Whether there is a dragon that needs taming or a kingdom that needs protecting, you’ll surely want a knight, or better yet, several, to keep the lands safe. And, it’s very important to have a supply of squires, willing and eager to learn the skills necessary to become a knight.
This tutorial has 3 parts:
Part 1 – Getting Started
Part 2 – Crafting the Knight (below)
Part 3 – Crafting the Squire
Part 1 – Getting Started – Can be found HERE.
In Part 1 you get the pattern and supply list, along with instructions for cutting out the felt and how to add the optional face and boots/gloves.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO PREVENT MISUSE OF MATERIALS
IMPORTANT: When sewing pieces together, whether using a running, blanket or whip stitch, seam should only be 1/8”. If you make seams larger, the clothes will not fit. The small seam allows the clothing to lay better on the dolls. If you want to make the seams a little larger YOU MUST CUT THE PATTERN PIECES OUT A LITTLE BIGGER. You might want to experiment by making a pair of pants out of inexpensive felt and try sewing them on a doll before you cut out all your pattern pieces.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING THE KNIGHT
Read Part 1 – Getting Started
PANTS:
Lay pants on work surface. Lay rope doll on pants piece so the slit is between the legs.
Using 2 strands of floss, blanket stitch the inseam of one leg, beginning at the bottom of the leg. You will be sewing the pants to the doll, and they will not be removable.
Do the other inseam.
Using a whip stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew up the front seam of the pants.
Using 2 strands of floss, sew a running stitch around the waist of the pants and pull to gather snuggly. Tie off.
SHIRT:
Slide shirt over head so slit is in the back.
Pin one side and sew up the shirt side and down the arm using a blanket stitch and 2 strands of floss.
Sew the other side.
Using an overcast stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew up the slit in the back.
TABARD:
Using pattern as a guide, mark the seam lines on the tabard. (Small sections in parentheses A and B.)
Using a blanket stitch and 3 strands of floss, sew around the neck opening.
Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch the bottom front and back.
Using 3 strands of floss, blanket stitch the shoulder sections.
Fold tabard in half matching side stitching lines.
Using a blanket stitch and 3 strands of floss, stitch under one arm. Sew through both the front and back to the joining line, joining the front to the back.
Do the same to the other side seam.
Place the tabard on the knight with the slit opening in the back.
Using an overcast stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew up the tabard opening.
HELMET:
Using a blanket stitch and 3 strands of floss, stitch along the bottom edge of the helm and along the inner circular edge.
Pin the wrong side of the helm together. Using a blanket stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew together along the seam line.
BELT:
Using a running stitch and 6 strands of felt, sew around the 4 edges of the belt. This is a single layer of felt. The stitching is used for decorative purposes only.
Pin the belt over the tabard. It should make the tabard gather a little.
Using 6 strands of floss, use a satin stitch to create the buckle. You should go through the 2 layers of the belt and the tabard.
NOTE: After the wee ones played with the knights for a while we found that the helmets were often taken off and went missing. Also, they were getting stretched out being taken on and off. Because these dolls were not designed to be dressed and undressed, we decided to glue the helmets on. Certainly not necessary but it’s worked for us. If you would like to do this, put the helmet on and pull it down so the helmet is touching the upper head. Put a dot of crafting glue under the helmet on the front and back and squeeze until the glue sets.
SWORD:
Cut a 3 inch piece of pipe cleaner. Color does not matter since it won’t be seen.
Pin 2 sword pieces together. Using a running stitch and 2 strands of floss, begin at the blunt end of sword, sew down one side of the blade, around the point, and about an inch up the other edge. Place pipe cleaner in sword, making sure the end goes into the tip. Finish sewing up the other side, and the short edge, encasing the pipe cleaner.
Following the pattern, position the blade on the handle. Using a running stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew the blade to the handle along the bottom, sides and across the top, creating a square.
Fold the handle over on itself to the overlap line. Pin in place. Using an overcast stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew the handle closed, being careful to only sew through the 2 layers of the handle. The knights hand needs to slide into the handle.
Try the sword on the knight’s hand. The fit should be snug so it does not fall off, but it needs to be able to slide on and off. Often, if the opening is too tight, you can stretch the felt a little by gently tugging. Sew across the edge of the handle touching the blade. You will be going through bother layers of the handle and the sword. Use a running stitch and 2 strands of floss.
