Knitting & Crocheting

Hairpin Lace Part 3 of 4 - Joining the Strips


Finally, step 3... joining the strips. It is now time for your project to take shape. There are some people that wait until they have finished all their strips before they start joining them. Not me... that whole immediate gratification thing I've got going. I need to feel a sense of accomplishment, and I'm not above rejoicing with baby steps! Joining the strips is as easy as 1, 2, 3... quite literally. I LOVE this part!!! The last part of the tutorial, Finishing Your Project and Project Ideas, should be finished by the end of the week. Watch for it.  

1] Working from the left side of your project, lay 2 completed strips side by side. Unroll just enough of the the strips so you can work with them, being very careful not to twist the strips.

For the complete tutorial, click HERE.

Hairpin Lace Part 2 of 4 - Crocheting the Strips


The basic premise behind hairpin lace is that you make a series of individual strips, the width and length is dependent on the project you make. After the strips are made, they are joined together to make your final project. After you learn the basics, have fun experimenting with different weights of yarn and different loom setting. Within a project, you can even have 2 or 3 different strip widths as long as the type of yarn you use remains the same. In making my afghan, I used worsted yarn, set my loom at 4", and used a size I crochet hook. So, let's get started.

1] Set your loom to the desired width, and set it on the table in front of you.

2] Slide the yarn under the loom with the attached ball of yarn on the right.

3] Cross the yarns over one another making an "x".  The yarn tail should be over the attached yarn. Leave your yarn tail 8" - 10" long.

4] From the bottom, slide the yarn tail behind the attached yarn and the straight piece of yarn that spans from rod to rod.

5] Tie a single knot centered on the loom. The yarn tale should now be at the bottom and the attached yarn at the top.

6] Make sure the knot is tight, but do not make the loops so tight that they pull in the side rods on the loom. The rods should always be parallel to one another, not bowing inward.

7] Drop the yarn tail to the bottom, and holding on to the attached yarn, cross it over the right loom rod.

8] Bring the yarn to the back of the loom and hold it with your left hand. Hint: I found the yarn easiest to control if I hold the yarn in my three bottom fingers, and around my index finger. You will be hooking yarn off your index finger. This feels awkward at first, but it helps to control the tension.

9] Holding the yarn in back with your left hand, slide your crochet hook in the center of the left loop, coming up from the bottom.

10] Grab the yarn off your index finger with the crochet hook.

11] Pull the stitch through holding it close the the middle knot.

12] Wrap the yarn around the back of the hook,

13] then pull it through the stitch on the hook. Note: It is only on this first set of loops that you will be working with one stitch. All additional loops will have 2 stitches on the crochet hook.

14] While holding your work with your left hand, pass the bottom of the crochet hook to the back of the loom.

15] Grab the crochet hook back in your right hand.

16] Turn the loom over clockwise. Continue to hold the yarn in your left hand and the crochet hook in your right hand. This is going to feel awkward at first, but not to worry, before long you will develop your own rhythm and it will be one smooth continuous action.

17] Slide your crochet hook in the center of the left loop, coming up from the bottom.

18] Grab the yarn off your index finger with the crochet hook.

19] Pull the stitch through the loop, holding it close the the middle knot. You will now have 2 stitches on your crochet hook.

20] Wrap the yarn around the back of the hook,

21] then pull it through both stitches on the crochet hook.

22] Continue steps 14 through 21 until you have the desired number of loops on the loom.

Counting Loops:
Because you will undoubtedly wind up with many loops on your loom (the afghan I'm making requires 348 loops, per side, per strip), you will want some short cuts for counting so you don't need to count both sides, and so you're not recounting your loops over and over again.

1] Make several counter loops. You will need 1 for each 50 loops you plan to crochet on the loom. To do this, simply cut a length of scrap yarn about 6" - 8" and knot the 2 ends together.

2] When you've placed about 10 loops on each side of the loom, stop. You should have finished the loop that is facing you. Lay the loom on the table in front of you. Count the loops on each rod. The number should be the same. If you have one more on one side, crochet one more loop, then lay the loom on the table again. The yarn tail, or bottom, should be closest to you.

