June 2009

USAF Roundel Applique

I have added a USAF Roundel Applique Patch to our Free Appliques Database. This one was not designed to fit on our standard 6 inch squares but instead I made it 7 inches wide to fit nicely across my son's shirt. Of course you can reduce the size if you would like to make a square from it. I love how patriotic this applique and outfit turned out. He loves it so much he wore it two days in a row.

Note: Roundels are the images painted on planes to identify which country the aircraft is from. They are called roundels because most of them are round.

Submitted by Michelle on Mon, 06/01/2009 - 15:29
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Memory Bouquet

Although I'm not "officially" back until Monday, I was just finishing up a project for Fairy and I thought I'd share a little. Last year Fairy was in her first dance recital. Tell me if there is anything cuter than a 3 year old in a tutu!!! I wanted to get her flowers... all dancers deserve flowers after a performance, right? Anyway, after giving it some thought, I decided that flowers die after a few days and there's nothing left but stinky water! So, I started one of those "traditions" that I might come to regret later (Tim and I have 5 children... so far only 1 of them has procreated... what I do for 3 grandbabies now seems reasonable, if that eventually turns to 15+ these "traditions" may seem excessive!) Anyway, I decided instead of buying fresh cut flowers, I would make a felt flower to commemorate the big events in her life. Saturday is her 2nd dance recital and I've finished her 2nd felt flower. They may not look like much now, but just think how the bouquet will eventually look with a couple dozen flowers. When I return next week, I will have directions on how to make this flower, and slowly I will add to the bouquet. (I will also have pics of the adorable dancer with said flower!) Watch for it at the beginning of the week. Have a lovely weekend all!

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/04/2009 - 19:09
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Fairy's Memory Bouquet

 

Here's our little Fairy after her performance at her recital. The theme this year was Dance Hotel and Fairy's class performed The Swimming Pool! There was lots of diving and swimming and nose plugging fun and talent, I can assure you! Here she is after the performance, looking as fresh as if she just got out of the pool, and was thrilled to be holding her flowers! (It was no coincidence that the flower was blue this year!) This is now Fairy's 2nd felt flower in her memory bouquet. Although she will have many accomplishments (she's achieved yellow belt tae kwondo), I'm reserving felt flowers for the times in her life we would normally give her flowers. I have also started a "Memory Bouquet" scrapbook which will document her accomplishments through her growing bouquet. It also has instructions for how to make this flower, and I'll design a new flower for each event. If you would like to start your own memory bouquet or turn this flower into a brooch, check out our FREE PATTERN. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 06/07/2009 - 14:55
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Memory Bouquet Felt Flower

Materials:
Felt pieces
glass seed beads
embroidery floss
3 12" pipe cleaners
florist tape
pattern

Directions:
1] Make copy of pattern.

2] Cut out pattern in desired colors.

Inner Beaded section:
3] Mark the inner circle.

4] Using 2 strands of embroidery floss, bring thread up in the center of the flower. String 1 bead on needle.


5] Placing the needle close to the spot where you brought your needle up through the fabric, sew back down through to the backside. Pull the bead close to the felt.


6] For the next bead and all subsequent beads, bring your needle up close to the previous bead, string a bead, and sew back through close to where the thread came up.



7] Continue this, radiating out from the center, until you solidly cover the inner circle. Tie off the thread on the back.

8] Turn under the seam allowance, and tack to the backside of the beaded circle. Set aside.

Assembling flower:
9] Place the 2 leaves on top of petal 1 lining up centers. Using a "sharp poky" (I used a size 8 knitting needle) poke a hole through all three layers. (The hole should be big enough to allow 3 pipe cleaners to go through but still fit snug snug.)

10] Twist three pipe cleaners together.

11] Push the pipe cleans through the leaves and petal. "Knot" the end of pipe cleaners so the pipe cleaner cannot be pulled back through the holes. Flatten the knot so the other petals will lay flat.


12] Place petal 2 on top of petal 1. Near the center, tack through petal 2 and 1. (Do not go through the leaves.)  Attach securely. Make sure the petals are placed on top of one another in an appealing manner.

13] Add petal 3 in the same manner.

Shaping the flower:
14] In several areas around the flower you will be "pinching" all 3 petal layers of fabric (don't grab the leaves yet) and tacking them together. Use a color of embroider floss that matches petal 1. How "deep" you pinch the flower and how many pinches you make will affect how cupped your flower becomes. This is all a matter of taste. Tie off.


15] Repeat this pinching process for the leaves. Make sure to position the leaves so the points are staggered. When you tack the "pinches" make sure to grab a little of the petal fabric. This will keep your leaves against the flower.

