a full week... 5 hours, count them!!!) sewing the lines on loose-leaf paper, without thread, just to make sure we perfected the straight line.  

Then, before we could start our first sewing project, we had to learn how to straighten the grain of our fabric. What? You've never heard of straightening the grain of your fabric. Well, it's high time you learned grasshopper!  On woven fabrics, the warp threads in the lengthwise grain are stretched on a loom. The weft threads in the crosswise grain are then woven back and forth the length of the warp threads. In a perfect world, these should be perpendicular to one another. This is called on-grain. If they are not perpendicular to one another, it is called off-grain, and it can cause completed projects to stretch out of shape or natural fringed edges to be uneven. 

So, like it or not, I need to send Mrs. Milliche a belated "thank you". Knowing how to straighten grain has proved useful over the years. I needed to straighten the grain of the Rip and Tear Napkins I made last week. And I have a project I will be sharing in a couple days, which will require a true straight edge which you will learn to do in the Straightening the Grain tutorial found HERE. Enjoy... or at least appreciate it for what it is!!!

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 09/01/2009 - 09:09
in

Wooden Apple Orchard


So, here's what happened... Michelle and I were talking about birthday gifts for Pixie... she'll be three next week. We were at a couple of our favorite natural toys sites. Michelle's children have many of the Ostheimer and Holztiger wooden figures but they need some accessory pieces... "We want a shubbery!" (Okay, I'll admit it, I watched Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail this past weekend!) Anyway, here's the thing... they are so pricey. And although I believe they are worth every penny, my rather naive nature (which is nicer than thinking about my delusions of grandeur - hmmm, Star Wars reference, do you see a pattern here? But I digress) anyway... my rather naive nature made me think... I could make those!

So, armed with more optimism than common sense, I set out to Lowe's Monday night and purchased a $114.00 Skil scroll saw. Given that wooden figures are $15.00 - $30.00 I figured I could pay off my investment in no time. I went to bed Monday night wearing a flannel nightgown (its gotten cool) and my scroll saw manual. Truly a sexy sight! Anyway, Tuesday morning, I was set to go. Tim, my beloved enabler, had set out a stack of pine scraps and his dremel. (Another power tool, which sells for about $50.00) I realize that Ostherimer and Holztiger use hardwoods like maple and ash, but I thought it prudent to begin with cheaper wood!

I took the saw out to my deck, traced the tree on a piece of pine, and started cutting. I scrapped my first effort, but the second one actually turned out. I cut another. I then sat down with the dremel and softened the sides. At this point, Michelle shows up. She looks down at them, and says the 6 words that make Todd and Tim turn gray... "You know what would be cool?" "An apple ORCHARD. And you could put it on a base. And you could put pegs on the base and drill holes in the trees, so they could come off and be played with independently. And you could make other things that could go on the base. As a matter of fact, you could make several bases. One for an open field, one for a garden, one for the woods. Yeah, that would be cool!"

This, friends, is why I don't sleep! I have to admit, fool that I am, I embraced the idea. And it really can't be that hard, because you are looking at the end results. Yesterday, my first time touching a scroll saw, I made an apple orchard, and I'm darn proud of it! I started by cutting the wood out with a scroll saw, then sanding the edges with a dremel. I then painted them using milk paint, and finished them with my olive oil/beeswax finish. I must admit Tim drilled the holes in the base and the trees, but next time, I'm going to do that, too!

Although I am very far from giving advice on woodworking, sometime in the next couple of weeks I'll write up better directions and include the pattern for the base and trees in case anyone else wants to give it a go. And frankly, I think I already paid off the scroll saw... and had an absolute blast doing it! I see many, many wood projects in my future!     

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 09/02/2009 - 08:21
in

Easy Cotton Shawls

There's a misconception that you have to be highly skilled to make truly beautiful gifts. Not so! Even the "noviest" novice can make lovely gifts, if they chose the right project! Take these beautiful shawls. They  are gorgeous enough to be found in the nicest boutiques, yet, with just the tiniest bit of effort, anyone can make the shawls for themselves or as gifts... without sewing... in less than an hour! You couldn't ask for more, right?

Actually, these were an impulsive project. I was at the fabric store buying material for napkins. I saw these lovely wool plaids. I went over and felt them... they were oh so soft. I lust after wool. Being allergic, I sometimes pet them, drool over the lovely colors, and wonder who was the genetic weak link in our family that passed down a wool allergy! Honestly, in the whole survival of the fittest thing, what benefit can there possibly be to being allergic to something that can provide shelter and warmth! Anyway... force of habit had me check the fabric content. 100% cotton. Did I read that right? I checked 2 whole shelves of wool plaids that weren't wool at all... they were cotton. Shades of ecstasy! Cotton plaids that looked like wools! 

Well, now to decide what to do with them. There is nothing about my body that suggests wrapping a plaid around my butt would be anything but a fashion faux pas! But I so wanted to make something... to feel its warmth and softness. Well, duh! Shawls. What could be better on a cool fall evening than a shawl thrown over your shoulders? Another nice thing about them is they are a one size fits all. I can throw a shawl over my shoulders or even on my head in moist weather when I have to run down to the mailbox, BUT, if Fairy wants a dewy stroll in the morning, the best time to check for flower fairies BTW, a shawl over the shoulders is a must! (Makes up a bit for bare feet!!!) They are also great to offer a chilled friend when you're snuggling on the couch, looking at vintage Christmas books. And, icing on the cake, they look absolutely beautiful displayed on shaker pegs on your wall!

The way I see it... cotton shawls are a win, win, win, project. Easy to make (very easy to make) beautiful to look at, and useful. (Did I mention they make lovely throws on the couch or as table clothes on small round tables?) And, oh yes, if you are one of the lucky people that can wear wool... you certainly can use wool to make these!  If you would like to make a few of your own, check out the directions for our Cotton Shawls HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!     

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/03/2009 - 13:44
in

Easy Cotton Shawls

Self fringing shawls can be made from cotton or wools. Although I used cotton plaids, solid colors may be used too. This is a no sew project that can be done in under an hour. But be warned... they are easy and fun to make and the materials that are available are so beautiful you might just get carried away!

Finished Size: These shawls are square. The finished size will be approximately the width of the fabric you are using so they might be a 44", 54" or 60" shawl. The directions are the same for them all.

Materials:
Cotton or wool plaids or solids. If using cotton, the fabric should be heavier like a wool.

Buy a length of fabric the width of the fabric plus an1/8 of yard. (If the fabric is cut evenly, you do not need the extra 1/8 yard.)