3] Slide the top of a counter loop that you made in step 1 through a loop on the left side of the loom. Bring the ends up through the counter loop, and pull the ends so the loop hugs the loop. Do not make it tight. You will be removing it when you are done with the strip. From now on, you will only need to count the loops on the left side of the loom, as long as this counter loop is visible on the left, and you have completed the stitch at the top of the loom.

4] Place a marker every 50 loops. Remove the first counter loop you placed on the loom in step 3.

5] When you have crocheted all of your loops, remove the counter loops before proceeding.

Finishing a strip:
1] When you have the desired number of loops on your loom, cut your attached yarn, leaving a 8" - 10" tail. Slide the new yarn tail through your last loop that was on your crochet hook.

2] Pull firmly.

3] Carefully slide the spacer bar off the bottom or top of the loom. Lay the loom on the table with the side with the removed space bar closest to you.

4] Roll up the strip being careful not to twist the strip. Wrap the tail around the strip and set aside until you are ready to start joining the strips. 

In part 3, we will learn how to attach the strips and in part 4, how to finish a project.

Part 1 - The Loom

Part 2 - Crocheting the Strips

Part 3 - Joining the Strips

Part 4 - Finishing the Project

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Hairpin Lace Part 2 of 4 - Crocheting the Strips


I have finally finished the tutorial for Part 2, Crocheting the Strips, and all I have to say is "Holy Schnikes"! I swear the project itself is extremely easy, but writing the tutorial was a tad bit overwhelming! There are almost 40 photos! I try to be detail minded when I write tutorials so our beginning crafters and our global friends that can't read English can tackle our projects. So, for those of you that have been waiting, it's finally good to go! There are 2 more parts to the tutorial. Part 3 focuses on joining the strips, and Part 4 shares how to finish your project. I'll get those up sometime in the next week. 

So, whether you are ready to learn how to crochet the strips, or just want to marvel at the colossal size of this tutorial, Part 2 of the Hairpin Lace Tutorial is available HERE or with our FREE patterns.   

  

A Few Days Break

For those of you waiting on pins and needles for the rest of the hairpin lace tutorial, SORRY! It is much more time consuming than I anticipated... although coming along well... but family obligations call so I'll be unavailable to work on it for the next few days. I will finish it and have it up next week. Hope everyone has a lovely weekend!

Hairpin Lace Part 1 of 4 - The Loom


Before you begin any hairpin lace project, you needle the hairpin lace needles, more appropriatiately called the Hairpin Lace Loom. You can either make your own, or purchase one. My mother first learned on a homemade loom my father made for her. I've always used the "store bought" version. Both will get the job done.

If you decide to purchase a loom, you can usually find them in the large craft stores or order them on line.

The stores in our area did not sell them so I ordered them through Amazon. These looms are adjustable. There are 4 parts to them; the 2 metal needles and the 2 cross bars.

The cross bars have mulitple holes in them allowing you to create lace strips 1 1/2" to 4" wide.

For the afghan I am making I have the loom set at 4". If you want a denser afghan, you simple move the needles to the holes that give you the desired width.

To make your own you will need 2 pieces of dowel rod 3/8" - 1/2" diameter, 4 1/2" long, a set of #5 or #6 knitting needles at least 12" long, and 4 rubberbands.

To make, cut 2 pieces of dowel rod 4 1/2". Using a drill bit the size of the needles, drill holes through the dowel rod. Use the illustration above for hole placement suggestions. MAKE SURE THE DOWEL DOES NOT TURN WHILE DRILLING. All holes must be drilled perpendicular to the same surface or the needles will not lay flat when inserted. Lightly sand the edges and holes so the wood is smooth.

When you insert your needles into the desired holes, the cross bars will begin to loosen and slide down your needles. Simply use rubberbands to secure the cross bars at the top and bottom of the needles.

Given the fact that the purchased looms only cost $4.50, it's probably not worth the hassel of making your own. Also, the plastic crossbars stay in place without rubberbands. But, if you are in a hurry to get started, and have the materials on hand, this is how my grandparent's generation made their own Hairpin Lace Looms.

Next time I will show you how to get started and how to make the strips.

Part 1 - The Loom

Part 2 - Crocheting the Strips

Part 3 - Joining the Strips

Part 4 - Finishing the Project

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2010. All rights reserved.
All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.
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