Adding the center:
16] Using a matching thread, tack the beaded center to the center of the flower. You should only need to go through the center and petal 3 to secure.

Finishing the stem:
17] Using florist tape, start at the top of the stem near the leaves, securely wrap the pipe cleaners together, keeping the florist tape taunt.

Options: If you would like to add leaves to the stem, cut a few out of felt, and using more florist tape, add them to the stem. Because I plan to have many flowers in this Memory Bouquet, I do not want leaves on the stems.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 06/07/2009 - 15:28
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Wee Folk Art Mushrooms Applique Block

 

While I was off on Staycation, Michelle did a great job of holding down the fort. She managed to feed the fish and water the plants! (There's a rather humorous inside joke here that bears telling at another time!) Anyway, on top of sharing a couple of projects, she also gave the site an overhaul. I LOVE the new look. We'll have some exciting news to share about it soon.

While I was "gone", mcimand asked if we could turn our new mushrooms into an applique block. Since we love pleasing our readers, it was one of the first items on my to-do list. So, we now have the Wee Folk Art Mushrooms available as an applique block. Note: The actual pattern includes the 4 mushrooms pictured in our banner. When making this block, I picked 2 of the mushrooms, #2 and #3. I blanket stitched the mushroom shapes to the block, slightly overlapping #2 over #3, then adding the spots using a running stitch. This is just an example of many ways you can use the 4 mushroom patterns. Later in the week I have plans for sharing a different use for the pattern.

Hope you like our new appliques and find many uses for them. As always, they were designed for a 6" x 6" block but can be enlarged or reduced to meet your needs. The pattern is available in our FREE Applique Data Base and you can get it here. Enjoy!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave your scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

www.WeeFolkArt.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 06/09/2009 - 22:29
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Candlewick Mushrooms

Way back in the 80s, candlewicking made a comeback. Candlewicking is an interesting Colonial craft technique where ecru thread is used to embroider designs on ecru fabric, traditionally unbleached muslin. Candlewick is the unbleached cotton thread that is used for making candles, something most Colonial families had available for use. Although you can still buy candlewicking, now tatting or crochet thread is often used; and you can even use 6 strands of ecru embroidery floss. The end results are a subtle and muted design... that reminds me of a shadow. Many of the early pieces used a series of French knots to outline imagines, creating a 3-D look, but you can use any embroidery technique you enjoy!

I always talk about my penchant to create designs that can be used in more than one way. Our applique blocks are especially suited to multitasking! For this piece I ran a copy of our Mushroom Applique Block pattern, cut apart the individual mushrooms, and played with them until I achieved a design I liked. You can recreate my design using the placement pattern or lay out your own design. The directions for this Candlewicking Mushroom Wallhanging are available in our FREE Pattern Section. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/11/2009 - 06:44
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Candlewick Mushroom Wallhanging

Materials:
10” wooden embroidery hoop
2 pieces unbleached muslin, 16” x 16”
1 piece thin cotton batting, 16” x 16”
Ecru crochet thread (candlewicking or embroidery floss)
16” of 1/4" grosgrain ribbon
Washable marker for tracing
Placement pattern
Mushroom pattern

1] Make copies of placement pattern and mushroom patterns.

2] If using my placement pattern, transfer markings to the center of 1 piece of muslin.

3] If you’d like to “design” your own pattern, cut out the 4 mushrooms on the mushroom pattern and lay them out in the center of the wooden hoop until you are satisfied with the placement. (I used mushrooms #1, 2 and 3.) Tape the mushrooms together. This can now be used to trace your design in the center of 1 piece of muslin. Make sure to transfer markings for the mushroom’s spots and the flowers as shown on the placement pattern.

4] Sandwich together the muslin and batting by laying the unmarked muslin, then the batting, then the marked muslin, design side up, together. Center the design in the embroidery hoop.

5] Following the placement pattern, quilt the 3 pieces together. Use a running stitch, going through all 3 layers of material, for the mushroom outline and spots.

6] Going through all 3 layers of material, stem stitch the stems, use the lazy daisy stitch to make leaves, and add the flower heads using the woven spider wheel stitch.

7] Using a damp cloth, wipe off the washable marker.

Finishing the Wall Hanging:
8] Make sure your design is centered and that the fabric is taut and wrinkle free. The screw portion of the hoop should be centered at the top. Using a running stitch, sew around the circumference of the hoop, just on the inside of the back hoop. (This will be about 3/8” from the outer edge of the outside loop.) You will be going through the 3 layers of the piece AND catching the salvage or hem on the back. This will keep the fabric in the back sewn against the inside ring.

