Quilting

Snowflake Quilt Pattern

Here are the directions for turning those freezer paper stenciled blocks into a toasty warm blankie. Of course, you are welcome to make up your own quilt pattern, too. Just a head's up, this isn't a step-by-step tutorial on how to quilt (I didn't take photos along the way and actually... this is a pretty old project, completed a couple cameras ago, so please forgive the photos ;) ... but I do have all the measurements and such that you will need to recreate the snowflake lap quilt. If you need more advice on how to quilt, check out our Quilting Basics Series or read over our Pinwheel Quilt Tutorial for help :)

Snowflake Freezer Paper Stenciled Lap Quilt... Finished size approx. 46" X 67"

Materials Needed:
FABRIC...
Navy A - 1/2yd
Navy B - 1/2yd
Navy C - 1/2yd
White - 1 2/3yd
Med Blue - 2 2/3yd

White Fabric Paint
Stencil Brush
Freezer paper
Batting
Embroidery Floss (gold)
Embroidery Floss (med blue - opt)
Embroidery Hoop
Thread to match
Snowflake Pattern (120%)
click here for tips on enlarging
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Pre-Wash Fabric (very important!) Due to the high contrast of Navy and White I also used a 1/4 cup of vinegar when washing the blues to help color set the fabric. Remove fabric promptly from the dryer to reduce/eliminate wrinkles. Iron if needed.

Cutting Directions:

Medium Blue:
Cut Two Pieces 34.5" wide by 47" long for backing
Cut 15 squares 3" x 3"

Navy (each):
Cut 2 strips 9" x 42", then trim to eight 9" x 9" squares
(you need 24 Navy 9" x 9" squares total)

White:
Cut 2 strips 5" x 60"
Cut 2 strip 5" x 47"
Cut 7 strips 3" x 60" then trim strips to 3" x 9" (need 38)

Quilt Directions:

Stencil the Snowflake design on 12 of the Navy squares (4 of each color) following our Snowflake Stencil directions.

Assemble the quilt top following the pattern chart bellow using a 1/2" seam allowance (the stars represent the snowflakes).

Add backing and batting (you can follow the backing/batting directions from our Pinwheel Quilt pattern). You will need to sew the two pieces of medium blue together to make a backing large enough to fit (approx 68" x 47").

Use safety pins to hold the layers in place while you quilt.

Quilt around each snowflake with gold floss.

I also used a wax pencil and traced a snowflake in center of each plain navy square. (Very hard to see in photos!) I quilted the snowflake in those squares with navy thread.

I also used 6 stranded of blue embroidery floss to tie off the small medium blue squares and white floss to tie the border.

Now, grab a book, some steamy hot beverage, and snuggle under your new Snowflake Lap Quilt!

Submitted by Michelle on Thu, 01/26/2012 - 06:38

Freezer Paper Snowflake Stencil

Once you learn this technique for making freezer paper stencils, you'll find a 101 ways to use them. It is a fast, inexpensive technique that allows you to make more detailed designs than traditional appliqueing will allow. Materials listed below are to go with our Snowflake Quilt. The pattern for that will be available later in the week.

Note: The paint can bleed through your fabric, so if you are stenciling a t-shirt or other clothing, make sure to place a heavy piece of paper inside your shirt so the paint does not bleed through from the front to the back.

Materials:
12 Navy 9" Squares of Fabric
Freezer Paper
Snowflake Pattern Copied on Card stock at 120% (click here for tips on enlarging)
White Fabric Paint (preferably one that has you iron to set the color)
Sponge Stencil Brush
Small, Sharp Scissors
Iron
pen

Wash your fabric! This step must not be skipped in order for the fabric paint to adhere. Due to the high contrast of Navy and White I also used a 1/4 cup of vinegar when washing the blues to help color set the fabric. Remove fabric promptly from the dryer to reduce/eliminate wrinkles. Iron if needed.

Cut out 24 9" Navy Squares (I used three different navy fabrics and cut out 4 from each print). Set aside 12 squares (2 from each print).

Cut out 12 8" squares of freezer paper. I cut mine as I would fabric with a rotary blade.

Lay 2 freezer paper squares on top of each other, wax to wax so they don't slip, and then carefully fold the squares in half. Repeat 5 more times.

Cut out Snowflake Pattern (enlarged 120%) on Card Stock. Fold the snowflake in half with one set of the mid points standing straight up/down.

Carefully center the pattern piece onto the folded freezer paper, aligning the folded sides together. Trace the snowflake half onto the folded freezer paper. Cut out the freezer paper... keeping the negative portion (ie the outside portion not the flake). Remember to save the center piece of the snowflake (the little hexagon)! I found that by folding the two square of freezer paper together wax to wax they did not slip and I was able to cut out two at a time. If you find this awkward you can do each one separately.

Once you have all your stencils cut out it is time to iron them onto your fabric squares. Set you iron to the hottest non-steam setting. Iron your fabric square to be sure it is smooth. Then center the freezer paper stencil onto your fabric square. Right side of fabric up, wax side of freezer paper down. You should have a half inch border around the stencil to help you align your stencil properly. Iron your stencil in place. Be sure to add your little hexagon piece (note keep the little hexagon rotated the same direction on all pieces... as shown it is parallel to the mid hexagon section of the snowflake body). Repeat 11 times.