 

Directions:
1] Begin by cutting off the selvages. To make sure you cut a straight line, use the method "cut along a line" if you have a plaid or "pull a thread" if you're using a solid piece of fabric. Directions for these 2 methods can be found in the tutorial  Straightening Fabric Grain. 

2] Straighten one crosswise edge using "cut along a lin or "pull a thread" method mentioned above.

3] Measure the width of your fabric after the 2 selvages are cut off. Now, measure the same distance from the straight crosswise edge you just created to the bottom of the fabric. Cut the fabric off at that point using the "cut along a line" or "pull a thread" method.

4] You should now have a square of fabric.
5] Remove 3/4" of threads from each of the 4 sides.

You are done. Wasn't that easy?

BTW: Don't throw away the threads you pulled off your shawl. Put them in the woods in the fall for animals to take into their winter homes, or save them for the spring, drape them on branches, and the birds will collect them for their nests! It's always wonderful to discover nests with pieces of fibers in them! I know the animals send their thanks!


 

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.
All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/03/2009 - 15:09
in

The Gangs All Here!

Just letting everyone know Michelle and I will be "off" this weekend. All 5 of our children will be home, and there will be much merriment ensuing! Adam, from South Carolina, flew in last night, Drew and his wife Meghan will be driving in today, and our youngest, Mike, and his new girlfriend, Katie, who we'll be meeting for the first time (and we can't wait... Fairy wanted to know what she likes to play and if she has pierced ears? What more do you need to know about someone, right?) will be in tomorrow. We'll be having a big picnic here on Sunday with other family members joining us. (I will point out... instead of cleaning this week like I should have, I was busy crafting... not a surprise to my children, that grew up with a mom easily distracted by creative pursuits!) Anyway... we are looking forward to frolicking fun, and hope your families have an equally enjoyable and safe holiday weekend, and we'll be back on Tuesday.

Submitted by Kimara on Fri, 09/04/2009 - 07:06
in

Mini Pumpkins


To create one teeny tiny pumpkin, or a whole patch, follow these simple instructions. The pumpkins can be made out of cotton calico or wool felt. The calico pumpkins will be slightly smaller. If making a whole patch, mix and match autumn colors to give a "natural" look.

Materials:
Scraps of cotton calico and wool felt
Embroidery floss
Stuffing
Pattern

1] Make 1 copy pattern.

2] Cut out 1 circle for each pumpkin. You can use a cotton calico or wool felt. Cut out 2 – 3 leaves out of wool felt for each pumpkin.

If using calico:
3] Turn under 1/4" hem to the wrong side of the fabric. Sew a running stitch around circle using 3 strands of floss. Do not cut thread.

If using felt:
3] Sew a running stitch around edge of circle. Do not cut thread.

For calico and felt:
4] Begin gathering the running stitch until you create a pouch.

5] Fill with stuffing and finish gathering the running stitch and tie off. The needle will be secured at the center top of the pumpkin.

6] With the thread still attached at the top, poke the needle through the center bottom of the pumpkin, going through the pumpkin, and bringing your needle out of the pumpkin at the center top.

7] Pull firmly on the thread creating a ridge along the thread line. While the thread is pulled taut, tie off the thread. Do not cut. You will now have a pumpkin ridge.

8] Continue in the same fashion, coming up from the center bottom and out through the center top, pulling the thread taut, and tying off at the top. Create a total of 6 evenly spaced ridges. After the final ridge is tied off, cut thread.

9] Cut out 2 or 3 leaves for each pumpkin. Using 2 strands of floss that match the leaf, tack one leaf at a time to the top of the pumpkin. If using different colored leaves, use thread that matches each leaf color. Arrange in a natural looking manner.

10] To make the stem, finger stitch or crochet a chain 1/2" long using 6 strands of embroidery floss. Tie off the end of the chain but leave a long tail. Clip the thread at the top of the chain so only about 1/8" remains.

11] Thread the 6 strands of floss into a needle, position the stem where you want it on top of the pumpkin, and poke the needle through the pumpkin and out through the center bottom. Make a small stitch and poke the needle back up to the top, pulling it out under one of the leaves. Tie off the thread.

Now... make a whole patch full and set them outside your gnome or doll house!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.
All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission.

Submitted by Kimara on Mon, 09/07/2009 - 18:29
in

Mini Pumpkin Patch


We hope everyone had a wonderful holiday weekend. I'm not sure how ours could have been any better! But with the very last hurrah of summer over, we are ready to roll up our sleeves, and seriously ponder autumn! And what could be more autumn than pumpkins? I crafted these little guys to go in our gnomes' pumpkin patch, but they could just as easily go in a dollhouse, or be tucked here and there around your house.

These little cuties can be made out of calico or felt. I've shown the completed pumpkins in both materials. The wool felt pumpkins will be slightly larger since you do not need to turn under a seam, but for the most realistic pumpkin patch, you'll want a variety of colors and fabrics. These range in size from 1 1/2" - 2" but you can enlarge the pattern and put them together in the same way. The technique is easy and suitable for a beginner crafter. So, if you'd like your own Mini Pumpkin Patch you can find it HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy! 

Submitted by Kimara on Mon, 09/07/2009 - 19:54
in

Mini Braided Rugs


Having a gnome or dollhouse is a great way to make use of those little pieces of fabric that common sense tells us we should pitch. For example... when making my September Rip and Tear Napkins (yes, I've decided to have a stack of 24 rip and tears for each month of the year) I was left with a 2 yard long, 8" wide piece of fabric. I knew I had to be able to re-purpose this left over piece of fabric for something. Well, as soon as I set the gnome house on the dining room table, I thought... they need new rugs. I knew just what I was going to do! Three rips later, a little braiding, a little tacking, and tah dah, a new rug for the gnome house!

Move ahead 3 hours... Michelle shows up at 7:00 p.m. last night. We were going to discuss the children's science program that starts next week. (The grandbabies, along with 3 other families, will be coming over here for a science club once a week. So, with the wee ones safely in daddy's charge, Michelle came over, sans children, because have you ever noticed you can get more accomplished in half an hour without children around than you can in an entire day with?) Anyway... Michelle picks up the little rug I just made. She's looking at it sideways (observing thickness), she's balancing it in one palm (checking for weight I suppose), then she's giving it multi-directional tugs (testing tensile strength???)

"Hey", she says, "You know what would be cool?"

"NO!!!", I'm thinking, I know what's coming next!

"This would make a great rug under my kitchen table. What do you think?"

"I think you're right...a braided rag rug under your table would look great BUT I CAN'T MAKE IT!!!"