 
9] Carefully trim away excess material.
 

10] On the front side, wrap the grosgrain around the metal screw and tie into a bow. Hang on the wall and enjoy!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.
All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/11/2009 - 12:15
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Posy Peasant Babushka Doll

I woke up this morning with the flu bug that Fairy brought home earlier in the week and this inexplicable desire to design a Matryoshka doll! I'm not sure if the 2 are connected, but between naps and blowing my nose, I managed to design this Posy Peasant Babushka Doll. I'm not sure to what ends yet... but I know I want to make something 2 AND 3 dimensional. (Hmmm... perhaps a new doorstop???) And, just because I thought the drawing was so cute, I watercolored it! (Why aren't I napping?) 

I am sure the first thing I'll do is to make this up with felt, but it would also be adorable with calicoes... perhaps an applique on a skirt. And I do want to create the "nesting" aspect of the dolls, so I will design matching smaller dolls. Anyway, the couch is calling to me, so off I go! Look for the pattern for this Babushka doll in the next couple of days.     

Submitted by Kimara on Sun, 06/14/2009 - 15:58
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Should be sleeping!

What I should be doing is sleeping... I'm about 80% better, sleep could actually take me to 100%!!! Instead, I was working on the babushka doll. I have her done, but since I'm not sure what I'm doing with her yet, her side seams are open until I blanket stitch her in place... but you get the idea. The scans for the directions have been sent to Michelle, and with just a few directions, we should have the pattern up tomorrow. I am quite happy with her, and wanted to put her up before I crawled under the covers. I'm still thinking about embellishing her a bit. Many matryoshka dolls are quite ornate. We'll see!
(Wow... lightening is awful on the pic. I will get a better pic up tomorrow. Must sleep!)

Submitted by Kimara on Mon, 06/15/2009 - 23:02
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Babushka Doll Directions

Material:
6 pieces of different colored felt or other fabric
Embroidery floss
Pattern (3 pages)

1] Make copy of patterns.

2] Cut out fabric as follows (I used):
Color A: 1 babushka and 2 ties (light green)
Color B: 1 hair (medium brown)
Color C: 1 face (very light pink/beige)
Color D: 1 main body-this is the apron (medium green)
Color E: 2 sleeves (mirror imaged) 1 under blouse, 1 skirt and petal 2 (yellow)
Color F: 1 petal 1 and flower center (medium blue)

3] Transfer marks and embroider face.
Eyes: I used 3 strands black floss. I used a stem stitch to outline the eyes and eyelashes, and on each eye, 3 satin stitches to create the irises.
Nose: I used 3 strands black floss and a steam stitch.
Lips: I used 3 strands of red floss. I used a combination of outline, straight and satin stitches until I got the right affect.
Freckles: I used 3 strands of pink floss. I made French knots wrapping the needle only once.

NOTE: If you check out any babushka doll you will notice that the faces ARE NOT perfect… most of the time they aren’t very symmetrical! If your face doesn’t turn out “perfect” they are closer to real babushka dolls than “perfect” faces. Kinda takes the pressure off, right??!

4] Pin hair to face. Using 3 strands of matching floss, attach the hair to the face using a running stitch, along the 2 curved bang lines. You do not need to attach the top. That will be sewn later.

5] Center the face on the backside of the babushka with the face “looking out”. Pin in place. You face should be centered both up and down and sideways. Using a running stitch and 3 strands of floss, attach the face to the babushka. (I used a contrasting thread in medium green.)

6] Place the under blouse behind the main body piece. Attach using French knots and 6 strands of contrasting floss (I used yellow). NOTE: Lay out the doll so you can see where the ties will lie. You do not want to French knot under the ties, or they will not lay flat later. Only attach on the lower curve. (See picture or pattern.)

7] Using the pattern as a guide, pin arms in place over the main body. To check placement, position babushka and face on main body. The babushka should hide the top of the arms. Reposition the arms if necessary. Using 3 strands of contrasting floss (I used medium green) attach the arms to the body using a running stitch. NOTE: Do NOT sew the outside edge. This will eventually be blanket stitched to another piece of fabric.

8] Pin babushka and ties to main body. Using 3 strands of contrasting thread (I used medium green) and a running stitch, attach the babushka only along the lower edge. Then sew all around the ties. The whole top of babushka will not be sewn. This will eventually be blanket stitched to another piece of fabric.

9] Pin the skirt behind the main body. Using 6 strands of contrasting floss (I used yellow) and French knots, attach the skirt to the main body.

