Clothing

When we made plans to take a trip to visit my son and his wife, I wanted a project that I could work on in the car, and one that wouldn't be too complicated. I designed this pattern to be attractive but also easy enough that I could knit in the car, while talking to others or watching movies. No complex cables, just a very easy to follow, very repeatable pattern. I think I accomplished both goals. I love the way they turned out... I've been wearing them about town already :) and these patterns are suitable for beginners/advanced beginners.

The directions for the scarf can be found HERE or with our FREE Patterns.

The directions for the mitterns can be found HERE or with our FREE Patterns. Enjoy!

Believe it or not, there is still time to knit a scarf for a Christmas gift... or, be self indulgent like me  ;) and knit one for yourself to help keep you toasty warm over the winter months. This scarf is an easy pattern to knit, suitable for beginners that know how to knit and purl. It is a basic checkerboard pattern, with blocks made up of 4 stitches and rows. It matches our Checkerboard Mitten (coming soon) pattern. It would look lovely made up in soft wools. I, unfortunately, am allergic to wool, so I made mine out of an acrylic. This scarf is best knit with solid yard. Patterned and self striping yarn would camouflage the pattern. Whether you make the scarf and mittens or just the scarf, it's sure to keep you warm!

Checkerboard Scarf
(Finished length: approximately 74”)

2 skeins (5oz – 140g – 256yd – 234m) worsted weight (4) yard
(I used Red Heart – Soft Yarn – Color 9770 – Rose Blush)
#8 knitting needles
Tapestry needle

Size:
Finished scarf is 74 inches long and 7 ½” inches wide. Gauge is not critical. (NOTE: Make the scarf as long or as short as you want. 60” is often considered a good scarf length but I wanted the scarf to wrap around my neck and still offer chest warmth so I made mine longer than many.)

Instructions:
Cast on 38 stitches.

Rib (38 stitches)
Row 1: (K2, P2) repeat across row ending with K2.
Row 2: (P2, K2) repeat across row ending with P2.
Rows 3, 5, 7, and 9: repeat Row 1.
Rows 4, 6, and 8: repeat Row 2.
Row 10: repeat Row 2 adding 2 stitches evenly spaced across row. (40 stitches)

Scarf Body (40 stitches)
Rows 1 – 4: (K4, P4) 5 times across row.
Rows 5 – 8: (P4, K4) 5 times across row.
Repeat these 8 rows until scarf measures 72” or 2” less than desired length. (NOTE: End with a row 4 or Row 8, decreasing 2 stitches evenly spaced across row. (38 stitches)

Rib (38 stitches)
Row 1: (K2, P2) repeat across row ending with K2.
Row 2: (P2, K2) repeat across row ending with P2
Rows 3, 5, 7, and 9: repeat Row 1
Rows 4, 6, 8, and 10: repeat Row 2
Bind off.

These mittens are easy to knit, suitable for advanced beginners. It is a basic checkerboard pattern, with blocks made up of 4 stitches and rows. It matches our Checkerboard Scarf pattern. They would look lovely made up in soft wools. I, unfortunately, am allergic to wool, so I made mine out of an acrylic. These mittens are best knit with solid yard. Patterned and self striping yarn would camouflage the pattern. Whether you make the scarf and mittens or just the mittens, they are sure to keep you warm!

Supplies:
1 skein (5oz – 140g – 256yd – 234m) worsted weight (4) yard
(I used Red Heart – Soft Yarn – Color 9770 – Rose Blush)
#8 knitting needles
#6 knitting needles
Tapestry needle
1 stitch holder
2 stitch markers

Size:
Women’s Average/Large. (To customize, increase or decrease hand and thumb length as needed.)

NOTE: When I refer to a “stripe” I am talking about 4 rows of the pattern below that create a box; it does not refer to the entire 8 rows of pattern, which create 2 “stripes”.

