Kimara's blog

Waldorf Meets the Muppets :: Knit Doll Pattern

Last week Meghan and I were talking about Christmas gifts for the wee ones. She said the Little Guy was always running off with the Little Lady's doll that I made, and she wasn't were happy about sharing her dolly. Meghan suggested I make a doll for LG. I was all over that. I had already created a pattern for a knit-in-the-round doll, which can be found HERE, so all I had to do was create a pattern for pants and a sweater. In 2 days time I had made the doll, including the clothes. Yippie! Love when everything comes together quickly.

Just a comment about his hair... I used some fun yarns for his hair (more about that later.) My intention was to give him a haircut when I was done. When I saw his floppy mop, I said... Hey, he looks like Jon Bon Jovi! A young Bon Jovi! Before I had a chance to cut his locks, my family convinced me to leave Bonjovi's hair long and perky! It is awesome hair! It is so super soft and floppy. It is also very light weight so it doesn't weigh down his neck. I can always trim up his hair later, but for now he's a cross between a Waldorf doll and a Muppet! I'm sure the Little Lady will want the Little Guy to share Bonjovi with her :) 

The pattern for the doll can be found HERE. Make sure to add the belly button!

The pattern for adding the hair and face can be found HERE. Note: For Bonjovi's hair I used equal amounts of Lion Brand's "Romance" yarn in Champagne and Sensations' "Angel Hair" color #4729, cut in 6" lengths. I trimmed up the stragglers, but mostly left his hair alone.

Yarn for Sweater:
Worsted weight yarn - I prefer to use wool because it stands up to play better than acrylics which tend to ball up over time.

Needles:
Size US 6 needles or needles that fit the gauge. You will need double-pointed needles for the pant legs. I used double-pointed needles for knitting the sweater, too.

Gauge:
22 stitches and 28 rows = 4" square in stockinette stitch

Abbreviations:
CO = Cast On
BO = Bind Off
St st = Stockinette stitch

NOTE: This pattern has not been tried by anyone else. We've made every effort to be clear and mistake free, but please be tolerant :) If you find a mistake, please let us know asap so we can fix it. Remember, you are our beta testers! We have no editors to help us ;)

SWEATER

The sweater body is knit flat beginning with the front. The front and back have a rib stitch at the bottom, the rest of the sweater is knit in the stockinette stitch. (Knit one row, Purl one row.)

Sweater Body
CO 34 stitches with gold yarn.

Rows 1 - 4
Odd rows K2, *P2, K2 repeat from * to end of row.
Even rows P2, *K2, P2 repeat from * to end of row.

Rows 5 - 10
Continuing with gold yarn, begin knitting in stockinette stitch (St st), knitting odd rows (right side) and purling even rows (wrong side).

Rows 11 - 14
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 15 - 16
Switch to cream yarn.

Rows 17 - 22
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 23 - 24
Switch to gold yarn.

Rows 25 - 26
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 27 - 36
Switch to gold yarn.

Row 37
K15, BO6, K13. (There should be 14 stitches on either side of the center bind off stitches.

You will now be working the right shoulder (left side when looking at the sweater) Row numbers will indicate you are working on the right. i.e. Row 38R. Leave the 14 stitches from the left side on the needle but you will not be working them at this time.

Row 38R
Purl 14

Row 39R
BO6, K7. (8 stitches remain)

Row 40R - 42R
Continue in St st. Cut yarn leaving tail.

You will now be working the left shoulder (right side when looking at the sweater) Row numbers will indicate you are working on the left. i.e. Row 38L. Leave the 8 stitches from the right side on the needle but you will not be working them at this time.

Row 38L
BO6, P7. (8 stitches remain)

Row 39L - 42L
Continue in St st.

Row 43
You will now be working both sides again. K8 (left shoulder), CO(cast on)18, K8 (right shoulder). You are now back to your original number of stitches (34).

Rows 44 - 54
Continue in St st.

Rows 55 - 56
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 57 - 58
Switch to gold yarn.

Rows 59 - 64
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 65 - 66
Switch to cream yarn.