10] Position and attach the petal 1 to the doll using 3 strands of contrasting floss (I used yellow) and a running stitch.

11] Position petal 2 over petal 1. Do NOT attach. Place flower center over petal 2. Using 3 strands of contrasting floss, blanket stitch the flower center to the body, making sure to go through petal 2 and petal 1. (I found it easiest to go through the main body, too.)

OPTIONAL: Babushka dolls are usually quite ornate. If you’d like to embellish the doll, add embroidery now.

12] Blanket stitch the doll to fabric to finish the project. You can do this in 2 different ways depending on the look you want to achieve. You can use 3 strands of the same colored floss and blanket stitch around the entire doll or you can change floss to match the color of your fabric.

IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO MAKE MULTIPLE SIZE DOLLS: Using your printer, reduce the size of your doll pattern until you create the desired effect. How much you reduce your pattern depends on tastes and how many dolls you’d like to make. (I’ve seen as few as 4 and as many as 10) Keep reducing the main pattern, not your reductions. (For example… place your pattern in your printer. Set your printer at 90%. After you run a copy, set your printer for 80%, and so on.) Also, looking at traditional babushka dolls, faces can be very different as sizes get smaller. Designs usually get simpler as the designs get smaller. Also, you may wish to change what the doll is holding. THERE IS NO RIGHT WAY to do this. Have fun, and be creative!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.
All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 06/17/2009 - 16:26
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Babushka Doll Applique

I decided I needed a lot more "bling" to give my babuskha doll that traditional matryoshka "feel". I sorta just started embroidering and kept going! Anyway, here she is... waiting her final destination... which I haven't decided on, so she isn't sewn onto anything yet! But I am done with the directions, so if you're interested in making your own babushka doll, she's good to go!

Just a couple of FYIs. First, this doll measures 9" but you can enlarge or reduce her to meet your needs. If you'd like to make multiple dolls in decreasing size, place the original patterns in your printer and reduce at 90%, 80%, 70% etc. until you get the set you like. Also, if you look at any traditional babushka dolls, you'll notice that the paint jobs are not perfect. If your eyes are crooked, if your smile is askew... well, that's more or less traditional, so don't panic! Also, the faces on traditional matryoshka dolls become more and more simplistic as they get smaller, so follow suit when embroidering faces.

Finally, I did not include my embellishments on the pattern... since Michelle had already finished the pdf before I was done embroidering. I used 6 strands of floss, making lazy daisy flowers and French knots in the center of the flowers and as the dots on the babushka.

HINT: To get the flowers and dots placed evenly, I cut the shapes out of graph paper, decided how close together I wanted the flowers and dots, then poked holes where I wanted the embroidery to go. I then laid it over the doll, and using a sharp pencil, made small dots in the holes. I then had perfect placement for my embroidery. So, without further ado, the pattern for the Babushka Dolls. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Wed, 06/17/2009 - 21:31
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Babusha Doll Skirt

 

There are babushka dolls and then there are babushka dolls! Here's our little doll wearing a skirt her mom just made for her. The fabric is gorgeous... a Kokka babushka doll print! Michelle used our basic Elastic Gathered Skirt Directions with a few alterations. First, Fairy insisted there were pockets. Hey, I can't exist without pockets, can't expect her to either! Michelle also wanted to make it longer. She added an additional 8" of contrasting fabric to the original pieces, and then followed the rest of the directions. As for the pockets, she tells me she just "winged it". A very easy way to make pockets is to decide on the size you want for each pocket, and add an additional 1/2" seam allowance all around. (So, if you want a pocket 5" x 7", cut the fabric 6" x 8") Cut 2 pieces of fabric for each pocket. Put right sides together and using a 1/2" seam allowance, sew around leaving a 2" opening. Trim the corners, turn right side out and press. (You do not need to sew up the opening.) Position the pocket where you want it on your skirt and pin in place. Sew close to the edge around 3 edges, leaving the top open. Sew a second seam about 1/8" away from the first seam. You now have a finished pocket, securely attached!

The Elastic Gathered Skirt is all about the fabric. It is such a simple and lovely little skirt, and a wonderful showcase for the prettiest fabrics. You'll want to make a ton of this basic!

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/18/2009 - 18:24
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Eight Panel Princess Skirt and More

I've been busy, busy this week with lots of time spent at the sewing machine trying to finish up all of my summer projects before our summer trips. One that I'm totally in love with is this Eight Panel Princess Skirt made especially for Fairy. I don't think she knows how good she has it... anything she dreams up and wallah... Gammy or Mommy set off to make it for her. Anyway, she picked out the fabric, it has her mandatory pockets (this one has hidden side seam pockets) lots of twirly goodness and ruffles. I will get the pattern up sometime this week.