INSTRUCTIONS - Make 2 mittens. Right and left hand are the same.
Ribbing: (36 stitches)
Cast on 36 stitches using #6 needles.
Row 1: (right side) (K2, P2) repeat across row.
Repeat Row 1 until cuff measures 4 ½”. End at the end of a right side row.
On wrong side: K2, Increase 1 in the next stitch. Continue pattern to last 3 stitches from the end of the row. Increase 1 in the next stitch. P2. (38 stitches)

Hand: (38 stitches)
Change to #8 needles.
Knit in the following pattern:
Row 1: (right side) P1, *K4, P4; repeat from* 4 times; K4, P1.
Row 2: K1, *P4, K4; repeat from * 4 times; P4, K1.
Row 3: repeat Row 1.
Row 4: repeat Row 2.
Row 5: K1, *P4, K4; repeat from * 4 times; P4, K1.
Row 6: P1, *K4, P4; repeat from * 4 times; K4, P1.
Row 7: repeat Row 5.
Row 8: repeat Row 6.
Continue working pattern until piece measures 2” from the end of ribbing. (For my mittens I completed 12 rows, completing 3 “stripes”.

Thumb Gusset:
NOTE: The thumb, or stitches between the markers, is worked in the stockinette stitch. (Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.)
Row 1: Work 18 stitches in pattern; place marker on needle; increase 1 stitch on the next 2 K stitches; place marker on needle. Work remaining 18 stitches in pattern. (40 stitches)
Row 2: Work pattern for 18 stitches; purl the stitches between the markers; work 18 stitches in pattern.
Row 3: Work pattern for 18 stitches; slide marker; increase in next stitch; K to stitch before next marker, increase in next stitch; slide marker; work remaining 18 stitches in pattern. (42 stitches)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until there are 14 stitches between the markers; end by working Row 2. (52 stitches)

Placing Thumb on Stitch Holder and Working Hand:
Work 18 stitches in pattern; remove marker; knit 14 stitches for thumb; place thumb stitches on holder; work remaining 18 stitches in pattern. (36 stitches)
Work remaining stitches in pattern (see note) until piece measures 7 ½” from start of hand; end by working a wrong side row. (For me that was 13 “stripes”)NOTE: The blocks in the mitten pattern were created by working 4 stitches by 4 rows. Now, stitches 18 and 19 will create a “half” block. (2 stitches by 4 rows) These will become the mitten fold when they are sewn together.

Top Shaping: (36 stitches)
NOTE: The top of the mitten is worked in the stockinette stitch.
Row 1: *K2, K2 together; repeat from * across row. (27 stitches)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: *K1, K2 together; repeat from * across row. (18 stitches)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K2 together; repeat from * across row. (9 stitches)
Cut yarn leaving a 20” tail. Thread into a tapestry needle and slide through remaining stitches, removing them from the needle. Pull yarn tightly and fasten securely. Leave yarn for sewing mitten together later.

Thumb: (14 stitches)
Slide stitches from holder to the needle. Attach yarn and purl row.
Work even in stockinette stitch until thumb measures 2 ¼”. NOTE: Measure from the “V” created where the thumb is attached to the hand on the inside.
Next row: *K2 together; repeat from * across row.
Cut yarn leaving a 12” tail. Thread into a tapestry needle and slide through remaining stitches, removing them from the needle. Pull yarn tightly and fasten securely. Leave yarn for sewing thumb together.

Finishing:
Sew thumb together.
Fold mitten and sew seam.
Turn up cuff. (Or for extra warmth… leave cuff unrolled if playing in the snow :)

Well, I got my pattern fixed for the Mushroom Business Card Holder. So, if you'd like to make your very own, TOTALLY cool, business card holder, the directions are good to go. Unfortunately, I spent the afternoon fixing the pattern and didn't get a chance to remake mine. But as soon as I finish this blog, I'm off to work on mine. Actually, Michelle put in a request for a red and white mushroom one, so I'll probably do that one first! The pattern for the Mushroom Business Card Holder can be found HERE or with the FREE Patterns. Enjoy! 

