Michelle's blog

Here are the directions for turning those freezer paper stenciled blocks into a toasty warm blankie. Of course, you are welcome to make up your own quilt pattern, too. Just a head's up, this isn't a step-by-step tutorial on how to quilt (I didn't take photos along the way and actually... this is a pretty old project, completed a couple cameras ago, so please forgive the photos ;) ... but I do have all the measurements and such that you will need to recreate the snowflake lap quilt. If you need more advice on how to quilt, check out our Quilting Basics Series or read over our Pinwheel Quilt Tutorial for help :)

Snowflake Freezer Paper Stenciled Lap Quilt... Finished size approx. 46" X 67"

Materials Needed:
FABRIC...
Navy A - 1/2yd
Navy B - 1/2yd
Navy C - 1/2yd
White - 1 2/3yd
Med Blue - 2 2/3yd

White Fabric Paint
Stencil Brush
Freezer paper
Batting
Embroidery Floss (gold)
Embroidery Floss (med blue - opt)
Embroidery Hoop
Thread to match
Snowflake Pattern (120%)
click here for tips on enlarging
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Pre-Wash Fabric (very important!) Due to the high contrast of Navy and White I also used a 1/4 cup of vinegar when washing the blues to help color set the fabric. Remove fabric promptly from the dryer to reduce/eliminate wrinkles. Iron if needed.

Cutting Directions:

Medium Blue:
Cut Two Pieces 34.5" wide by 47" long for backing
Cut 15 squares 3" x 3"

Navy (each):
Cut 2 strips 9" x 42", then trim to eight 9" x 9" squares
(you need 24 Navy 9" x 9" squares total)

White:
Cut 2 strips 5" x 60"
Cut 2 strip 5" x 47"
Cut 7 strips 3" x 60" then trim strips to 3" x 9" (need 38)

Quilt Directions:

Stencil the Snowflake design on 12 of the Navy squares (4 of each color) following our Snowflake Stencil directions.

Assemble the quilt top following the pattern chart bellow using a 1/2" seam allowance (the stars represent the snowflakes).

Add backing and batting (you can follow the backing/batting directions from our Pinwheel Quilt pattern). You will need to sew the two pieces of medium blue together to make a backing large enough to fit (approx 68" x 47").

Use safety pins to hold the layers in place while you quilt.

Quilt around each snowflake with gold floss.

I also used a wax pencil and traced a snowflake in center of each plain navy square. (Very hard to see in photos!) I quilted the snowflake in those squares with navy thread.

I also used 6 stranded of blue embroidery floss to tie off the small medium blue squares and white floss to tie the border.

Now, grab a book, some steamy hot beverage, and snuggle under your new Snowflake Lap Quilt!

Once you learn this technique for making freezer paper stencils, you'll find a 101 ways to use them. It is a fast, inexpensive technique that allows you to make more detailed designs than traditional appliqueing will allow. Materials listed below are to go with our Snowflake Quilt. The pattern for that will be available later in the week.

Note: The paint can bleed through your fabric, so if you are stenciling a t-shirt or other clothing, make sure to place a heavy piece of paper inside your shirt so the paint does not bleed through from the front to the back. 

Materials:
12 Navy 9" Squares of Fabric
Freezer Paper
Snowflake Pattern Copied on Card stock at 120% (click here for tips on enlarging)
White Fabric Paint (preferably one that has you iron to set the color)
Sponge Stencil Brush
Small, Sharp Scissors
Iron
pen

Wash your fabric! This step must not be skipped in order for the fabric paint to adhere. Due to the high contrast of Navy and White I also used a 1/4 cup of vinegar when washing the blues to help color set the fabric. Remove fabric promptly from the dryer to reduce/eliminate wrinkles. Iron if needed.

Cut out 24 9" Navy Squares (I used three different navy fabrics and cut out 4 from each print). Set aside 12 squares (2 from each print).

Cut out 12 8" squares of freezer paper. I cut mine as I would fabric with a rotary blade.

Lay 2 freezer paper squares on top of each other, wax to wax so they don't slip, and then carefully fold the squares in half. Repeat 5 more times.

Cut out Snowflake Pattern (enlarged 120%) on Card Stock. Fold the snowflake in half with one set of the mid points standing straight up/down.

Carefully center the pattern piece onto the folded freezer paper, aligning the folded sides together. Trace the snowflake half onto the folded freezer paper. Cut out the freezer paper... keeping the negative portion (ie the outside portion not the flake). Remember to save the center piece of the snowflake (the little hexagon)! I found that by folding the two square of freezer paper together wax to wax they did  not slip and I was able to cut out two at a time. If you find this awkward you can do each one separately.