I have also been playing with hair accessories. Fairy is wearing a stretchy headband and Pixie is sporting a stretchy bandanna... both of which I will be sharing shortly.

And last but not least... if I find the time (I will have to make another to take photos... twist my arm ;) )... I will try and get Pixie's Tie Shoulder Dress Directions written up as well.

Submitted by Michelle on Sat, 06/20/2009 - 14:11
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Eight Panel Princess Skirt Pattern

Here is the pattern for a 8 paneled "twirly" skirt that takes the basic elastic gathered skirt and adds a little "flirt" to it! There are 8 panels that flair out at the bottom. You may choose to use 1, 2, 4 or even 8 different fabrics. For that reason we cannot give specific fabric requirements. Also, because you are using a mathematical formula for calculating the correct size, you can make the skirt a size 6 month or a women's 3X! (A note about making the skirt in women's sizes is included after the directions.) Use the instructions below to calculate the correct size and pick your fabrics. Determine fabric needs based on your selections.

Also, there are a couple of options. You can make the skirt with or without a bottom ruffle. You can also decide if you'd like to include hidden side pockets!

NOTE: Read all instructions before beginning your skirt.
 

Calculating panel sizes:
Before you begin making your skirt you will need to do some math to figure out how wide to cut your 8 panels. (BTW... The measurements we used for Fairy's skirt are in parenthesis and we will be working with two contrasting fabrics. Since we need eight panels... we are cutting 4 panels of each color.) 

Start with your hip measurement (20in) and double it (40in).

Divide this number by 8 (5in). If your number doesn't come out even like ours did, round up to the nearest 1/2 inch.

Add 1 inch (6in) for seam allowances.

Next add 2 inches (8in) for "twirliness"... (we will taper the panels later).

This final number will be the width of each panel.

To figure out the length, measure from your waist to the length you would like your finished skirt to be (18in). Add 3 inches. This will allow for seam allowance and waist band. NOTE: If you plan to add the optional ruffle... only add 1 inch (19in). We will gain a couple inches with our ruffle.

Pieces needed: (cutting instructions are given below)
8 skirt panels
3/4" wide elastic 1" smaller than your waist measurement.
Optional ruffle
Optional pockets

Cutting Instructions
Optional ruffle... you need to cut out two strips that are double your waist measurement (40in) by 6in high. If your measurement is longer than one piece of fabric you will have to sew two strips together to get the right length. Fold the strips in half length wise, right sides out and iron. I like to serge the open edge but that is optional.

Optional pockets... click here to download our basic hidden in seam pocket pattern. Cut out 4 (two facing towards the right, two facing towards the left).

Cut out eight skirt panels as calculated above. We choose to work with two fabrics and cut out 4 of each (8in X 19in).

To taper the skirt sections: Fold the panels in half lengthwise and line up the open side on your cutting board. Place your straight edge on the bottom open corner and one inch in on the top open corner. Cut with a rotary blade. When you open up the panel the sides will now be tapered in at the top.

Sew together four panels (right sides together). We used a ABAB pattern. Sew together the 4 remaining panels in the same pattern. You will now have two panels. This is when I serge my edges (optional). Iron your seams.

Line up your pockets 4 inches down from the top edge, right sides together. Sew in place. Repeat on both sides, both panels.

If you haven't already, prepare your ruffles (for more tips on how to make a ruffle click here). Line up your ruffle on the bottom edge of the panel rough edges together. Make sure your ruffle is spread out evenly. Pin in place and sew. Repeat for the second panel.

Place your front and back panels right sides together and pin. Sew both side seams going around your pockets. Make sure your ruffle seams are lined up nicely.

Fold down the waist band 2in and sew near cut edge leaving a 2in opening to insert the elastic. I like to leave the opening near a side seam. Use a safety pine to guide your elastic through the waist band. Overlap the elastic about an inch and sew together (be careful not to twist the elastic). Sew the waist band opening closed.

Flip your skirt right side out and wallah! You now have a ruffly skirt perfect for a princess.

NOTE for larger sizes...
To make longer skirts nice and full (twirly) you will want to add a few more inches to the 8 panel widths. For instance in the example one made for Fairy I added 2 extra inches to the panel width... for myself I would probably add 4 inches.

Then when you cut the taper, after you have folded the panels in half lengthwise and lined up the open side on your cutting board, you will place your straight edge on the bottom open corner like the example and one half inch in for every inch you added to the width. So if you added 4 inches to the width you would move the top point in a total of 2 inches and then make your cut.