My children were little kiddos during the 80s. Michelle wore a jean jacket covered in pins, slouchy socks, and side ponytails. I also made her about a million sets of braided barrettes... colors to match every outfit! Funny, I made so many of these puppies I seriously think I could have braided them in my sleep. But today, when motivated to make a pair to go along with the new party dress I'm making for Fairy's up-and-coming birthday on Friday, I felt like I had 6 thumbs! (It wasn't soooo awkward that I felt like I was all thumbs!) Anyway, I had to play with it a while until I got the hang of it again. Trust me when I tell you that the second one practically made itself. It all came back... rather like riding a bike!

Perhaps braided barrettes are nostalgic for you or maybe you've never seen them before. One way or another, they are darn cute and worth making for yourself or some wee one in your life. They make super great birthday gifts and, of course, incredible stocking stuffers. The directions for our Braided Barrettes can be found HERE or in our FREE Patterns. Enjoy!

Nothing says "80"s or "cute" like braided barrettes. After you get a feel for making them, you'll have a set to match every outfit like... well, like in the 80s! Don't get frustrated if you feel like you're all thumbs when you first start. It may take a couple, but before long you'll be a pro, and turning them out in your sleep!

Materials:
1 yard 1/8" ribbon - color A (can be satin or grosgrain... but should be reversible)
1 yard 1/8" ribbon - color B
1 double bar barrette (2 - 2 1/2")
optional: buttons and beads for decorating

Directions:
1] Cut 1 piece each of colors A and B 36" long.

2] Lay color A over color B and slip through the bent, unopened end of the barrette. The ribbons should be centered. (NOTE: Treat the 2 different colored ribbons as if they were one. You should always be weaving 2 ribbons at a time. In all future directions when the word "ribbon" is used, it will refer to the 2 ribbons stacked on one another.) Always have the top of the barrette with the double bars showing facing up.

3] Beginning on the right side, weave the ribbon  over the first bar and under the second. Both ribbons will be on the left side. Be careful not to twist the ribbons.

4] Take the other ribbon and weave it over the first bar and under the second. You will now have ribbons on either side of the barrette. You will notice that the same color should be on top of both of these braids.

5] Continue in these manner alternately weaving the ribbons. You should see a stripe pattern emerge. Make sure to keep the ribbons pulled taut as you work and keep pushing the braids up to solidly fill in the barrette.

6] When the barrette is filled in enough, the braids cannot slide on the barrette. Finish braiding with all pieces of ribbon on one side.

7] You can leave the tails as is, tie knots in the ends, add buttons or beads, and leave all the same length or cut them to different lengths. If you prefer no ends, you can weave the ribbons through the backside, cutting them at different spots, and gluing the ends. Be creative!

8] If you want to make a pair, so you can wear them on either side of your head, make sure you stop your braiding on the opposite side. They should wind up being mirror images of one another.

I got a chance to make Bug a darker vest for his pirate costume (check out the pirate shirt un-pattern here) and took a bunch of pictures along the way. Here is the Dress Up Vest Un-Pattern or you can find it in our Free Patterns Section. I will also be sharing the quick directions for making the sash and rings.

Here is the Un-Pattern for the Child's Dress-Up Vest. (Why an UN-Pattern? Because you actually have to draw up your own pattern... we just tell you how we made ours).

For this project I used about 1 yard of Navy Corduroy and 1 Yard of a cotton print and 3 large silver buttons.

First I took the pattern I had made for the Pirate Shirt here (shown on top) and made some adjustments. I wanted the vest to be longer and the opening to be curved.

Leaving a 1/2" seam allowance all the way around (even on the fold for roominess) I cut out one back piece on the fold (without the cut away curve for the front). I then cut out two front pieces with the 1/2" seam allowance and I added another inch where the buttons would go for overlap.

Once I was happy with my vest pieces, I used them as a pattern to cut out my lining fabric to match.