It's not often that I refuse to become Michelle's partner in crime. But I really, really, truly cannot take on a project of that magnitude right now. I barely sleep as it is!!! And I don't often say "No" to my children. It leaves a bad taste in my mouth. But I do believe this would be the proverbial straw!

"I'm not asking you to. I'm just saying..."

Ah, safe for the moment! Anyway... THIS wee little braided rug won't break anyone's back, and can be thrown together in a couple of hours. Directions for this circular Mini Braided Rug can be found HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. In a couple of days I'll add instructions for turning it into an oval rug, In the meantime, if you think your gnomes will need a little warmth this fall, not to mention a lovely decorating addition, get braiding! Enjoy!

Hmmm... I'm thinking... make them 3 1/2" - 4" wide and they would make perfect coasters!!!

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 09/09/2009 - 08:11
in

Mini Braided Rugs


Falls here, and it's time to help your gnomes or dolls getting their homes ready for the cool months ahead. What could be nicer than a few throw rugs under their feet. Here are directions for turning otherwise unusable scraps of fabric into cherished gnome accessories! Finished size of this rug is slightly large than 5" diameter. Obviously, to make it smaller, just use smaller lengths of fabric strips. To make it larger, use more. Make sure to make a few!

Materials:
3" x 2 yard piece of light - medium weight fabric (I used designer prints)
Carpet thread or 3 strands floss (color matching the fabric)

NOTE: If you do not have a 2 yard piece of fabric to rip from, you can splice strips together. Just make sure to stagger where you splice the 3 strips of fabric. If you splice them in the same spot, your rug will have a lump in that area. To splice: put 2 right sides together, and using a small stitch, sew together with a 1/4" seam.

1] Rip 3 strips of fabric 1" x 2 yards. Remove obvious loose threads.

2] Lay the fabric strips on top of one another so the right sides are up. Securely tack them together.

3] Holding the end, begin braiding the 3 pieces of fabric.

HINT: I chose to hold the braid in my teeth! If you have a strong gag reflex or find this practice repulsive :) you can secure the end in a drawer or even pin it to the back of an upholstered chair. You just want to make sure you keep the braid taut while you work on it.

HINT: Because the strips are long, they will get tangled. I found if every 3 or 4 twists, I pulled one strip clear of the other 2, I did not have problems with them getting tangled.

HINT: If you begin braiding with the right side of the fabric up, although the strips get crushed, the right side of the fabric should remain on the outside of the braid. Occasionally, you may need to stop or even take out a little of the braid, and realign the fabric so the right side is outside.

4] When you finish braiding, secure the end with a safety pin.

5] Beginning at the top of the braid, begin rolling the braid. You may need to put a couple of stitching in the beginning of the braid get it to lie flat.

HINT: To roll the rug, work on a flat surface. Always work on the back of the rug (determined by the side that is facing you and that you will be stitching on.) The braid should lie flat, so you can see the braiding, not on its side. Although you will need to hold the rug to stitch it together, place it on the flat surface regularly to ensure you are stitching it flat.

6] To stitch the rug together, use matching thread. From the back go back and forth from the edge of the already rolled rug to the loose braid, tacking back and forth. I found making stitches every 1/4" worked well. Occasionally, knot your thread, but do not cut it. This will strengthen the rug, and if a thread happens to break later, only part of the rug will come undone. 

NOTE: You can effectively hide your threads, making the rug reversible, if you slide your needle between the braids. Because I used matching thread, and I seriously question whether or not the gnomes will ever notice there is a right or wrong side to the rug, I wasn't that careful!

7] Continue in this manner until you are about 3" from the end. Clip the end on an angle. Continue tacking until you get to the end, making sure to catch all the loose ends.

You are now done! Put it in your gnome or doll house and, well, start another!   

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 09/09/2009 - 09:02
in

Mini Braided Rug Fabric


I've had a few people mention the fabric in the rug and I got an email asking me what fabric I used. I almost always make note of the fabrics I'm using, but for some reason I didn't on this one. I bought the fabric at JoAnns. I got it in their holiday designer section. It is a little heavier, a little nicer, than the regular calicoes. (This is 1 of 2 designs I made into napkins for November.) Anyway, here's what the fabric looks like pre rug. Hope that helps. If anyone knows off hand the designer, please share. I know I could come up with it... just don't have the time today!

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/10/2009 - 13:17
in

Wooden Apple Orchard Tutorial


To make this apple orchard you will need to use a scroll saw, a dremel and a drill. I am a VERY novice woodworker, and have no tips or suggestions for how to use this equipment. I'm learning as I go, trying to be as careful as possible, but would not even begin to try to teach someone how to do this stuff. I'm having this total tension issue with the saw blades and keep breaking them. But I will get the hang of it, and I will get better.

So, here's the deal on the instructions. (Hmmm... think I'm giving a disclaimer!!!) Basically, I'm giving you the pattern that I designed. I'll tell you what I did, even share some lovely photos, BUT, this is not instructions on how to use the tools. I'm thoroughly enjoying this, and finding it easy, with delightful results. BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

NOTE: The trees can stand by themselves without a base, so, making a base is optional. HOWEVER, the trees do not stand well on carpet so the bases really help stabilize them. There are 2 base patterns included. A base for 1 tree and a base for 5 trees. Your choice.

Materials:
wood - I used 1" x 6" pine scraps but you can use any solid wood - not plywood
paint - I used milk paint - use non toxic paints
finish - I used an all natural olive oil and beeswax finish - use a non toxic finish
1/4" dowel rod if you are making a base
wood glue if you are making a base
pattern

Tools and equipment:
scroll saw
dremel
drill
fine sandpaper - I used a sponge sandpaper block
safety glasses
face mask

1] Make copy of pattern. Cut out pattern pieces. Tape the 2 pieces of the base together.

2] Trace pattern pieces on wood. (You can either trace with or against grain. HINT: If you're making multiple trees, do them all the same to give a unified look to your project.)

3] Cut out the pieces using a scroll saw. NOTE: Check out the pics below. THEY ARE NOT PERFECT! See how I didn't stay on line all the time! This project is an "ish" thing. They do not need to be exact to look great when you're done!

4] Using the dremel, soften the edges by using the dremel at a 30 - 45 degree angle. Take the edges down enough so you can see the angle but be careful not to overdo it! (Which is easy with a dremel!) This does not need to be perfectly smooth. Imperfections give a lovely hand hewed look to the project! Make sure you are wearing safety glasses and a face mask. I didn't use a face mask on my first tree and I was coughing up sawdust the rest of the day!