Also, if you have added width to your panels you will want to cut your ruffle strips 2 and 1/2 times as wide as your waist measurement.

Submitted by Michelle on Mon, 06/22/2009 - 08:48
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How to Make a Ruffle

Ruffles are a fun and easy way to dress up even the most basic pattern. Some of you may have a ruffle foot that you can use on your sewing machine... check out your manual. If you want to do it by hand... which I like in small amounts... here is how we do it.

First determine the length of the edge you wish to attach the ruffle. You will want to cut your ruffle about double the finished length.

Next determine how wide you want your ruffle. Double this number and add 1 inch for seam allowance.

Cut out your ruffle strips. For longer ruffles you may need to sew several strips together.

Fold your ruffle in half length-wise, right sides out. Iron flat. You can serge the open edge if you would like.

Next run a very loose (I set my machine to widest stitch setting) running stitch about 1/2" from the open edge. For a wide ruffle you may want to add a second running stitch 1/8 of an inch away from the first. Be sure both are sewn with the same side up. (Don't forget to re-set your stitch width before attaching your ruffle to your item!)

Next, hold on to the bobbin thread/s and gently pull. Your fabric should start to gather. Continue gently pulling. (If you thread breaks you will need to add another gathering stitch.) Spread out the gathers evenly until the ruffle matches the length of the edge you will be attaching it to.

Carefully pin the ruffle in place (upside down against the right side). Once it is sew in place you can remove the loose running stitches if it is visible on the right side of your garment.

Have fun adding ruffles!

Submitted by Michelle on Tue, 06/23/2009 - 09:32
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Cup-Pa-Cake Skirt

The Eight Panel Princess Skirt Directions are now ready. You can find them in Free Patterns Section.

I made this one in some sweet Kaufman Confections fabric that Fairy just had to have the last time we were at Joann's. Since they were not on sale, Gammy only got 1/2" yard of each but Pixie was devastated when she saw the fabric on the cutting table and learned that it was intended for Fairy (she has been asking for her own "CupPaCake"). So we will be getting more. This skirt is intended for Fairy... hence the super long length on Pixie. But Fairy is appropriately at Princess Camp atm (dance school) and Pixie was more than happy to model it for us this morning.

Submitted by Michelle on Tue, 06/23/2009 - 10:09
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Handkerchief Bandanna


The directions below are for a plain bandanna, but options are given for making the handkerchief bandanna featured above.

A note about sizing: We found using the 16" square works for children and adults, but you'll need to change the elastic size and band size. To get a good fit, using a tape measure, measure your head where the bandanna will lie. To cut your elastic take your measurement, minus 16. (Example: Fairy's head was 19 inches, so 19 - 16 = 3. I cut the elastic 3". My head is 22 inches, so 22 - 16 = 6. I cut elastic for me 6". For the band that goes under the bandanna: the height with always be 4" but to determine the length, add 3 inches to the elastic size. (Example: Fairy's elastic was 3" so I cut the band 4" x 6". (3 + 3). My elastic was 6 inches so I cut the band 4" x 9" (6 + 3)

Materials to make Fairy's bandanna: (19" head) See note above for sizing.

16” fabric square
4” x 6” fabric
1/2" elastic to size
1” Lace (optional)
embroidery floss (optional)
12" of 1/4" grosgrain ribbon (optional)
lavender bunch embroidery pattern (optional) (Directions for the Bullion Stitch used in this embroidery pattern are available HERE.)

1] Cut out 1 piece of fabric 16” x 16” and 1 piece 4” x 6”.

2] If you want to embellish your scarf do so before you sew it together. This will hide all your work on the inside. Ideas for embellishments are embroidery, appliques, rick-rack, beads, etc. NOTE: When placing embellishments remember you will be sewing the scarf together using a 1/2" seam. When placing designs, taking into account the loss of fabric due to the seam. I included the bunch of lavender embroidery I did on my scarf. Also, the scarf will be folded in half diagonally, with half the triangle being the front, and half being the backside. Keep your design on the front triangle. (I will comment later on making the bandanna reversible.)

3] Optional lace. If you would like to sew lace into your seam, begin pinning the lace to 2 sides of the square that will be the front of your scarf. Pin the lace along the edge. REMEMBER, there will be a 1/2" seam. You will lose 1/2" of the lace. Your lace must be wide enough to be able to “hide” 1/2" in the seam.