With front sides together, sew up the top shoulder seams. Repeat with lining. (At this point I tried the vest on my boy and decided to shorten it up a bit. I made the adjustments to both the main fabric and lining).

Matching right sides together, pin the lining and main fabric together. You will get a wonky Y shape. Sew up everything but the SIDE SEAMS (the seams under the arms on both the front panels and back). Leave those open.

Pull the vest right side out through one of the side openings. Iron.

Outsides together, line up your side seams and sew. I also serged these seams but you could finish it even nicer with a Flat Fell Seam.

Now for some finishing touches. I cut out some squares for pockets. (I am only showing it on the liner side for better contrast so you can see the sizing).

I turned under and ironed the edges (twice at the top). I stitched along the top edge to hold the top edge down.

I centered the pocket pieces on the front vest panels and stitched in place.

For the finishing touch I sewed on 3 large silver buttons. I actually had room for four but only stitched a piece of string in the bottom position to make it look like a missing button (seems to me pirates would lose a few buttons along the way). I have not made the button holes on the other side yet but plan to at some point (actually I've never made button holes and figure I will hand it off to Gammy for that last bit).

One of the very first patterns we shared with our readers over a year ago was our Treasure Pouch. It was meant to be a spare pocket for the wee ones when they went on walk-abouts. It was made out of felt and flannel. They still use them constantly, but since that time I've kept looking at them thinking... "Hey, with the right fabric, we could really dress up that pouch". Well... for Pixie's birthday, I made the annual party dress and decided she needed a Party Purse. So, I grabbed the Treasure Pouch pattern as a starting point, and tweaked a little here, added and little there, and wah lah... our newfangled Party Purse! Directions for Pixie's Party Purse can be found HERE or in our FREE Open Patterns. Enjoy!

With a few modifications, I turned our Treasure Pouch into a Party Purse! Although I did not add any closure, you could use Velcro, a snap, or the magnetic closers. You could even put in a buttonhole and button. I used the pattern from the Treasure Pouch. Just substitute the word purse and tah dah, it's good to go!

Materials:
light to medium weight fabric for piecing the outside purse and lining
light weight batting
2 3/4" buttons
extra wide rick rack - mine was 1" wide
pattern

1] Make a copy of the pattern. Tape together the two pieces that make up the purse back.

2] Lay a piece of light weight fabric (muslin) over a thin batting. Pin pattern pieces in place and cut out.


3] Pin the batting and muslin together. 

4] The strips of fabric used to cover the batting are purposely cut askew. Although the 2 outer edges must be straight, the strips should be smaller at one end than the other. How different you make them is a matter of choice and should be aesthetically pleasing to you. There is no right or wrong way to do this. NOTE: I cut out one piece at a time and decide with each strip how I want it cut. I use a cutting mat, edge and roller blade but you can mark lines and use scissors to cut your strips.  

5] Once you have a strip cut, place it on your purse back. The strip should over hang the purse piece and the wrong side of the fabric should be directly against the batting. DO NOT sew this first piece on. 
6] Cut a second strip in the same manner. Place is on the purse over the first strip with right sides together and pin in place. Using a 1/4" seam, sew the strip to the purse back.
7] Remove pins and finger press the second strip up. 
8] Continue cutting and sewing strips to the purse back until the entire piece is covered. NOTE: Remove the pins that hold the batting to the muslin as you go.
9] Iron the complete quilted piece.
10] Turn the piece over so you see the overhanging strips. Cut away the extra material so it is the same size as the batting and muslin.
NOTE: If you would like the embellish with any type of embroidery, now is the time to do that. This purse has a crazy quilt look about it. Often people embroider using fancy stitches on or near the stitching lines. I did not have time to do it, plus I think the fabric is busy enough without it, but with certain fabrics it would add a lovely touch!