5] Use the dremel to lightly sand the flat edges, just enough to remove scroll saw marks.

6] Go over the whole piece with fine sandpaper.

7] The piece is now ready to paint. Use the directions for painting the wood found in our Building Blocks - Painting the Blocks tutorial. I used milk paint on my trees. When adding apples to your trees, you do not need to exact. Each tree can, and probably should, be a little different. Get creative. Add as much or as little detail as you like.

8] Seal the wood. Following the directions for finishing the wood found in our Build Blocks - Finishing the Blocks tutorial. In the directions you will find my recipe for an all natural finish that I use all the time! 

9] If you are making a base, mark the hole placement on the bottom of your tree and in the base. Using a drill with a 1/4" drill bit, drill holes 1/2" deep. (Refer to pattern.)

10] Cut your dowel rod into 1" pieces. Using wood glue, glue the dowel rods into THE BASE! (Do not glue them into the trees because you want them to be able to stand up without the base.)

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/10/2009 - 22:21
in

Apple Tree Applique Block

 


It's fall and that means a trip... nay... many trips to our local apple orchard. Actually, we are very fortunate, in our area there are several apple orchards and cider mills to choose from. My son Drew, and his wife Meghan, moved to Wisconsin a few years ago and have been searching high and low for a true, honest to goodness working cider mill, with pick your own apples, wagon rides, and hot, freshly made donuts, but have yet to find one. But we have them in abundance... and they're close enough to go to for cider and hot donuts... OFTEN! Which, in and of itself is lovely, but a bit problematic to my thighs! Anyway... I could hardly get through the season without sharing a felt applique apple tree. Last year I discovered the embroidery stitch the Woven Spider Wheel, and have used it often for flowers BUT it totally excels as apples! Make sure to "weave tightly" (I went under 26 spokes) and your apple will take on a lovely 3 dimensional look. (BTW... I added grass as an afterthought using 6 strands of floss and a simple straight stitch. You will not see that on the pattern, but easy enough to add if you'd like.)

I wanted to talk just a little bit about the applique blocks in general. I'm always saying they can be enlarged or reduced to meet your needs, but you might wonder what "needs" can I be referring to. Well... the designs in the applique blocks can be utilized in many ways. For example, I used this applique block as the pattern for my Wooden Apple Orchard. (Which I'll be sharing the pattern and a brief how-to next week.) I didn't even have to change the size. But by enlarging or reducing the pattern, or other small modifications like adding a 1/4" seam allowance, they can be turned into many other things. The applique PATTERNS can be made out of cottons and appliqued on clothing or quilts. They can be cut out of wood. They can be made into stencils for your walls. They can be reduced, and cut out of polymer clay for brooches. You can add a back and stuff them for stuffies. They can become stained glass patterns. There are many applications possible.

To help visualize their uses, we are going to do a series of Christmas projects, using the same design in several different ways. We will be using a pine tree applique block and turning it into table decorations, a garland, a wreath and an apron applique. We will even use it to make Christmas cards. So watch for our new design and its many applications.

In the meantime, the Apple Tree Applique Block pattern can be found HERE or in our FREE Applique Patterns. As always, Enjoy, and happy appley fall!  
 

Submitted by Kimara on Fri, 09/11/2009 - 17:50
in

Woven Spider Wheel Stitch


We got a question from one of our readers about the Woven Spider Wheel Stitch. And although the diagram we have in the glossary is the "textbook" picture, I have found a few tricks that make this stitch not only a breeze, but fun! And since this has become one of my all time favorite stitches, and one I use often, I thought I'd take a few minutes and write up instructions of how to successfully make this stitch. So, if you're interested in getting the down and dirty on the Woven Spider Wheel Stitch, check it out HERE. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 09/13/2009 - 09:44
in

Woven Spider Wheel Stitch


The Woven Spider Wheel Stitch is a versatile stitch that I use often. It makes a circular, raised stitch appropriate for flowers, apples, polka dots, etc. It winds up being raised, giving it a wonderful 3-D effect. Obviously, I love this stitch, and although it might seem difficult, with a couple of tricks, you'll be creating perfect Woven Spider Wheel Stitches in no time... and having a blast doing it!

When embroidering on felt, I use 6 strands of floss. It you are embroidering the stitch on a lighter weight fabric, reduce the number of strands.

1. Draw a circle on your fabric, using a disappearing marker. I bought this wonderful circle gauge in the drafting/drawing section of our local craft store. It is worth every penny I paid. I use it for many projects. I drew my circle 5/16".

2. Evenly space 5 spokes. NOTE: If you are making a larger circle, increase the number of spokes you have, but always maintain an odd number of spokes.

3. Bring your needle up through the center of the wheel. Being weaving with an under 1 spike, over another. Continue going around the circle making sure you keep the thread taut but not tight enough to pucker your work. HINT: Instead of using the needle point to lead your weave, turn the needle backwards and use the eye. The eye is not sharp and will slip over the fabric and thread without catching.

4. When you can no longer see the spokes, you are done weaving. (In the circle pictured, I went UNDER the spokes 26 times.)

5. Poke the needle under the circle to the back of the fabric and tie off.

6. You now have a round, nicely raised Woven Spider Wheel Stitch! Easy, right?

I've used the stitch for apples...

And flowers...

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 09/13/2009 - 09:58
in

Fans of Wee Folk Art

Are you one of our regular readers? Do you have a Facebook account  or just want to see what's going on? If so, click on over to Wee Folk Art's new Facebook Page. Facebook gives us a chance to share things that don't totally fit our blog's format. So... if you're looking for a "Wee Bit" more of "Wee Folk", why not become a fan? We'd love to have you! Just click on the link below or at the top of the left column. See you there!

Wee Folk Art on Facebook
Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 09/13/2009 - 16:35
in

Pirate Shirt UN-Pattern

We are calling this the Pirate Shirt UN-PATTERN. I totally winged this pattern and don't have the normal step-by-step photos you have come to love about WeeFolkArt (although there are still a good handful). There was a lot of just fudging it that went on and fortunately Pirate Shirts are very forgiving that way. So instead of a pattern here... I'm going to walk you through my thought process.

First I grabbed a button down shirt of the boy's. I wanted to get a feel for size/scale. I roughly traced the front piece onto a paper bag. I added a V to the front by looking at where the shirt would open if he left the top two buttons undone. I also made the arm hole just slightly bigger.