Set up your paint work station. You will need a mat to keep your surface clean (a piece of freezer paper wax side up works well, uncurl it by rolling it in the opposite direction), your fabric paint in a flat bottom paint pallet (again you can use the freezer paper wax side up on a plate), a sponge stencil brush and a flat surface for your squares to dry on (I used basic cookie racks).

Dip the brush in the paint, dab it off on the side of the pallet to reduce excess paint, and apply to the fabric square in an even up and down motion. Do not slide the brush or you will pull up the edges of the stencil, be especially carefully around the center piece. Repeat until the entire snowflake has been covered in an even coat of paint. You can try different amounts of paint for different effects. I was happy with a single coat with some fabric visible through the paint, if you would prefer a more opaque design you can apply a second coat after the first coat dries.

Move the square to a drying rack, wipe down your work surface and continue with the next fabric square. Be sure to follow the directions on your fabric paint bottle for drying instructions. Ours required 24 hours of air drying time followed by ironing with a piece of fabric over the design to set the color. Once the paint is dry to the touch you can remove the freezer paper.

Now you are ready to begin on your quilt.

Submitted by Michelle on Sun, 01/22/2012 - 06:17

Out of the Block | Snowflake Stencil

On a cold winter afternoon, there is nothing like snuggling into your favorite reading corner with a cup of hot tea and a snowflake inspired lap quilt. Enjoy a good book or surfing your favorite blogs while staying toasty warm.

For a fun twist on a classic appliqued quilt we used Freezer Paper Stencils to create our snowflake designs instead of appliqued fabric. Once you learn this fun technique you will be using it to add your own personal touch to all kinds of fabric items... from t-shirts to tote bags. We will be using it to create the 12 snowflake squares needed for the Snowflake Lap Quilt.

Next week we will share the freezer paper stencil technique and directions for making your very own Snowflake Quilt.

Click Here for the Snowflake Applique Block
Click Here for the Snowflake Stencil Directions
Click Here (coming soon) for the Snowflake Lap Quilt Pattern

Submitted by Michelle on Fri, 01/20/2012 - 14:34

Quilting Basics - Part 4 - Answering Questions and Helpful Readers' Comments

Blogs are like books in progress. Although, as the author, you are always on the last page, writing your heart out, at any point in time, someone else can pick up the book, and start reading, and it is all new and fresh to them. Yesterday, someone linked to our articles on basic quilting. Because of that, there's been renewed interest in those postings, with new comments and emails with questions. It occurred to me that there were a few things I did not talk about, and some new questions asked. Instead of answering all the emails separately, I decided to add a 4th part to the series. I hope it answers some additional questions you might have had. Please, feel free to include any tips and advice you may have. So, here's some additional info... in no particular order. I will continue to add comments made by our readers over time, so check back periodically :)

Quilting Basics - Part 1

Quilting Basics - Part 2

Quilting Basics - Part 3

If using tracing paper, wax pencil, disappearing markers, etc. on your fabric to mark stitching lines, always test it on a scrap piece of your fabric first. Mark your scrap, then wash it, to make sure the marks will come out. Nothing ruins a project more than marking stains!

I've had people ask me what size needles I use. The honest answer is I haven't a clue. All of my needles wind up, out of their packages, and tossed in my needle holder. (Just an old Altoid tin :) The needle I pick depends on the thickness of the thread I use (thicker thread, larger needle eye), how lofty my batting is (the thicker the batting the longer the needle), and the type of fabric I'm trying to quilt (delicate fabric requiring thinner needles). You can buy "quilting" needles, usually they are straight needles, without a bump around the needle eye so you don't leave a bigger hole than necessary, but simply use a needle that gives you a nice look and is easy to use.

The question of how to hold the top, batting and backing together could be a whole post by itself, but I'll condense it here. If I'm doing a small project, like the yellow square I used in the examples, I usually just pin or staple the piece together. (See note in Part 1 about using a stapler.) You can also go through and baste the 3 pieces together, using very long running stitches. The advantage of basting is there are no pins for your quilting thread to get tangled in, but basting takes more time. Using a hoop or frame helps hold your pieces together, and stops the layers from shifting. A hoop or frame is especially necessary when working with big pieces. Even when using a frame, I still like to pin my layers together. Several years ago, a friend gave me a Quilters Basting gun. It takes the place of safety pins and is fast. The gun puts small, plastic tags in your fabric, similar to the price tags used on new clothing. When you are done, you go through an sips off the tags. Always test the gun on your fabric first to make sure the gun doesn't break threads on the fabric.

Submitted by Sara on Thu, 12/15/2011 - 00:12.

I'm So in love with 505 Basting spray I used this for the first time on my last big project. It was all hand appliqued and I was afraid to machine quilt it. So I Hand stitched for 3 weeks :-) I used 505 and it really did a great job holding it together so I could get it on the frame. Used it for 3 small projects since and I'm still in love with it.