When you find that the sword fits properly, using a blanket stitch and 3 strands of floss, sew around the outer edge of the handle. This will stop it from stretching out of shape.
SHIELD:
Pin shield front to shield back. Using a running stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew the 2 pieces together.
Pin shield piece to front of shield. Sew on using a running stitch and 2 strands of floss.
Using the pattern as a guid, position handle on back of shield. Using an overcast stitch and 2 strands of floss, sew handle in place making sure not to go through the front of the shield. NOTE: When you sew on handle, it will cause the shield to curve. This is correct.
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So excited this next part is up. I am going to have some alone time this weekend and it will be a great way to spend my time. To be very honest, I printed off the pattern and cut out my pieces already. I thought I could wing it without the directions. Nopers. I just stared at the pants and wondered how to magically make them work. I read your instructions. Boy, do I feel like a dummy. Makes sense! Thanks for this project. It is so generous of you to share all of this for free. Is there a St. Kimara already?
Hehe, trust me, saint material I am not 😉 Hope you find all the directions to be clear. Let me know if you run into any problems.
when you say “use three strands of floss” “four strands of floss” etc — how do you prepare the strands for stitching? do they need to be entwined, or just side by side, grouped together? and is floss the same as embroidery yarn? i find the embroidery yarn i buy frays apart and something knots up during the stitching. I’m going to purchase some from A Child’s Dream…wondering if that happens to you or if i’m just using cheap floss?
I generally use DMC floss. It is 100% cotton and I've been very satisfied with it. I've bought cheaper floss and didn't like the results. There are more expensive flosses out there, too. Some are hand dyed even. But, as I've said, I've been happy with DMC floss, it's sold in our local craft shops, and there are a ton of colors.
The DMC embroidery floss is made up of 6 individual strands. You simply cut the floss to length, then separate the floss into the number of strands you need. Let's say you need 3 strands, grab 3 strands of floss in one hand, holding the other 3 strands in the other. Slowly pull the strands apart, allowing the strands to untwist from one another. Then, thread the 3 strands through the needle as if they were one, and work them as one.
Embroidery floss is different than embroidery yarn. Although you could use yarns, for these small items, I prefer the floss, but play with them a bit to see which you prefer. Hope that helps 🙂
These are so cute! My embroidery skills are so lacking. We have been emailing about the scroll saw and I have been doing so much better! Turns out reading the manual was more useful than I thought it would be (I probably shouldn’t be using power tools!). I wanted to ask you if you ever tried a crown tooth blade? I guess they are a newer blade design. It has worked extremely well for me and you can actually turn it over and use the other side so you get double use out of it. It isn’t great for cutting across a wide board (takes forever) but other than that it is great. Just wanted to let you know!
No, I've never used that blade but I'll check them out soon. I usually use a table saw for my big straight cuts. I think the more you do any crafting, the more shortcuts and tricks you find, and the better you get, thus, the more fun you have… less frustrated. Thanks for the advice! Trust me, I'm still learning 🙂
I just finished ordering my felt; I can’t wait for the tutorial for the horses!! I asked the hubbie for for a scroll saw a couple of years ago for my birthday; can’t wait to use it again on another WFA creation!!
Thanks again for such a cute project.
I've got the pattern for the horses, had hoped to get them all cut out the past 2 weekends but something else has always come up! I will get to them soon. The wee ones around here want them, too 🙂
I’ just would like to thank your kindness and generosity, it’s wonderful to find someone like you. Thank You!!!
Thanks for your kind words, Mada. It's because of people like you that Michelle and I take so much pleasure in sharing our designs with our readers. ((hugs))
[…] 1 – Getting Started (below) Part 2 – Crafting the Knight Part 3 – Crafting the Squireu00A0 MATERIALS NEEDEDu00A0for each pair ofu00A0Knights and Squires in […]
[…] tutorial has 3 parts: Part 1 – Getting Started Part 2 – Crafting the Knight Part 3 – Crafting the […]
Amazing!! I’m not sure I’ll have the patience to finish the knight with so much detail, but I will see how far I get! Thanks for the great tutorial! Love it!
Just remember to double check sizes. All rope dolls can be different. If you do make one, share a pic on Facebook. We would love to see it. And don’t worry if you don’t get as fancy. I’ve made some without all the trim work and the wee ones love them just the same 🙂 ~Kimara~