I used an old (wrinkled and slightly stained... which adds a nice touch to the pirate shirt) piece of muslin fabric. I cut out both the front and back on a fold, leaving a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around (even at the fold... I wanted him to be able to wear something under the shirt if it was cold on Halloween). On the back panel I did not cut out the V. I sewed the front and back together at the shoulder, right sides together. I pressed the seams open.

I cut out two sleeves an inch or so longer than the ones on his button down shirt and about 2" wider at the shoulder and 1" wider at the cuff. Pirates have puffy sleeves. I ran a loose running stitch along the top edge and ruffled it before lining it up on the open shirt, right sides together. I sewed in in place (no fancy setting in a sleeve done here ;) ). Then I cut out floppy cuffs. They were made with about 6" wide fabric cut the length of bottom of his sleeve. I folded them in half, right sides together, cut the edges on a slight angle that flared out at the fold, stitched up the edges, turned the cuffs right side out and ironed the edges. I then lined up the cuffs on the bottom of the sleeves. I had to ruffle the bottom edge of the sleeves a bit to fit it to the cuff. I stitched them together adding a 1/4" wide piece of elastic (cut to fit just a bit stretched at my son's wrist) with an open zig-zag stitch.

I folded the whole shirt over at the shoulders, right sides together and stitched up the side seams and arms, reinforcing at the armpits, stopping just at the elastic in the cuffs so that the cuffs flared open. I then hemed the bottom edge of the shirt.

I don't have any photos of the collar. This was where a lot of fudging went on (AND I'M SURE THERE IS A BETTER WAY TO DO THIS PART). I made a collar similar to the cuffs only longer so it wrapped around most of the opening. I made a piece of fold over binding to finish of the bottom of the V. I added the binding, then the collar right sides together. Then, because the collar was folding at the seam and you could see the seam, I pressed the seam down and top stitched around the collar just to hold the seam down inside the shirt. That seemed to work just fine for a costume shirt. When I make the next one (I'm going to have to since Bug hasn't taken the shirt off since I made it) I will revisit this step.

Of course the minute it was off the machine it was on the boy with him asking for a vest now. Which I whipped up, although we weren't happy with the color selection I had on hand. I see a navy or black one in our future... in which I will take some pics.

He raided the dress up clothes and found an old belt of Daddy's, a red play silk and a belt from an old robe. He strung some wooden beads and I make him a quick ring with a large brass button and a piece of pipe cleaner. We managed to pull off a pretty quick AND FREE Captain Jack Sparrow look. All we will be purchasing for his costume is a hat.

Submitted by Michelle on Mon, 09/14/2009 - 08:06
in

Ahoy Matey!

Dress up clothes are played with daily around here. The box that is supposed to contain them is usually dumped all over the library floor in the kids' attempt to find some magical accessory that must always be at the very bottom of the bucket. Since they love dress up... planning their Halloween costume is a favorite activity. They spend hours imagining all the cool characters they could become. Planning starts, oh in July probably, with a final choice made in September.

Bug is enthralled with pirates at the moment (a nice change of pace for us... I was having a hard time listening to any more Star Wars talk). For the last few weeks I've heard about his needing a pirate shirt every day. This weekend I was able to sit down and work on it for him. I didn't have a pattern, just a vague idea of what I wanted it to look like and an old, stained piece of muslin with which to work. I'm not really sharing a pattern per se, there was a whole lot of fudging going on... but I am going to walk you through my thought process. We are calling this our Pirate Shirt UN-pattern but there should be enough info here to get you going on your own pirate shirt project. NOTE: This shirt could also be used for other Renaissance type outfits as well.

The vest pattern can be found HERE.

Have fun Matey!

Submitted by Michelle on Mon, 09/14/2009 - 09:06
in

Wooden Apple Orchard Tutorial


To make this apple orchard you will need to use a scroll saw, a dremel and a drill. I am a VERY novice woodworker, and have no tips or suggestions for how to use this equipment. I'm learning as I go, trying to be as careful as possible, but would not even begin to try to teach someone how to do this stuff. I'm having this total tension issue with the saw blades and keep breaking them. But I will get the hang of it, and I will get better.

So, here's the deal on the instructions. (Hmmm... think I'm giving a disclaimer!!!) Basically, I'm giving you the pattern that I designed. I'll tell you what I did, even share some lovely photos, BUT, this is not instructions on how to use the tools. I'm thoroughly enjoying this, and finding it easy, with delightful results. BUT PLEASE BE CAREFUL!

I used pine to make my apple orchard. Many of the wooden toys you buy are made out of hard woods like maple, walnut, cherry, etc. So far I've only worked with pine for several reasons. First, we had some in the garage. (Love raiding Tim's stash!!!) Second, it's a soft wood, and easier to work on for a beginner. Three, it's cheaper than the hard woods, so if you mess up, no great lost. Finally, I love primitive. Many things in my house are made of pine. I don't mind nicks and dings. As a matter of fact, I think it adds to the charm. And since I love the way the orchard looks and feels, I feel very okay with suggesting you use pine if you are a beginner.

So, if you're an experienced woodcrafter, you'll find this project easy peasy. If you're new to the craft, like I am, have fun, be careful, and don't get frustrated. You do not have to be exact or perfect for the end results to be lovely. So, if you want to give it a try... you can find the tutorial for the Wooden Apple Orchard HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy... BUT BE CAREFUL!

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 09/15/2009 - 09:09
in

Party Purse

With a few modifications, I turned our Treasure Pouch into a Party Purse! Although I did not add any closure, you could use Velcro, a snap, or the magnetic closers. You could even put in a buttonhole and button. I used the pattern from the Treasure Pouch. Just substitute the word purse and tah dah, it's good to go!

Materials:
light to medium weight fabric for piecing the outside purse and lining
light weight batting
2 3/4" buttons
extra wide rick rack - mine was 1" wide
pattern

1] Make a copy of the pattern. Tape together the two pieces that make up the purse back.

2] Lay a piece of light weight fabric (muslin) over a thin batting. Pin pattern pieces in place and cut out.


3] Pin the batting and muslin together. 

4] The strips of fabric used to cover the batting are purposely cut askew. Although the 2 outer edges must be straight, the strips should be smaller at one end than the other. How different you make them is a matter of choice and should be aesthetically pleasing to you. There is no right or wrong way to do this. NOTE: I cut out one piece at a time and decide with each strip how I want it cut. I use a cutting mat, edge and roller blade but you can mark lines and use scissors to cut your strips.  