I was told it dissipates after 2 days but it held for more like 7 days... Which was a bonus.

Submitted by justastitch on Thu, 12/15/2011 - 13:45.

I've used 505 a lot, especially for large quilts. It works wonderfully and if you don't overspray (which isn't necessary) and if you wait til the next day to start sewing the needles go through fine. I've quilted the same day and it's fine, too, but I think it was recommended to me to wait til the next day. I've used other basting sprays and they don't work well at all and gum up needles.

Submitted by Metanoia on Thu, 06/09/2011 - 02:53.

I haven't done hand quilting yet, but I'll remember to pull out my beeswax block for then. I don't use my beeswax much though. Here are a couple of tips if you don't have beeswax:

With cotton from a spool in particular, is that you always thread the end that comes off the spool first (not the end you cut). So that I don't mix this up, I usually thread my needle, then cut my length.

If you're using embroidery thread, I similarly find the "right" end to start (the side that will allow you to pull a length without tangling generally) and always thread my needle onto the first end. Before you thread your needle though, you'll also want to "relax" the threads by taking each of the strands and separating them. If you are only using 2 or 3 strands (ie for embroidery) I try to keep the threads laid so I remember which end was the "right" end to thread to the needle.

Submitted by Linda Theil on Tue, 01/17/2012 - 07:33.

I am not much of a quilter, but when I make a quilt I always hand-quilt it; and since I am an embroiderer, I think of my quilting as embroidery. As an embroiderer, I was taught to make an away-knot, so I use a similar technique for my quilting. I don't knot my thread, I just bury a long tail through the batting and take a little backstitch under my first quilting stitch. It may be unorthodox, but I like it and it works pretty good. Also I couldn't hand-stitch at all if I didn't have those fantastic little leather dots that stick to your finger to use instead of a thimble. Amazon calls them "leather thimble self-adhesive fingertip pads" made by Colonial. I call them finger-savers : )

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 01/17/2012 - 10:55.

Thanks for the suggestions. I've never used leather dot thimbles. It might take the place of the clear nail polish that I slather on my finger :) I will also use a backstitch instead of a knot if I'm making a decorative piece that won't receive any wear and tear. If I'm making a utilitarian quilt, I usually make a knot and bury it in the batting.

Submitted by jread921 on Tue, 01/11/2011 - 12:02.

I have found that a dryer sheet works well for keeping thread detangled as well. (although I LOVE the smell of beeswax much more than dryer sheet)

Then there is the question of thimbles. I seem to be thimble challenged. I have never gotten the feel of using one. If I do use one, it is leather, and I use it on my right hand for pushing the needle through. An elderly neighbor once shared this idea. She didn't like the feel of thimbles, either. What she did, on the backside guiding finger, was to put a couple coats of clear nail polish on her fingertip. Since you tend to just graze that finger, having a little film on your finger really helps. When you have picked through the polish, just add a little more. If I have a lot of quilting to do, I use nail polish on my finger :)

Submitted by Linda Theil (not verified) on Tue, 01/17/2012 - 07:33.

Submitted by tinasquirrel on Thu, 01/13/2011 - 10:17.

I enjoy embroidery, but have only done a small bit of hand quilting. When I took a class last year, they taught us to do about three stitches at a time. So, you go in and out, in and out, in and out, with your needle in the quilt that whole time, before pulling the needle through and tightening up your stitches. (Does that make sense, LOL?) Is that how you do it, or do you do one stitch at a time?

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 01/13/2011 - 10:34.

Good point to bring up, Tina. Yes, I will make 2 or 3 stitches at a time, weaving the needle up and down through the fabric, especially for straight lines.It is harder to do multiple stitches when you are quilting curves or if you are working with a loftier batting. As I said in the beginning... this is a "feel" type of craft. As you get more comfortable, you find things that work for you that aren't in the "books". I chuckle every time I watch Michelle knit because she holds the needles in a bizarro fashion. But look at her work... it is beautiful and she knits faster than me. Can't argue with success!

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 01/17/2012 - 07:27

Fairy's First Quilt

Fairy got the coolest sewing machine from Santa this year. I'm a tad jealous myself and have been borrowing it for all my little projects recently. ;) Unlike the toy or children's sewing machines we have tried in the past this Sewing Pretty with Hello Kitty by Janome is a REAL machine... just slightly smaller with the added bonus of being cute as can be. She will not out grow this machine any time soon. Although not fancy, it is sturdy and it really, truly sews.

Santa also brought her several different charm packs including Moda Bliss. Fairy spent some time laying out all her squares and decided to make a stripy quilt... lining up the matching patterns in their various colorways.

She is now working at piecing each row. Her attention span gets her through about 3 squares at a time... but slow and steady is just find and dandy.

Submitted by Michelle on Thu, 02/03/2011 - 07:58

At Wee Folk Art we combine our love of Wee Folk with our love of Folk Art, creating designs that are uniquely Wee Folk Art! Craft along with us by creating some of the many free patterns found on or blog, or visit our Shop (coming soon) for additional patterns and kits.