11] To cut out the lining, lay the completed back on top of the lining material, with wrong sides together. Pin in place and cut out the lining. Set aside.
12] To add the rick rack, lay the pattern on the right side of the quilted back. Place a pin at the dotted fold line on the fabric. This is where you should splice the rick rack.
13] Most rick rack is made from man made materials (Polyester, rayon, etc.) that melt much like plastic. To prevent the rick rack from fraying, you can carefully melt the edge of the rick rack. If you prefer you can use Fray Check or sew the edge of the rick rack. If done right, I find melting the edge seems to work the best for me. NOTE: Obviously, be careful when using a flame. You do not need to put the rick rack directly in the flame to melt it. Just holding the edge near the flame will melt it. Practice on piece before using a good piece of rick rack. 
14] Pin the rick rack to the front of the finished back piece. You will be using a 1/2" seam allowance to sew the lining to the back, so make sure the rick rack center is 1/2" from the edge. Reposition your rick rack if necessary so 1/2" is in the middle of the trim.
15] Pin the rick rack all the way around the front of the purse back. Cut the rick rack so it overlaps by at least a quarter of an inch. Carefully melt the edge or add Fray Check or sew the edge. Pin in place. NOTE: Before anyone asks... I do not have any magic formula for making the rick rack line up. The fact that my 2 edges matched almost exactly was pure luck! If you notice that you are close, you can play with the spacing of the rick rack a little, but mostly, it is what it is!
16] Using a 1/4" seam, sew rick rack to purse back.
17] Pin the lining to the purse back with right sides together. Using a 1/2" seam, sew the pieces together, leaving a 2 1/2" opening on one side. 
18] Trim seams to 1/4". (Do not trim along the open edge.) Turn right side out through the opening and press.
19] Ladder stitch the opening closed. Basically you are sewing to the rick rack. You will need to do this on the quilted side of the back and the lining side. Doing this in two steps helps hide your stitches.
20] Using small stitches, sew the 2 ends of the rick rack together.
The finished quilted side of the back.
The finished lining side of the back.
21] To make the smaller front piece, proceed as you did for the back except you will not be adding rick rack. When you sew the lining to the quilted front, leave the 2 1/2" opening at the top.  
22] Lay the completed front purse piece on top of the back purse piece so the linings are touching. Pin in place. Using the longest stitch on your sewing machine, top stitch an 1/8" away from the edge of the piece (do not sew on rickrack.) Reinforce at the top straight edge of the front piece. This area will get a lot of wear and tear when you go in and out of your purse. The top stitching should go all the way around the entire edge of the purse, including the top flap. Sew a second line of top stitching 1/4" away from the first.
23] To make the strap, cut out the strap from the lining fabric. Cut the piece 3" x 31". (You can make this shorter or longer to meet your needs. Cut out one piece of batting 1 1/4" x 31".
24] Fold the strap in half lengthwise with right sides together. Place the batting over the folding strap, lining the batting up with the folded edge. Pin in place. Using a 1/2" seam allowance, begin at one end of the strap and sew together. You need to sew the ends shut and do a 90 degree turn at the corners. Leave about a 3" opening in the middle of the strap. Continue sewing the rest of the way. Make sure to make a 90 degree turn at the other corner and sew the end shut. Trim the seam to 1/4" (Do not trim along the open edge.) 

OPPS!!! There should be a photo here. Seems I missed documenting this step! I think the directions are clear, but if you have any questions, don't hesitate to contact us!

25] Turn the strap right side out and press. (You do not need to sew the opening closed.

26] Top stitch around the whole strap about 1/8" from the edge. (This will close up the opening.)
27] To position the strap, close the purse along the fold line. On the back, pin the strap in place so the bottom of the strap is 1" from the fold, and the outer edge of the strap is 1/2" away from the purse edge.
28] Secure fasten buttons. This is how the strap is attached to the purse. Make sure the buttons are on tight. If the purse is going to hold a lot of weight, you can use an invisible stitch to sew the strap to the purse along the edge. In most cases, the buttons should suffice.
Your Party Purse is now done!