5] Once you have a strip cut, place it on your purse back. The strip should over hang the purse piece and the wrong side of the fabric should be directly against the batting. DO NOT sew this first piece on. 
6] Cut a second strip in the same manner. Place is on the purse over the first strip with right sides together and pin in place. Using a 1/4" seam, sew the strip to the purse back.
7] Remove pins and finger press the second strip up. 
8] Continue cutting and sewing strips to the purse back until the entire piece is covered. NOTE: Remove the pins that hold the batting to the muslin as you go.
9] Iron the complete quilted piece.
10] Turn the piece over so you see the overhanging strips. Cut away the extra material so it is the same size as the batting and muslin.
NOTE: If you would like the embellish with any type of embroidery, now is the time to do that. This purse has a crazy quilt look about it. Often people embroider using fancy stitches on or near the stitching lines. I did not have time to do it, plus I think the fabric is busy enough without it, but with certain fabrics it would add a lovely touch!

11] To cut out the lining, lay the completed back on top of the lining material, with wrong sides together. Pin in place and cut out the lining. Set aside.
12] To add the rick rack, lay the pattern on the right side of the quilted back. Place a pin at the dotted fold line on the fabric. This is where you should splice the rick rack.
13] Most rick rack is made from man made materials (Polyester, rayon, etc.) that melt much like plastic. To prevent the rick rack from fraying, you can carefully melt the edge of the rick rack. If you prefer you can use Fray Check or sew the edge of the rick rack. If done right, I find melting the edge seems to work the best for me. NOTE: Obviously, be careful when using a flame. You do not need to put the rick rack directly in the flame to melt it. Just holding the edge near the flame will melt it. Practice on piece before using a good piece of rick rack. 
14] Pin the rick rack to the front of the finished back piece. You will be using a 1/2" seam allowance to sew the lining to the back, so make sure the rick rack center is 1/2" from the edge. Reposition your rick rack if necessary so 1/2" is in the middle of the trim.
15] Pin the rick rack all the way around the front of the purse back. Cut the rick rack so it overlaps by at least a quarter of an inch. Carefully melt the edge or add Fray Check or sew the edge. Pin in place. NOTE: Before anyone asks... I do not have any magic formula for making the rick rack line up. The fact that my 2 edges matched almost exactly was pure luck! If you notice that you are close, you can play with the spacing of the rick rack a little, but mostly, it is what it is!
16] Using a 1/4" seam, sew rick rack to purse back.
17] Pin the lining to the purse back with right sides together. Using a 1/2" seam, sew the pieces together, leaving a 2 1/2" opening on one side. 
18] Trim seams to 1/4". (Do not trim along the open edge.) Turn right side out through the opening and press.
19] Ladder stitch the opening closed. Basically you are sewing to the rick rack. You will need to do this on the quilted side of the back and the lining side. Doing this in two steps helps hide your stitches.
20] Using small stitches, sew the 2 ends of the rick rack together.
The finished quilted side of the back.
The finished lining side of the back.
21] To make the smaller front piece, proceed as you did for the back except you will not be adding rick rack. When you sew the lining to the quilted front, leave the 2 1/2" opening at the top.  
22] Lay the completed front purse piece on top of the back purse piece so the linings are touching. Pin in place. Using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, top stitch an 1/8" away from the edge of the piece (do not sew on rickrack.) Reinforce at the top straight edge of the front piece. This area will get a lot of wear and tear when you go in and out of your purse. The top stitching should go all the way around the entire edge of the purse, including the top flap. Sew a second line of top stitching 1/4" away from the first.
23] To make the strap, cut out the strap from the lining fabric. Cut the piece 3" x 31". (You can make this shorter or longer to meet your needs. Cut out one piece of batting 1 1/4" x 31".
24] Fold the strap in half lengthwise with right sides together. Place the batting over the folding strap, lining the batting up with the folded edge. Pin in place. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, begin at one end of the strap and sew together. You need to sew the ends shut and do a 90 degree turn at the corners. Leave about a 3" opening in the middle of the strap. Continue sewing the rest of the way. Make sure to make a 90 degree turn at the other corner and sew the end shut. Trim the seam to 1/4" (Do not trim along the open edge.) 

OPPS!!! There should be a photo here. Seems I missed documenting this step! I think the directions are clear, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact us!

25] Turn the strap right side out and press. (You do not need to sew the opening closed.

26] Top stitch around the whole strap about 1/8" from the edge. (This will close up the opening.)
27] To position the strap, close the purse along the fold line. On the back, pin the strap in place so the bottom of the strap is 1" from the fold, and the outer edge of the strap is 1/2" away from the purse edge.
28] Secure fasten buttons. This is how the strap is attached to the purse. Make sure the buttons are on tight. If the purse is going to hold a lot of weight, you can use an invisible stitch to sew the strap to the purse along the edge. In most cases, the buttons should suffice.
Your Party Purse is now done!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/17/2009 - 22:01
in

Pixie's Party Purse

One of the very first patterns we shared with our readers over a year ago was our Treasure Pouch. It was meant to be a spare pocket for the wee ones when they went on walk-abouts. It was made out of felt and flannel. They still use them constantly, but since that time I've kept looking at them thinking... "Hey, with the right fabric, we could really dress up that pouch". Well... for Pixie's birthday, I made the annual party dress and decided she needed a Party Purse. So, I grabbed the Treasure Pouch pattern as a starting point, and tweaked a little here, added and little there, and wah lah... our newfangled Party Purse! Directions for Pixie's Party Purse can be found HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/17/2009 - 22:31
in

Archives

Here are the Wee Folk Art Archives... enjoy your look around!

Submitted by Michelle on Sun, 09/20/2009 - 09:07

Register

You may choose to become a registered user at Wee Folk Art. The advantage to becoming a registered user is the ability to stay logged in making commenting easier and you may also include a link to your blog in your signature. Registration it is NOT required for you to view patterns or to make comments.
Register Now

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 09/20/2009 - 12:42

Apple Applique Block

I was going to start this post talking about how much I love fall, but I've already said that... many times. Instead, I'm just going to introduce our Apple Applique Block, tell you I made it to fit a 6" x 6" block, and remind you that you can enlarge or reduce the pattern to meet your needs. As usual, I'll tell you that you can find the pattern for the Apple Applique Block HERE or in our FREE Applique Patterns. I will also give my ubiquitous "Enjoy"!

Having fulfilled the status quo... I'm going to share our family's "mostest" favorite recipe for using apples... Apple Crisp. This recipe originally came from an early 70s Betty Crocker cookbook, but since my family LOVES the crispy top, over time I wound up doubling and even tripling the top. So, here is the double topping version of our Apple Crisp. We usually serve it with a scoop of Vanilla Ice Cream, and a shot of whipped cream. Enjoy!