When you get to the corner, you need to make a slight curve while pinning on the lace. I found I placed a lot of pins so the lace laid flat. You do not need to take the lace all the way to the point but remember, there is a 1/2" seam, so make sure your lace stays within the seams so it will be caught when sewing the seam.

4] Fold the bandanna diagonally with right sides together. Pin in place. Sew using a 1/2" seam.

Optional lace. If you are sewing a piece of lace on, fold the bandanna diagonally with right sides together. You will be covering the lace you pinned on. Pin in place. Sew until you are within 1” of the corner. Instead of sewing a right angle, sew a slight curve making sure the lace edge below has been caught. Continue down the other seam.

5] Cut off 2” from either end of the long diagonal fold.

6] Turn the scarf right side out and press.

Optional lace. If you added lace, there are a ton of pins on the inside holding the lace in place. I found I was able to undo the pins before turning the scarf, and let them slip out of an open end. It would be very hard to turn the scarf if you leave the pins in!

7] Turn each unfinished edge 1/2" to the inside of the scarf and press.

Optional lace. Make sure the unfinished edge of the lace is tucked inside. You may need to fold it over a bit to make sure it is neatly tucked inside so it will be caught in the seam when you attach the headband.

8] To make the headband, fold the right sides of the 4” x 6” together, creating a 2” x 6” rectangle. Sew a 1/2" seam along the unfinished 6” side. Turn and press.

9] Cut the elastic a little longer than you think you need. Pull it through the inside of the headband and attach at either end with safety pins. This will tucked into the scarf 1/2”. To check for sizing, pin this to the bandanna overlapping the scarf by 1/2". Try it on for size. Shorten the elastic until you have a good fit.

10] Slide the ends of the headband into the scarf 1/2" and pin in place. Sew the headband on 1/4" from the turned up fold making sure you are sewing through the front, headband and back of the scarf.

11] Optional: If you embroidered the lavender bunch, make a small bow out of the grosgrain ribbon and tack in on to the shafts of the lavender. You should be able to tack it on so your stitches only go through the top layer and are not visible on the back of the bandanna. 

Slide it on and go have fun!

Directions for making a REVERSIBLE bandanna.
If you would like to use 2 different fabrics and make your bandanna reversible, it is easy to do! Start by cutting out 2 right triangles, with 16 1/2" sides. (Basically, cut a 16 1/2" square in half diagonally. (It needs to be 1/2" bigger because you will be sewing it together along the diagonal.) Make the headscarf as explained above, embroidering or adding lace to one side. When step 4 instructs you fold the square in half diagonally, instead, you will pin the 2 separate triangles together with right sides touching. Sew all the way around the 3 sides, using a 1/2" seam allowance. Proceed with step 5.

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/25/2009 - 08:10
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Handkerchief Bandanna


What could be more summery than lounging on your favorite deck chair with your hair pulled back in a bandanna? Bandannas are a mainstay around here. Whether it is an old fashioned bandanna quickly tied around your head, a reversible bandanna meant to match multiple outfits, or the delicate bandanna featured above, bandannas are both functional and fun!


We like to add covered elastic to the back of our bandannas. This makes it easier for little kids to put on, and stops that pesky hair pulling at the base of your nape! In our FREE Open Patterns we are sharing the directions for making your own bandanna in a child and adult size. Directions are given for the handkerchief bandanna because it is the most difficult, but after you master the basics... which are easy peasy... you'll have a bandanna to match all your outfits! This pattern also includes the instructions for the lavender bunch embroidery, but any embroidery pattern would work just fine. Whether you embellish your bandannas or leave them plain, you'll be singing their praises before long. Check out our pattern for the Kerchief Bandanna. Enjoy! 

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/25/2009 - 14:47
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Bullion Stitch


The bullion stitch is a beautiful stitch which is perfect for making lavender and wheat. It is sometimes called a caterpillar or worm stitch, and it has a great deal of versatility. The stitch can be made straight as in the lavender above, or you can loop it around itself to make circles and semi circles. For the lavender we wrap thread around a needle 6 times, but you can wrap it as many as 12 times to make longer "worms". This stitch can be tricky at first, but practice will make you a pro in no time. As since it is such a unique stitch, I think it's well worth the effort!

1] Bring the needle up through the fabric where you want the bullion stitch to attach to.

2] Poke the needle through the fabric about 1/4" away from where you came up. (Do not pull your needle all the way through.) This should be placed where you want the stitch to end. Bring your needle up through your original hole. Again, leave your needle woven in the fabric.

3] Wrap your thread around the needle 6 times. Keep it tight enough so it doesn't slip around on the needle, but not so tight you cannot slide the threads. You will get the feel for it after a few stitches!