Once you have all your stencils cut out it is time to iron them onto your fabric squares. Set you iron to the hottest non-steam setting. Iron your fabric square to be sure it is smooth. Then center the freezer paper stencil onto your fabric square. Right side of fabric up, wax side of freezer paper down. You should have a half inch border around the stencil to help you align your stencil properly. Iron your stencil in place. Be sure to add your little hexagon piece (note keep the little hexagon rotated the same direction on all pieces... as shown it is parallel to the mid hexagon section of the snowflake body). Repeat 11 times.

Set up your paint work station. You will need a mat to keep your surface clean (a piece of freezer paper wax side up works well, uncurl it by rolling it in the opposite direction), your fabric paint in a flat bottom paint pallet (again you can use the freezer paper wax side up on a plate), a sponge stencil brush and a flat surface for your squares to dry on (I used basic cookie racks).

Dip the brush in the paint, dab it off on the side of the pallet to reduce excess paint, and apply to the fabric square in an even up and down motion. Do not slide the brush or you will pull up the edges of the stencil, be especially carefully around the center piece. Repeat until the entire snowflake has been covered in an even coat of paint. You can try different amounts of paint for different effects. I was happy with a single coat with some fabric visible through the paint, if you would prefer a more opaque design you can apply a second coat after the first coat dries.

Move the square to a drying rack, wipe down your work surface and continue with the next fabric square. Be sure to follow the directions on your fabric paint bottle for drying instructions. Ours required 24 hours of air drying time followed by ironing with a piece of fabric over the design to set the color. Once the paint is dry to the touch you can remove the freezer paper.

Now you are ready to begin on your quilt.

On a cold winter afternoon, there is nothing like snuggling into your favorite reading corner with a cup of hot tea and a snowflake inspired lap quilt. Enjoy a good book or surfing your favorite blogs while staying toasty warm.

For a fun twist on a classic appliqued quilt we used Freezer Paper Stencils to create our snowflake designs instead of appliqued fabric. Once you learn this fun technique you will be using it to add your own personal touch to all kinds of fabric items... from t-shirts to tote bags. We will be using it to create the 12 snowflake squares needed for the Snowflake Lap Quilt.

Next week we will share the freezer paper stencil technique and directions for making your very own Snowflake Quilt. 

Click Here for the Snowflake Applique Block
Click Here for the Snowflake Stencil Directions
Click Here (coming soon) for the Snowflake Lap Quilt Pattern

We would like to introduce a new series that we will be running throughout the year. We like to call it Out of the Block. We have many fans of our ever growing applique collection... but are also often asked "what do you do with all those blocks?" This is a question that sometimes leaves us puzzled... because the way we look at it is "what can't you do with an applique block?" So to everyone who has thought our appliques are cute but have yet to find a use for them... or has a hard time imagining using them in any other way than they were originally designed, we are challenging you to think Out of the Block! 

We will be sharing our first project later in the week.

We have already learned the Backwards Loop Cast On method. That is a great technique to know if you need to cast on stitches in the middle of a project but it isn't generally the method you will want to use to start a project. It tends to create a loose cast on edge that is difficult to work with on the first row. It also does not stretch much... stretch is good especially on any type of cuffs (mittens, hats, sleeves, etc). I taught it first just because it is easier to teach and to get everyone knitting quickly.

Now I'm going to teach you a more versatile, more commonly used method of casting on called the Long Tail method. The Long Tail method creates a much nicer finished, stretchy edge. The trick here is just figuring out how long of a tail you need when you get started.

For this method of casting on, you need start by estimating how much yarn you will need to cast on all your stitches. For worsted weight yarn on size 8 needles 12 inches of yarn will give you approximately 20 stitches. Be sure to give yourself a little extra for a tail too.

There is nothing so frustrating as casting a couple hundred stitches for a blanket and realizing that you didn't give yourself a long enough tail and have to start all over. On the flip side... no one wants to waste yarn leaving a super long tail. You will get better at estimating tail length over time. One tip is to try wrapping the yarn around your needle and measuring how long of a strand of yarn it takes to make 20 wraps.

Once you have estimated how long of a tail you need, create a slip-knot (or you can just cast on the first stitch). Place it on your needle with the tail yarn closer to you, the live yarn in the back.

Hold the needle in your right hand. With your left hand, slip your index finger and thumb in between the yarn strands. Use your two or three other fingers to hold the yarn strands in place in your palm.

Spread out your thumb and index finger to make a Y shape. Tip the Y back slightly so you can see the yarns easier.

Slide the needle along your thumb under the yarn loop in an upward motion (the blue strand).

Reach the tip of the needle back and hook the yarn (from right to left) that is laying on the front of your index finger (the purple strand).

Slip that index finger yarn loop (purple), under the middle of the thumb loop (blue).

Slowly drop your thumb down and let that yarn fall free, creating a loop around the index yarn (the purple stitch).

Tighten your new stitch by tugging slightly on the yarn tail. Do not drop the yarn tails.  Slip your thumb back between the yarn strands. Tip the Y shape back and you are ready to cast on another stitch.