APPLE CRISP
4 cups pared tart apples (about 4 medium)
1 1/2 cup brown sugar (packed)
1 cup Gold Medal Flour
1 cup oats
1 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon
1 teaspoon nutmeg
2/3 cup butter, softened

DIRECTIONS
Heat over to 375. Grease square pan, 8x8x2 inches. Place apples slices in pan. Mix remaining ingredients thoroughly. Sprinkle over apples.

Bake 30 minutes for until apples are tender and topping is golden brown. Serve warm with ice cream and/or whipped cream. It is also delicious plain.

 

Submitted by Kimara on Mon, 09/21/2009 - 15:31
in

Dress Up Vest Un-Pattern

Here is the Un-Pattern for the Child's Dress-Up Vest. (Why an UN-Pattern? Because you actually have to draw up your own pattern... we just tell you how we made ours).

For this project I used about 1 yard of Navy Corduroy and 1 Yard of a cotton print and 3 large silver buttons.

First I took the pattern I had made for the Pirate Shirt here (shown on top) and made some adjustments. I wanted the vest to be longer and the opening to be curved.

Leaving a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around (even on the fold for roominess) I cut out one back piece on the fold (without the cut away curve for the front). I then cut out two front pieces with the 1/2" seam allowance and I added another inch where the buttons would go for overlap.

Once I was happy with my vest pieces, I used them as a pattern to cut out my lining fabric to match.

With front sides together, sew up the top shoulder seams. Repeat with lining. (At this point I tried the vest on my boy and decided to shorten it up a bit. I made the adjustments to both the main fabric and lining).

Matching right sides together, pin the lining and main fabric together. You will get a wonky Y shape. Sew up everything but the SIDE SEAMS (the seams under the arms on both the front panels and back). Leave those open.

Pull the vest right side out through one of the side openings. Iron.

Outsides together, line up your side seams and sew. I also serged these seams but you could finish it even nicer with a Flat Fell Seam.

Now for some finishing touches. I cut out some squares for pockets. (I am only showing it on the liner side for better contrast so you can see the sizing).

I turned under and ironed the edges (twice at the top). I stitched along the top edge to hold the top edge down.

I centered the pocket pieces on the front vest panels and stitched in place.

For the finishing touch I sewed on 3 large silver buttons. I actually had room for four but only stitched a piece of string in the bottom position to make it look like a missing button (seems to me pirates would lose a few buttons along the way). I have not made the button holes on the other side yet but plan to at some point (actually I've never made button holes and figure I will hand it off to Gammy for that last bit).

Submitted by Michelle on Wed, 09/23/2009 - 07:15
in

Dress Up Vest

I got a chance to make Bug a darker vest for his pirate costume (check out the pirate shirt un-pattern here) and took a bunch of pictures along the way. Here is the Dress Up Vest Un-Pattern or you can find it in our Free Patterns Section. I will also be sharing the quick directions for making the sash and rings.

Submitted by Michelle on Wed, 09/23/2009 - 07:36
in

You Say Jack-O-Lantern, I Say Harvest Pumpkin!


You have heard us often talk about the many uses for our applique blocks... that's why we create so many of them. We've talked about enlarging them, reducing them, turning them into wood, stuffies, stencils or cross stitch. What we really haven't talked about, though, is how colors can dramatically change the look of the design.

I designed a pumpkin pattern, and through the use of color, (and a bit of "flair") gave our pumpkin design two completely different looks.

Our Jack-O-Lantern almost jumps off the screen, with it's vibrant oranges set against the drastic black. It "screams" Halloween night! Then, work the same design out of rust, browns and golds, and our pumpkin is warm and inviting... like a Thanksgiving dinner with loved ones! Rather a fun experiment in color, don't you think?

As always, the pumpkin was designed for a 6" x 6" block but can be enlarged or reduced to meet your needs. The Pumpkin Applique Block can be found HERE or in our FREE Applique Patterns. Enjoy!

We included several sets of Jack-O-Lantern mouths, noses and eyes in our directions, but if the "spirit" moves you, design your own, just like a real Jack-O-Lantern.

The harverst pumpkin would look great enlarged and appliqued to the front of a holiday apron using small print calicos. Or, reduce the pattern, and applique onto napkins. Lots of possible uses!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 09/24/2009 - 21:01
in

Wee Folk Kitchens

EDIT: Our Gingerbread Ghosts can be found HERE!
Yes, yes, yes. We know. Wee Folk Art IS a crafting blog. We share the projects we do with and for our families... all in an effort to enrich our lives. But cooking, gardening, baking, decorating... are all crafts... creative outlets... when done with spirit. For that reason we decided to try something new.

In our homes, we are driven by the seasons. The clothes we wear, the food we prepare, the music we listen to, heck, even the time we go to bed, are all influenced by the seasons. But no where is this influence more noticeable then in our cooking. Now is the time for our heavy spices... cinnamon, nutmeg, sage, ginger. Fall is the time for our big stock pots... pots that simmer sauces and soups, stews and ciders. And all the delicious fall produce... apples and pumpkins, squashes and cabbages. WE LOVE FALL FOOD!

So... here's the something new part. We are asking our readers... even you quiet ones... to share your favorite fall recipes. You know the ones I'm talking about. That 1 food that triggers the start of fall. The food that makes you think of leaf piles and football games. Cider Mills and Trick-or-Treating. Thanksgiving dinner at Grandmas and lunchbox surprises.

Got 1 or 2 of those? Might be a main dish like your chili that could take the skin off a football, your hot mulled cider-light on the hot-heavy on the mulled, the "never failed yet" dip you take to all get togethers, the bar cookie that you're always asked to share the recipe for or the ants on a log that your mom always packed in your 1st day of school lunchbox.

To participate, email weefolkart@yahoo.com your recipe to us and include:

1] the recipe
2] rate its difficulty to make
3] your name (a user name is just fine)
4] if you have a blog and would like us to share it, include it
5] a pic of the finished dish is you have it... no biggie if you don't
6] and any little anecdotal story you might have about the recipe

If we get enough people to participate, we will be tossing recipes on the blog between our regular crafts. 

I'm hoping many of you will take the time to participate. Michelle and I are always looking for our next family favorite!