4] Hold the 6 wraps against your work the thumb of one hand, while you gently pull the needle through the wraps and the hole it is in. This is the hardest part of the stitch and something you'll get more comfortable with after some practice. Gently work the thread until the wraps are laying flat on your fabric.

5] Pass the needle through the fabric close to the end of of bullion stitch. Your needle and thread will now be on the backside of your work, ready for the next stitch.
 

Submitted by Kimara on Thu, 06/25/2009 - 15:27
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Pixie Had to Share

Fresh off my sewing table, Pixie had to share her Cupcake Outfit. She insisted I took photos of her once she had it on. Who am I to say no?

Obviously this is not another Eight Panel Skirt. After the first year of having two girls I quickly realized that I did not like dressing them in matching outfits. Coordinating, yes. Matching, no. Poor Pixie would outgrow her dress only to fit into Fairy's and was seemingly always in the same outfit. So instead of the skirt, she got a ruffled shirt and capri pants modified from the Simplicity Pattern 9786.

This is a super easy pattern that I have made in the past (check out this link to see Fairy wearing the top). I added a ruffle to the bottom of the shirt pattern. Then for the pants, I cut out a size 2 but trimmed the length of the pant legs at the 1/2 size hem line and then of course I added ruffles to make the pants capri length.

I have a very happy Pixie now!


Hey Gammy.... How about some matching barrettes?! ;)

Submitted by Michelle on Sun, 06/28/2009 - 09:41
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Yo Yo Contour Clip Barrettes

Quick, easy and fun to make, these yo yo contour clip barrettes will become a favorite.

Materials:
Scraps of light weight fabric
3/4" Lace – 5 “
Contour clip barrettes
3/4" buttons
Cotton Perle or 6 strands of embroidery floss
Sewing thread
Optional – hot glue

1] To cut out circles for yo yos, determine the finished size of the yo yo you want, double it, then add 1/2”. For these barrettes, I wanted the yoyo to have a 2 ½” diameter, so I cut my circles 5 1/2". (2 1/2" x 2 = 5", then 5" + 1/2" = 5 1/2".)

2] Working from the wrong side of the fabric, create a seam allowance around the circle by folding the front of the fabric toward the back about 1/4". Double your sewing thread and use a close running stitch to sew down the seam allowance all around the circle.


3] When you get all the way around the circle, gather your running stitch as tight as the material will allow, and tack it so the gathers cannot come undone. Flatten the yo yo so the gather is in the middle. You have now completed 1 yo yo.

4] Sew a running stitch close to the unfinished edge of the lace. Gather the running stitch as tight as the lace will allow, and tack it so the gathers cannot come undone. Sew the 2 raw edges of the lace together to complete the circle.

5] Lay the lace circle on top of the front (the gathered side) of the yo yo. Slip stitch the lace to the yo yo matching the centers.

6] Using Cotton Perle or 6 strands of embroidery floss, sew the button to the middle of the yo yo.

7] Attach the contour clip to the back side of the yo yo with slip stitches or you may hot glue it in place.


Simple as that!

Note about patterns: We are sharing patterns we have designed and made for our own children, families and friends. Every effort is made to share information in a clear and accurate manner. We offer preemptive apologies for any mistakes that may be made. Please let us know via comments or emails if you stumble upon a mistake or if you encounter directions that leave you scratching your head! We will rectify the situation as soon as humanly possible!

http://www.weefolkart.com
Copyright © Wee Folk Art 2008 - 2009. All rights reserved.

All photos, text and patterns are copyright protected. You may not copy, reproduce or redistribute any material found on WeeFolkArt.com without written permission. Wee Folk Art retains all rights.
 

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 06/30/2009 - 08:16
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Yo Yo Contour Clip Barrettes

The girls needed matching barrettes for their new outfits, so of course I got right on it! Although they haven't seen them yet, I'm sure they are going to love them. I made these for Pixie, using the cherry print in her ruffle. I decide to use a yo yo style with lace to mimic the ruffles in her outfit. For Fairy I plan to make a set of our Contour Clip Barrettes with the cupcake applique found in the pattern.

The Yo Yo barrettes were totally fun to make and easy. The set took me only half an hour to make. Think of the possibilities. An afternoon of barrette making would produce a bushel of barrettes! Think summer birthday parties. What a great gift, right?

Our pattern for the Yo Yo Contour Clip Barrettes is available HERE or in our FREE Open Pattern section. Enjoy!

Submitted by Kimara on Tue, 06/30/2009 - 08:44
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