Rows 67 - 70
Switch to blue yarn.

Rows 71 - 76
Switch to gold yarn.

Rows 77 - 80
Odd rows K2, *P2, K2 repeat from * to end of row.
Even rows P2, *K2, P2 repeat from * to end of row.

Row 81
BO in rib pattern.

Sleeves:
Row 1
With gold yarn, from the right side of the sweater, Pick up 34 stitches along a shoulder. (Note: Pick up 1 stitch from each row, centered at the shoulder. i.e. 17 stitches from the front of the sweater and 17 stitches from the back.)

Rows 2 - 10
Work in St st.

Rows 11 - 16
Odd rows K2, *P2, K2 repeat from * to end of row.
Even rows P2, *K2, P2 repeat from * to end of row..

Row 17
CO in rib pattern.

Make other sleeve in the same manner.

Assembling sweater:
Fold in half at the shoulder. Sew side and sleeve seams. Tie off and work in any loose threads.

Neckline:
Using double pointed needles, from the front side, Pick Up 46 stitches around the neckline (basically, every other stitch), place marker. You will now be knitting in the round.

Rows 1 - 3
K1, P1 repeat to end of row.

Row 4
CO in rib pattern.

Tie off and work in any loose threads.

PANTS

The pants are knit in the round using size US6, douple-pointed needles.

CO 60 stitches. Divide on 3 or 4 needles, join, and place marker.

Seat:
Rows 1 - 6
K2, P2, repeat to end of row. (This forms the waistband.)

Rows 7 - 26

Place 30 stitches on holder. Divide the remaining 30 stitches on 3 double-pointed needles. (Each leg is worked independantly.)

Legs:
Rows 1 - 10
K row

Rows 11 - 15
K1, P1 repeat to end of row.

Row 16
BO in rib pattern.

Pick up the 30 stitches from the holder and knit the other leg.

Tie off and work in any loose ends. There will be a small hole between the legs that you will need to sew.


 

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2013. All rights reserved.
 
Photos 11/19/13

 

Piggy Applique Block

The question... which came first, the chicken or the egg?... is a debate best left for scholars, BUT, I can answer this question... which came first, the Pig Pull Toy (aka Pulled Pork) or this Little Piggy Applique Block?... and the answer is... the applique. I did a series of 4 barnyard animals for another project, and when the time came to make a pull toy for Little Guy's 1st birthday, I immediately thought of this applique. I simply had to enlarge the pattern and cut it out of wood. Like all of our appliques, it was designed to fit on a 6" x 6" block, but it can be enlarged or reduced to meet your needs. Bet you can think of someplace to put this Little Piggy, right? Enjoy!

The pattern for the Little Piggy Applique Block can be found HERE.

The tutorial on How to Enlarge and Reduce can be found HERE.

The tutorial on How to Cut Out Felt can be found HERE.

The Stitching Glossary can be found HERE.

DIRECTIONS - Refer to pattern and photo for applique placements and cutting instructions.

Make a copy of the pattern.

Cut out felt. Transfer any embroidery markings.

Using a blanket stitch, sew body to block using 3 strands floss.

Using a blanket stitch at the top and bottom of pig and a running stitch on either side of the stripe, sew stripe to body using 3 strands floss.

Using a blanket stitch, sew rear leg to pig using 3 strands floss.

Using a running stitch, sew ear to pig using 2 strands floss.

Using a blanket stitch, sew front leg to pig using 3 strands floss.

Using a stem stitch, embroider tail using 6 strands floss.

French knot an eye using 6 strands floss.
 

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2013. All rights reserved.

 

PHOTO: 1-30-10
 

Pig Pull Toy aka Pulled Pork

"With an oink, oink, here and an oink, oink there"... sing along... you know the rest! What could be more fun for a new walker than a little piggy to take for a walk? This year, for the Little Guy's first birthday, we wanted to make him a wooden pull toy. When we decided on a pig, the name "Pulled Pork" seemed self evident! Whether you know of a wee one that would love to run around with this barnyard favorite or you'd like it just to sit on a shelf, keeping you company, this is the pig for you! BTW... that fact that the Little Guy is running down the halls yet doesn't seem to be a problem... seems that Pulled Pork is just as happy being Pushed Pork!