EMAIL US AT: weefolkart@yahoo.com
  

Submitted by Kimara on Sat, 09/26/2009 - 14:23
in

Favorite Fall Recipes - Apple Crumble Cake


I would like to thank Katie for sharing her family’s recipe for Apple Crumble Cake. She made a comment about it on our Apple Appliqué Block, and I asked her if she would share. She did and I made the Apple Crumble yesterday. It was a monumental success! My 8 year old niece told me it was the best cake she ever had. Hey, that’s saying something, right? Just an FYI thing. I am including the recipe supplied by Katie. I am including her notes at the end. You will notice that I included in parentheses the tablespoon equivalents that I used for butter. This definitely was an easy recipe to prepare. I must admit when I “squished” it in the pan, it didn’t seem like there was enough batter to hold it together... but I was wrong. It turned out to be a surprisingly firm cake. I also took Katie’s recommendation and doubled the topping. Definitely the way to go. So... if you get a chance, try this! It smells like fall and tastes like heaven. Enjoy!

Apple Crumble Cake

Cut 3 large apples into bite size pieces (skin on or off, your choice) and mix with
115 grams of melted butter (8 tablespoons = 1 stick)
1 egg
1.5 cups of plain flour
1 cup of raw sugar
1 teaspoon of baking powder
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
0.5 teaspoon of nutmeg
0.5 teaspoon of mixed spice

Stir thoroughly, squish into a greased cake tin and bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 40-45 minutes. (350 degrees Fahrenheit.)

Topping
Mix together in a bowl
0.5 cup of brown sugar
0.5 cup of oats
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
30 grams of melted butter (2 tablespoons)

Sprinkle topping over cake and bake for a further 10-15 minutes.

The kids love it when you double the topping. I also make this in muffin tins but be sure that they are greased really well and that you do not fill them too deep as the topping mixture needs to fit within the paper case if you are planning on transporting them anywhere, picnics etc.

I hope that you enjoy! I still remember as a child mounding up the autumn leaves and flopping down into them! I am a little too afraid of hitting the ground these days 

PS Australian measurements given; so an egg weighs 60 grams, 1 cup equals 250 millilitres and 1 teaspoon equals 5 millilitres. We always work on the basis that 30 grams equals one ounce.

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 09/27/2009 - 17:55
in

Wooden Autumn Forest


It's autumn in the Thicket and the gnomes enjoy a quiet stroll in the colorful autumn woods. Using our Wooden Autumn Forest pattern, make a tree or an entire forest for your gnomes and fairies or use them here and there around the house to simply enhance your Fall decor.

Our Autumn Forest pattern includes the template for cutting out the small and large trees. For general directions and for the pattern for the small and large bases, use the tutorial for the Wooden Apple Orchard. These trees work well with Ostherimer and Holztiger pieces and with dollhouses and gnome dwellings. Get the pattern for the Wooden Autumn Forest HERE and the general directions for making wooden toys HERE. Enjoy!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!
http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Mon, 09/28/2009 - 06:38
in

Free Desktop Wallpapers

Here are some Free Desktop Wallpapers that you can download to dress up your computer. We will occasionally be adding images so check back for seasonal updates.

To get your Wee Folk Art Wallpaper: First pick out your favorite image. Then choose your screen size. Click on the link. When the whole images loads, right click on the image and set as desktop background. Enjoy!

Autumn Forest Desktop Wallpaper

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200

Apple Orchard Desktop Wallpaper

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200

Gourd Ghost Sculpture Desktop Wallpaper

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200
1650x1080

Valentine Gnome Home

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200
1650x1080

Rainbow Gnomes Front

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200
1650x1080

Rainbow Gnomes Back

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200
1650x1080

Rainbow Yarn

800x600
1024x768
1280x1024
1600x1200
1650x1080

Submitted by Michelle on Mon, 09/28/2009 - 09:11
in

Desktop Wallpapers


I am beyond excited about our latest addition to Wee Folk Art. Michelle took a couple of our fall projects and turned them into desktop wallpapers. Personally, I've been using some of our photos as wallpaper for some time, but she actually took the time to do it right! So, if you'd like to get just a little more Wee Folk Art in your life... download one of our new desktop wallpapers. Right now Michelle has posted 2. But now that this is a feature we will be offering, I'm sure the graphic artist in her will be inspired and we can expect additional wallpapers soon. The plan is to have seasonal and thematic wallpapers. To get your desktop wallpaper, click on the tab at the top of your page and make your choice. Hope you like!

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 09/29/2009 - 09:50
in

Favorite Fall Recipes

Have a recipe that just screams Fall? That one recipe that triggers the changing of the season? Might be a baked good, might be a hardy stew. If you'd like to share it with us and our readers, email the recipe to us at weefolkart@yahoo.com. Include your name, can be a user name, your blog if you'd like it included, obviously, the recipe, its difficulty rating, a photo if you have one (although not necessary), and any other info about the recipe or why it's become a family favorite. We will tuck these recipes on the site between crafting blogs. We hope many of you will share your family favorites! Yum, right?

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 09/30/2009 - 05:48
in

Favorite Fall Recipes - Mulligatawny Soup

We would like to thank Stacy for sharing this recipe for Mulligatawny Soup. I Love Mulligatawny soup. We use to vacation every year in Vermont, and there was a restaurant that had this on its menu. I'd think about it throughout the year, and it was always one of the first things I ate when we got to Stowe. Never made it myself... I will now! Here is Stacy's recipe and her comments.

My mother was not a very adventurous cook. She made basic meatloaf, pot roast and tuna casseroles because my dad had "simple tastes". She found this recipe for Mulligatawny Soup in one of her women's magazines, and something about it caught her fancy. I remember she had to go out and buy curry powder. I think she was as surprised as anyone when my dad actually liked it! It became the one "exotic" dish she made. As the years went on, she got a little heavy handed on the curry, and I know I liked it even more. But I'm including the original recipe.

As soon as fall hits, this is the first cool weather food we make. It is a fairly easy recipe. The recipe says it feeds 8 but if you're using it as a meal, like we do, I think 6. I hope everyone enjoys it.

MULLIGATAWNY SOUP

Ingredients:
1/2 cup butter
1 cup diced onions
2 diced carrot
4 diced celery ribs
3 tablespoons flour
4 teaspoons curry powder
8 cups chicken broth
2 bay leaves
1/2 cup diced tart apple
1 cup boiled rice
1 cup cooked chicken, shredded
1/4 teaspoon thyme
2 teaspoons salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind
1 cup hot cream or unsweetened coconut milk

Directions:
Sauté onions, carrots, and celery in butter.

Stir in the flour and curry powder and cook for about 3 minutes.

Pour in the broth and bay leaf and simmer for 15 minutes.

Add apples, rice, chicken, salt, pepper, thyme, and lemon rind. Cook for an additional 15 minutes.

Stir in hot cream or coconut milk right before serving.

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 09/30/2009 - 17:22
in