***IMPORTANT: To read the official federal regulations for cord length in children's toys, follow this link HERE. Make your own decisions concerning the length of the cord and whether or not you wish to add a handle after reading the article.

Materials:
wood - Most of our wood projects are cut from 1" woods. (i.e. 1" x 8", etc.) I have used pine, popular, oak and maple. The harder the wood, the more durable the project, but harder it is to cut.
paint - non toxic - I used milk paint for the pig
permanent black marker (optional)
wood finish - non toxic
wood glue 
2 5/8" wooden wheels and 3/8" axles
sisal - 5" of 1/4"
1/2" x 3" dowel rod for handle (optional)
leather cording or other suitable material for pull
pattern 

Tools and equipment:
scroll saw
dremel (optional - can sand if you do not have a dremel)
fine sandpaper - I used a sponge sandpaper block
safety glasses and face mask (a must if you are using a dremel)
wide packing tape to reinforce pattern (optional)

Directions:
Read the general directions for How To Cut Out Wood found HERE.

Make a copy of the pattern.

Cut out wood, and sand edges. Follow the grain line on the legs when positioning the leg pattern on the wood. This will give extra strength to the legs.  Note: When sanding the legs and ears, lightly sand the edges that will be glued to the body of the pig. DO NOT use the dremel on these edges as you will want them to lie flat against the pig's body.

Cut out the base 5" X 8". When sanding the base, I purposely made the edges uneven to give a well-used look to the toy.

Using the pattern as a guide, paint the pig. I used milk paints. After the paint was dried, I lightly sanded the surface. I wanted to give our pig an old world "aged" look. Do not apply any finish to the pig at this time.

Paint wheels and axles.

Instead of painting on the eyes or snout, I used a black permanent Sharpie marker. (Note: this is easiest to do BEFORE you glue the pig together. Oops... I forgot so I did mine after I glued it together. Just make sure you do it BEFORE you seal the wood.)

Using the pattern for placement, glue on the ears and legs. Probably the trickiest park of this whole thing is getting the legs positioned so all 4 legs will touch the ground and be level. After the legs dry, if they are off a little, you can sand them. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT THE PIG STANDS LEVEL BEFORE YOU GLUE THEM TO THE STAND. If the legs aren't even, they will not make good contact with the base and the pig will not be glued on securely!

Using the pattern as a guide, drill the hole for the tale 1/2" deep, using a 1/4" drill bit.

Using your wood finish, seal the pig BUT DO NOT APPLY SEALER TO THE BOTTOM OF THE LEGS. The wood glue will work better on raw wood. DO NOT SEAL THE BASE YET, either.

On the base, mark and drill 4 holes for the wheels, 2 on each long side. Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill the holes 1" deep. The holes should be 2" from the front and back of base. (Note: the axles are 3/8" wide. You may need to make the holes SLIGHTLY bigger, by moving the drill around in the hole, to accommodate the axle and the glue, BUT you want them to fit snug.) Drill one hole on centered on the top of base on one of the short sides, 1" from the edge. This will be for the pull cord.

Position the pig on the base. You can use a tape measure to make sure it is centered on the wood. Lightly mark the placement of the legs.

Glue the pig to the base following the position markings you created in the previous step. Allow to dry completely before you continue.

Apply finish to the base. BTW... if you would like, on the bottom of the base, use a permanent marker to write a personalize message or to sign and date. Do this BEFORE you apply a finish.

Apply finish to the wheels and axles.

Cut a piece of 1/2" dowel rod 3" long. Drill a 1/4" hole in the center. Lightly sand the rod's edges and hole. I did not paint or finish the handle. I wanted the oil from wee hands to finish it naturally :)

Thread the cording through the front hole, top to bottom, and knot the cord so it will not pull through.

Tie the other end of the cord through the opening on the dowel rod.

Glue on the wheels. To do this, apply glue inside a hole.

Place spaces, like washers or nickels, on either side of the hole. When you push the axle and wheel all the way into the hole, this will keep the wheel away from the base, allowing the wheel to spin freely.

To make the tail, cut the sisal 5" long. I placed a small amount of tape on the end that I was going to glue to the pig. This stopped it from fraying and made it easier to slide in the hole.

Place a small amount of glue on the other end to stop it from fraying. You are going to curl the tail. Place glue on the sisal, curl the tail around, and use a clip to hold in place until the glue dries. 

Place glue in the hole and slide the tail in.

All done and ready to be played with!

 

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2013. All rights reserved.

Photos 9-5-13, 9-23-13

 
 

Fondant Gnomes

When Bug was a wee lad, he refused to eat ANYTHING with a face. And I'm not talking about just "mooers" and "cluckers"... if a food item was designed with a face, he couldn't bring himself to chomp it. I remember the trauma of being served ...a side helping of tater tots shaped like smiley faces with his grilled cheese at a restaurant. Niagara Falls! You had to respect his sensibilities!

Well, we aren't vegetarians, and eventually Bug moved on, but whenever I see edible food that resembles a living thing, I am reminded of a young Bug! BTW... he is still very sensitive and compassionate! Wonderful qualities, indeed!

Having said all that, when I saw these fondant gnomes this morning, I could feel the insulin in my body start to bubble, and I'm desperately trying to decide how I can work them into an up and coming celebration! They are so stinkin' cute! I can just see them on top of a cake or cupcakes... maybe with some marzipan mushrooms? My mind is spinning!

Unfortunately, I was not able to come up with a satisfactory link to these cuties. The watermark on the photo brings you to Sugar High, Inc. http://www.sugarhighinc.com/, and the site is a business for fondant cake toppers, but I could not find these sweet little guys here, so I don't know if she made them or found them on another site. If you know anything more about these, please share : )

As for making these yourself, just follow our tutorial for making Paper Clay Gnomes (obviously, substituting fondant for clay, hehe) http://weefolkart.com/content/paperclay-gnomes-course and add details.

And, unless you have a wee one with an aversion to faces, I think these would be a big hit!

~Kimara~

Photo... origin is uncertain!

Reprinted on Facebook 10-14-13

Watercolor Progress Report

Although it may not seem so on Wee Folk Art, our summer was filled with much artistic expression. I've just been really, really selfish with my time, and haven't been sharing all our endeavors online, but when the fall rolls around, I'm always so much better at spending time at my computer, so I'll be sharing lots over the next several weeks :)

First off, I want to thank all you dear hearts that have emailed me with inquires about my watercolor progress. If you haven't done so already, you might wish to read these blog entries: Diving Into Watercolors and  Natural Versus Learned Talents where I talk about my "brush" with watercolors. It's been an unrequited desire of mine for decades, so it's been an exciting journey to finally open the paints and start exploring.

So, for those of you that have asked, or for anyone interested, I am sharing my watercolors NOT because I think they are spectacular... I have much to learn... but to hopefully encourage those of you that have yet to try some artistic endeavor, to just jump in! If I'm never great, I am enjoying each and every brush stroke! So, here are pages out of my journals, assignments really, and a couple paintings for all my girl grandbabies :)

To begin with, I've been playing with colors. These first view watercolors are just experimenting with various color schemes. Here are some samples of each:

Monochromatic: Blues

Complementary: red and green

Analogous Colors: Orange, yellow/orange, yellow

Primary and Secondary colors: red/yellow/blue and purple/green/orange

One of the things I wanted to be able to do was to Nature Journal, especially going into my own yard and painting the abundant flora and fauna that I see each day. Here are pages out of my journal... real life drawings and paintings.

Finally, here are some Journal Page type drawings/watercolors, that were painted for the girls' rooms. I had fun doodling then painting.

Pixie:

Fairy:

Little Lady (not framed yet)

Lots to learn, but I have a lifetime :) It truly has turned into a true joy. I'll share more another time.

Photos: 9-7-13, 9-7-13
 

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